I have been chasing this bitch ass gremlin of a problem for 2+ years and I just cant seem to figure it all out.
Ever since my motor swap (coincidentally the 2.4 KB to the 2.6H KB as well) I have been battling extremely high IAT temperatures. Temperatures that make me think? Is there even an intercooler on this damed car.
For some background, Stock motor, with a KB 2.4 at 10psi, stock KB coolant tank, Lightning Intercooler Pump, and a gords ford performance heat exchanger. I never saw over 118 degree IAT temperatures even after 3 back to back to back Dyno runs with no cooldown. Temperatures were always rock solid and i just never had a single issue. Car coolant temps would reach about 190 after a quarter mile pass TOPS even with the heat outside.
Since then i have had a couple of different setups:
1a. 6 gallon tank in the trunk, meziere remote water pump, gords HE. Had the lines gonig from tank to Intercooler, to hE back to tank, so when running ice, the coldest fluid would goto the SC first.
1b. Rerouted hoses to a factory setup, tank to HE to SC
1c. Moved pump lower than tank to combat starvation issues
2. 6 gallon insulated trunk tank, insulated hoses, Killer Chiller, Meziere remote water pump
3. Canton 1 gallon insulated tank, insulated lines, Killer Chiller, FRPP Lightning pump, Industrial 12 in place of R134a for a colder charge.
***All temps are IAT temps***
With setup 1a with no ice, I would see temps between 130-150 all the time on the street. Track temps would see over 190 and even saw over 200 degrees at a few points at the end of a quarter mile. Adding Ice would get my starting temps at the line to around 75-79 degrees but at the end of a run, I would still see 150-170. Every now and then the water pump would cavitate itself and i would have to bleed it.
1b got the street temps down into the 120-140 range so a bit of improvement with the HE first but track temps stayed about the same. Pump would still cavitate from time to time forcing me to bleed it.
1c completely stopped the cavitation issues but temperatures on the street and the track did not improve in the slightest
Setup 2 would regularly see my street temps im the low 100-120 range on the street which was a nice improvement so far in that area, however the track temps were netting me 135-155 at the end of a pass.
Joe at Killer chiller recommended going with a much smaller tank, citing 2-3 gallons as the optimum fluid capacity so out came all that crap and we moved into setup 3
The entire system holds about 2 gallons of fluid when you consider the lines, intercooler and tank, perhaps jsut under 2 gallons. All of the lines are insulated to protect them and the coolant in them from engine heat.
When I start the car and idle for about 2-3 minutes I see coolant temps around 35-40 degrees in the tank. Thats whats returning from the blower before it hits the killer chiller. Joe at KC states the fluid coming out of the KC is aproximately 15 degrees colder than the tank which means I am pumping 20-25 degree coolant through the blower at idle. Intake air temps are generally around 90-100 degrees. After completing the burnout i see about 120 degrees o nthe temps, and they do start to fall a bit as i stage and usually settle around 112-118 degrees. By the end of my quarter mile runs i am constantly seeing 150+ and even saw 170+ twice. So i drain the coolant as low as i can go in the tank, and cram an entire bag of ice in there to assist. I see the exact same temperatures, not one iota of improvement
It is as if the intercooler is doing absolutely nothing. as if it wasn't even there. Now when i was swapping the motor i had noticed that it was covered in oi land was dark in appearance when it should be shiny aluminum so i mixed up a simple green solution and let it sit for days and drained it. Then for good measure i sprayed the shit out of it with brake cleaner till it was shiny again, like new. I figured this had to help big time but nothing once again. Temps are skyrocketing and soaring like a fucking bird.
I pulled the IAT sensor thinking it might be dirty or covered in oil after seeing the intercooler and cleaned it. Didnt help. I figured the sensor might be bad but if i let the car sit overnight, then start it in the morning it reads ambient temp so i know the sensor itself is working.
This leads me to believe it is heatsoak on the sensor, or KB just doesn't have it in a good spot, or, although i just cant fathom how, the intercooler isn't doing its job or is just shit. Someone also suggested that the pump could be slowing the flow of the fluid when under load, but i don't know how to confirm or test this. I did not see the results others saw when i had the ice tank in the trunk, no do i see similar results compared to the people with killer chillers. I am out of friggen ideas at this point and don't know where to turn. Granted i had the 2.4 at 10psi and the 2.6H at 15psi but that really cant make 70-80 degree difference in IAT, especially when i was running ice or using the KC.
I am going to buy a new sensor since they are so cheap anyway, but i have serious reservations of that fixing the issue. I am open to ANY suggestions at this point.
