is a clay bar a clay bar?

[cwhit23]

I've used mothers and meguirs, but when it comes to others, like wolfgang, pinnacle, etc. is there really much difference in these?

 

[Seer]

No, a clay bar is not a clay bar.

Some fall apart easier than others. Some have more grit/bite than others too.

The more agressive claybars will almost always marr the paint and require a rebuff. I usually use them on cars that are in bad condition and I know I will be buffing.

The light and agressive bars from detailedimage are quite nice for the money. Make sure you buy a few containers to store them in as well, which they also sell. Claybar can be used a few times.

 

[cwhit23]

No, a clay bar is not a clay bar.

Some fall apart easier than others. Some have more grit/bite than others too.

The more agressive claybars will almost always marr the paint and require a rebuff. I usually use them on cars that are in bad condition and I know I will be buffing.

The light and agressive bars from detailedimage are quite nice for the money. Make sure you buy a few containers to store them in as well, which they also sell. Claybar can be used a few times.

I figured there was some differences in grit but from what you get at the local auto shops, there's pretty much , mothers, and meguiers. my truck is in need of it and I was curious about some other options. I'll check out detailedimage and see whats available. Thanks!

 

[Seer]

I figured there was some differences in grit but from what you get at the local auto shops, there's pretty much , mothers, and meguiers. my truck is in need of it and I was curious about some other options. I'll check out detailedimage and see whats available. Thanks!

a lot of the bars you buy over the counter are less than a light claybar on the boutique market. They'll leave a lot of grime behind. Now like I said before a more agressive bar will marr your paint.

 

[cwhit23]

I guess they sale them less than light as to avoid people buying them and scuffing up their paint. Then blaming them.. To be on the safe side I assume.
Im looking at a light bar, for I am still afraid to do buffing. I'm afraid I'll burn the corners.

 

[Seer]

I guess they sale them less than light as to avoid people buying them and scuffing up their paint. Then blaming them.. To be on the safe side I assume.
Im looking at a light bar, for I am still afraid to do buffing. I'm afraid I'll burn the corners.

if you use a dual action, like a porter cable you won't burn the corners. Not a chance unless you leave the buffer on the same spot for a few minutes with a cutting pad while you go for a sandwich

 

[cwhit23]

lol I like those odds. I've never used a buffer so I wouldn't even know where to start, I usually clay, seal, wax. Would I add a different compound in while buffing? before sealing? then I could still use the buffer to apply the sealer and wax too correct.?

 

[Seer]

lol I like those odds. I've never used a buffer so I wouldn't even know where to start, I usually clay, seal, wax. Would I add a different compound in while buffing? before sealing? then I could still use the buffer to apply the sealer and wax too correct.?

All depends. When you buff the clear coat, you are stripping all sealant and wax.

Dual Actions and Rotaries use foam pads with varying levels of cut. Harsh to least (On the standard Lake Country Color Scale):

Purple Foam Wool (heavy cut)
Yellow Cutting (cut)
Orange Compounding (Compound, most commonly used for the first pass on swirl removal)
White Polishing (usually used for one step or fixing marring from compounding)
Green Light Cutting (Light cut, see above)
Grey Finishing (Finishing/jeweling/application of sealants and glazes)
Blue Applicator (see above)
Red Applicator (see above)
Gold Jeweling (see above)

Then there are typically different kinds of polishes you use with the varying pads.

Heavy Cut, Medium Cut/Compound, Light Cut/Finishing.

If you use a Heavy Cut or a Med/Compound, you will need to go back over it with a Light Cut/Finishing combo. Some newer polishes are variable cut depending on the pad you use now too.

You can use a buffer with a grey, blue, red or gold pad to apply the sealant on speed 1, same goes with liquid waxes and glazes.

Polishes, Compounds etc use a higher speed and a cutting/compounding/polishing pad.

Start with least agressive combo, if the defect is still there step it up to the next combo. Then finish it off with your polishing/finishing combo.