mods vs miles

[Docktour Z]

So my car just turned over 100k miles and I still want to add power (450rwhp) while maintaining reliability. My car is starting to have slight issues including SJB going wild occasionally, clutch/rear-end needing to be refreshed, suspension needs attention, and other general weaker spots. I owe nothing on the car now and am curious on if I should save up the money to add to this car or look at trading it in while it still has value.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Trade

 

[Wes06]

shut up darren. hah

 

[Weou09]

A lot of factors that you failed to hit on. Budget being the major one.

 

[Docktour Z]

Well my payment was $330.00 which is no problem. I do have some debt ($7k from school) I want to finish clearing before I make this decision. Putting the money aside isn't my concern for either avenue if I choose to keep the '07 vs a '13 or '14. Putting $10,000+ into a car barely worth $10,000 seemed counter-intuitive. I am unsure if adding a power-adder at 100,000 miles is wise as it would stress and fail any weak-links that haven't surfaced.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Depends on if you have an emotional attachment to the car. If you do mod it and dont worry about what it cost. If you dont, trade that shit in.

 

[W3bb3r04]

The main question is do you have any attachment to the car? Having a paid off car definitely helps in making the decision to trade or not. In my opinion if you didn't have the current issues you mentioned it would be a no brainer (to keep and mod). As long as you keep the parts you pull off the car and buy the power adder used or for a good deal, you should have no issues in parting it out if/when you decide to get rid of it.

 

[cm581978]

Keep it and save money

 

[Docktour Z]

Keep it and save money

That's what I am thinking vs executing the trade. I am finally making headway with my 401(k) and was thinking an additional $300-400 per month towards my debt would help immensely.

The main question is do you have any attachment to the car? Having a paid off car definitely helps in making the decision to trade or not. In my opinion if you didn't have the current issues you mentioned it would be a no brainer (to keep and mod). As long as you keep the parts you pull off the car and buy the power adder used or for a good deal, you should have no issues in parting it out if/when you decide to get rid of it.

Yeah exactly, these issues are making me question if I should keep the car or are they just going to come in bigger numbers?

For instance today I found another leak into the vehicle after washing it. The drivers side carpet was wet and I looked into the foot-well to notice the clutch pedal was actually rusting because of the water dripping down in.

 

[weather man]

If you can do most of your own wrenching, become a used parts hawk, cheaper to keep. If you don't want to wrench, trade her off.

 

[702GT]

People put $15-20k into fox mustangs still. It's a personal choice. Do you like what you have or do you want the latest 'n greatest?

 

[marcspaz]

This is just my opinion after doing 3 motor builds in 70,000 miles a 2007 S197 GT....

You are going to need between $7k and $10K for a good blower and installation. If you are going to "try" to boost a 2007 with 100k on it to 450 at the wheels, be sure you have at least $10k put aside for your replacement motor. So, you basically need to put $20k aside for the job. It will pop anywhere between the first pull on the dyno to tune it and God knows when. I doubt you would get another 20k out of it. It will be a ticking time bomb and you won't know what the timer is set for.

If you want to keep the car and not toast the motor... fresh rings, crank and connecting rod bearings (and a full gasket kit), valve springs/followers/lifters/retainers, VCT lockouts, fresh oil pump, fresh fuel pumps (plural), a new thermostat.

If you have a TR3650, you need to replace the pilot bearing and upgrade the clutch... I like Spec 3+. If you have the 5R55 or 5R55s, you are going to need a new stall converter, have the bands and filter replaced... minimum. Maybe a new pump too. I would personally blow another $5k on a built trans instead of the cheap rebuild... figured that out after blowing out 4 stock transmissions (2 sticks and 2 autos) on on 400 RWHP and 365 RWTQ... in that same 70k miles.

If you do all that correctly, you can boost it to 475rwhp and likely get another 100k out of it.

Or you can sell it, use the money from the sale and the $20k-$25k you would spend for mods on the 07 and buy a 2014 GT instead. Put a turbo on it. Make 575-600 at the wheels instead of 450... and have some change left over for a week long trip to Mustang Week to show it off.

Again, just my opinion.

 

[Bingo]

Such a fatalistic mindset. You will not blow your engine three times unless your builder and/or tuner is incompetent, or if you race it every day. Your trans will not blow up four times unless you are a sadistic bastard when you are driving. If you're gonna build it, do it once and do it right. Personally, my 3V isn't going anywhere unless it gets totalled. I've had it since new, no payments, and I'm attached to it. It's really your call, and yours only to make.

