Keep the Dual or install the Shaker 500?

Rick Simons

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Looking for a little info. on the Shaker 500 sound system. According to the window sticker which I just found last night, my car (06 GT) came with the Shaker 500 system. It currently has a Dual head unit, which was in it when I bought the car. This unit has a lot features (Bluetooth, USB, camera-ready, etc.), but it just doesn't sound good, not like one would think it should; the bass is pretty weak. I was thinking of buying a stock Shaker 500 head unit and installing that. I can get one from the local salvage yard for $55, probably less with a little negotiation. From what I've read so far there is supposed to be an amp inside each kick panel for the door subwoofers; I'll have to check on this. Any suggestions for making the Dual unit (I don't know what the model # is) sound better and/or pros/cons of putting the stock head unit back in are welcome; thanks.
 

LikeabossTM

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Speakers are a better investment.
The stock speakers are pretty lousy.
Agreed, if you've already got an aftermarket head unit and it's decent (maybe Google the model), then you're ahead of the game from the mediocre stock head unit.

Phase two would be lousy stock speakers replacement, even if you can only afford a second hand deal.
 

BottleRocket

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My '08 has the Shaker 500 unit and it sounds pretty good. It actually puts out enough power to destroy the stock door speakers which I'm currently planning to replace. I didn't know about the amps in the kick panels. If you can pick one up that inexpensively I would go for it. Mine has the 10 CD changer which I really like.
 

Rick Simons

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My '08 has the Shaker 500 unit and it sounds pretty good. It actually puts out enough power to destroy the stock door speakers which I'm currently planning to replace. I didn't know about the amps in the kick panels. If you can pick one up that inexpensively I would go for it. Mine has the 10 CD changer which I really like.
Where is the CD changer located?
 

dark steed

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My '08 has the Shaker 500 unit and it sounds pretty good. It actually puts out enough power to destroy the stock door speakers which I'm currently planning to replace. I didn't know about the amps in the kick panels. If you can pick one up that inexpensively I would go for it. Mine has the 10 CD changer which I really like.

I’m pretty sure that’s a 6-disc, my ‘07 Shaker 500 is only 6 as I recall.
Also, if you are referring to the door speakers rattling, there is a TSB for that. It’s the window switches vibrating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mach2burnout

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I’m pretty sure that’s a 6-disc, my ‘07 Shaker 500 is only 6 as I recall.
Also, if you are referring to the door speakers rattling, there is a TSB for that. It’s the window switches vibrating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes you are correct. It’s a 6 disc.


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Ret

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The door on the passenger side of my car was rattling and when I had the new sound system installed I told them to inspect the speakers and replace if needed. Someone had dropped a quarter in somehow, or maybe at the factory during the build. Anyway, no rattle since removing the quarter.
 

Bullitt 4641

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I wouldn't consider myself an "audiophile" , although I have attended several audio and amplification classes over the last couple decades, so accept that for what it's worth/or not. I am one however who is rarely happy with stock, especially when it comes to music reproduction.

I replaced my Shaker 500 with a Pioneer head unit, Kicker door subs, and Infinity, 2-way, 6x8's; and have been extremely happy. While I was at it, I built a couple shallow boxes to hang/mount in the trunk and put a pair of low-profile 8", Kicker subs behind a 500 watt amp.

You are correct about the door subs being individually powered - there is an amp for each, above the driver's foot-well. They are susceptible to broken solder-joints and can cause intermittent or total loss of door-bass. I repaired mine and they've been thumping right along, ever since. This might be the cause of your poor sound; however Dual is not known to be a high-quality product.

I personally tend to stick with Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, and Blaupunkt, while staying clear of Dual, Boss, and several other "newer" brands (just my $.02).

Sonicelectronix is a great site for researching products, capabilities and availability and I use Amazon to get (for the most part) realistic, end-user reviews, then purchase wherever the price is right.
 

mustanger

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I agree with Bullitt 4641. I would try a brand other than Dual. Years ago, I first upgraded my speakers and noticed an improvement, but not as much as I expected. I later installed a Kenwood and haven't looked back. I was amazed in how much of a difference the Kenwood made.
 
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Rick Simons

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I wouldn't consider myself an "audiophile" , although I have attended several audio and amplification classes over the last couple decades, so accept that for what it's worth/or not. I am one however who is rarely happy with stock, especially when it comes to music reproduction.

I replaced my Shaker 500 with a Pioneer head unit, Kicker door subs, and Infinity, 2-way, 6x8's; and have been extremely happy. While I was at it, I built a couple shallow boxes to hang/mount in the trunk and put a pair of low-profile 8", Kicker subs behind a 500 watt amp.

You are correct about the door subs being individually powered - there is an amp for each, above the driver's foot-well. They are susceptible to broken solder-joints and can cause intermittent or total loss of door-bass. I repaired mine and they've been thumping right along, ever since. This might be the cause of your poor sound; however Dual is not known to be a high-quality product.

I personally tend to stick with Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, and Blaupunkt, while staying clear of Dual, Boss, and several other "newer" brands (just my $.02).

Sonicelectronix is a great site for researching products, capabilities and availability and I use Amazon to get (for the most part) realistic, end-user reviews, then purchase wherever the price is right.
Bullitt 4641, where do the solder joins usually fail? Obviously I want to address that potential issue before moving on. This weekend, in my seemingly never-ending quest to find the source of an elusive vibration (there's another post for this), My daughter was riding with me and she was certain the noise was coming from behind the radio/climate control panel. I pulled the console apart and removed the Dual head unit to have a look at the wiring. It looks like the installer used a pigtail with the Ford connectors on one end and loose wires on the other end which were butt-spliced to the wires coming out of the Dual. Looking at the Ford electrical schematic it looks as though the amps in the driver's side kick panel that drive the door sub-woofers would still be connected, but it sure doesn't sound like they're doing much of anything in the way of bass. I still need to check wire 829 (Subwoofer power supply), I'll do that tonight. There is also a blue wire coming out of the Dual unit labeled PREAMP; wondering if this needs to be connected to enable the subwoofer amps?
I also did some price checking on this unit and it is indeed on the lower scale. I think a better head unit is definitely in this car's future.
A little off-topic, but I did find that the wiring connectors were all sitting on the bare steel floor tunnel (one possible source of the vibration) and there is also a loose a/c duct.
upload_2021-6-14_9-32-36.pngupload_2021-6-14_9-32-36.jpeg
 

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