I did finally get a gauge to monitor water temps for the S/C system and i am going to plumb it into the return line coming out of the S/C and going into the tank to see just how hot (or cold) the fluid is getting (or remaining)
please help....anyone
Ever since my motor swap (coincidentally the 2.4 KB to the 2.6H KB as well) I have been battling extremely high IAT temperatures. Temperatures that make me think? Is there even an intercooler on this damed car.
For some background, Stock motor, with a KB 2.4 at 10psi, stock KB coolant tank, Lightning Intercooler Pump, and a gords ford performance heat exchanger. I never saw over 118 degree IAT temperatures even after 3 back to back to back Dyno runs with no cooldown. Temperatures were always rock solid and i just never had a single issue. Car coolant temps would reach about 190 after a quarter mile pass TOPS even with the heat outside.
Since then i have had a couple of different setups:
1a. 6 gallon tank in the trunk, meziere remote water pump, gords HE. Had the lines gonig from tank to Intercooler, to hE back to tank, so when running ice, the coldest fluid would goto the SC first.
1b. Rerouted hoses to a factory setup, tank to HE to SC
1c. Moved pump lower than tank to combat starvation issues
2. 6 gallon insulated trunk tank, insulated hoses, Killer Chiller, Meziere remote water pump
3. Canton 1 gallon insulated tank, insulated lines, Killer Chiller, FRPP Lightning pump, Industrial 12 in place of R134a for a colder charge.
***All temps are IAT temps***
With setup 1a with no ice, I would see temps between 130-150 all the time on the street. Track temps would see over 190 and even saw over 200 degrees at a few points at the end of a quarter mile. Adding Ice would get my starting temps at the line to around 75-79 degrees but at the end of a run, I would still see 150-170. Every now and then the water pump would cavitate itself and i would have to bleed it.
1b got the street temps down into the 120-140 range so a bit of improvement with the HE first but track temps stayed about the same. Pump would still cavitate from time to time forcing me to bleed it.
1c completely stopped the cavitation issues but temperatures on the street and the track did not improve in the slightest
Setup 2 would regularly see my street temps im the low 100-120 range on the street which was a nice improvement so far in that area, however the track temps were netting me 135-155 at the end of a pass.
Joe at Killer chiller recommended going with a much smaller tank, citing 2-3 gallons as the optimum fluid capacity so out came all that crap and we moved into setup 3
The entire system holds about 2 gallons of fluid when you consider the lines, intercooler and tank, perhaps jsut under 2 gallons. All of the lines are insulated to protect them and the coolant in them from engine heat.
When I start the car and idle for about 2-3 minutes I see coolant temps around 35-40 degrees in the tank. Thats whats returning from the blower before it hits the killer chiller. Joe at KC states the fluid coming out of the KC is aproximately 15 degrees colder than the tank which means I am pumping 20-25 degree coolant through the blower at idle. Intake air temps are generally around 90-100 degrees. After completing the burnout i see about 120 degrees o nthe temps, and they do start to fall a bit as i stage and usually settle around 112-118 degrees. By the end of my quarter mile runs i am constantly seeing 150+ and even saw 170+ twice. So i drain the coolant as low as i can go in the tank, and cram an entire bag of ice in there to assist. I see the exact same temperatures, not one iota of improvement
It is as if the intercooler is doing absolutely nothing. as if it wasn't even there. Now when i was swapping the motor i had noticed that it was covered in oi land was dark in appearance when it should be shiny aluminum so i mixed up a simple green solution and let it sit for days and drained it. Then for good measure i sprayed the shit out of it with brake cleaner till it was shiny again, like new. I figured this had to help big time but nothing once again. Temps are skyrocketing and soaring like a fucking bird.
I pulled the IAT sensor thinking it might be dirty or covered in oil after seeing the intercooler and cleaned it. Didnt help. I figured the sensor might be bad but if i let the car sit overnight, then start it in the morning it reads ambient temp so i know the sensor itself is working.
This leads me to believe it is heatsoak on the sensor, or KB just doesn't have it in a good spot, or, although i just cant fathom how, the intercooler isn't doing its job or is just shit. Someone also suggested that the pump could be slowing the flow of the fluid when under load, but i don't know how to confirm or test this. I did not see the results others saw when i had the ice tank in the trunk, no do i see similar results compared to the people with killer chillers. I am out of friggen ideas at this point and don't know where to turn. Granted i had the 2.4 at 10psi and the 2.6H at 15psi but that really cant make 70-80 degree difference in IAT, especially when i was running ice or using the KC.
I am going to buy a new sensor since they are so cheap anyway, but i have serious reservations of that fixing the issue. I am open to ANY suggestions at this point.
I did finally get a gauge to monitor water temps for the S/C system and i am going to plumb it into the return line coming out of the S/C and going into the tank to see just how hot (or cold) the fluid is getting (or remaining)
please help....anyone