 

[marcspaz]

I didn't say I blew my motor 3 times in 70k miles. I said I rebuilt it. And yes, I raced 1/8 and/or 1/4 mile drags 2 or 3 days a week 3 seasons a year for 3+ years with that car up and down the east coast. I did blow 4 stock transmission though. Sticky tires and 30-40 hard launches a week at my power level tore those poor things to shit.

I was stressing that I am speaking from experience is all.

I hope you don't think boosting a 100K engine to 150% of what it was engineered to run at is a good idea?

Edit: I would trust it if you do the refresh I mentioned, if you turn your own wrench, which most people can't do that bottom-end work. I think its too expensive to have the work done. I agree with the do it once, do it right statement, which is the point behind the refresh items I listed.

Like Bingo said, its your choice. I'm just talking about what I would do.

 

[Weou09]

It's a gamble. Some of us have gotten away with murder and others haven't. I raced 1 season at 2 different tracks. And i had zero problems.

 

[Bingo]

I didn't say I blew my motor 3 times in 70k miles. I said I rebuilt it. And yes, I raced 1/8 and/or 1/4 mile drags 2 or 3 days a week 3 seasons a year for 3+ years with that car up and down the east coast. I did blow 4 stock transmission though. Sticky tires and 30-40 hard launches a week at my power level tore those poor things to shit.

I was stressing that I am speaking from experience is all.

I hope you don't think boosting a 100K engine to 150% of what it was engineered to run at is a good idea?

Edit: I would trust it if you do the refresh I mentioned, if you turn your own wrench, which most people can't do that bottom-end work. I think its too expensive to have the work done. I agree with the do it once, do it right statement, which is the point behind the refresh items I listed.

Like Bingo said, its your choice. I'm just talking about what I would do.

Understood. I just think it all comes down to preference of platform...once you outlay the cost for a built drivetrain, the power potential is essentially same. It's probably a wash between trading in and buying a '13+ and building what he's got.

 

[marcspaz]

I hear you. Makes sense. If you like the car, that is what's important.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Trade

 

[thump_rrr]

If you have 10K to spend and if you think you can get 10K for yours you have 2 options.

Trade up to a newer model coyote which will still be stockish or checkout the market here on S197 and see if there are any built cars you can buy.

Whenever I look I see built cars that would cost me less than my engine build.

 

[Boss281]

I just put a new clutch and flywheel, FRPP suspension, axleback, driveshaft, brake rotors and pads, replaced all smoked lenses with OEM (to pass inspection), and new rear end in friend's white 2007 GT/CS with 64k miles I bought. Plus the usual complete fluid replace. I even bought a new Cervini hood and scoop and rear spoiler to replace the car's appearance theme once I have a bit more free cash.

It's my daily fair weather "beater". It's loud, in your face, and a fun commuter. I'd never get any of the upgrade costs back if I tried to sell or trade it in (especially with the upcoming paint job), but they were worth it for me to get another 60k+ miles out of it before I retire. I got the car for $10k, but I expect it to last a solid 5 years before I might be bored. I'm not a fan of the 2011+ body styles (I bought a 2011 and sold it Sept 2013) so I don't feel the need to upgrade. But that's just me.

I'm not sure if I'd spend money on performance improvements at this time though. 100k is a lot of wear on the internals, and pushing too much doesn't seem wise unless you rebuild the motor top to bottom. Personally, I'd love to build an all motor powerhouse if the top or bottom end went on either the 2005 or 2007, but that's only if something went up. Forced induction, especially high boost, while reliable is adding risk on a tired drivetrain. But if you have the money to sustain that, what the heck!

In summary, tough call. If you have an emotional attachment to the car, do NOT sell it now. It will hurt and you'll feel regret. I did that way too many times and it's been a hard lesson to learn. Upgrade the worn parts and enjoy the car. If you're itching for something newer, then just do it. I think at the end it's how you feel about the car. We've had shit weather for months, and I just am itching to take the car out today and rule the road for a few hours.

The real problem is what to do with my 2005. There are very few road miles, it's been raced a bit, and I've spent money putting it back in street trim. It sits in the garage. A real street beast now, but I can't bring myself to replace the racing clutch with a tamer street version. It needs a new identity. But I'm NEVER selling the "Boss".

Sorry, not sure anything I've written is all that useful. Just go with your gut...

Good luck.