New Alternator, Electrical issues now.

[Thekid760]

I searched, but was likely using wrong term as I found nothing I saw relevant.

Background:

I started my car after sitting a day and it just clicked. I threw the jumper box on and it started right up, I assumed it was the battery.

Autozone ran their portable test on it and it showed charging and starting and battery as failed the test. I went to O'Reilly's and they used the same machine and he said while it all passed but the battery was showing 1/4 capacity. So I bought a new one and everything was fine for about 2 weeks.

Saturday I was driving into work and my traction control light, ABS light came on, the radio shut off, and the windows wouldn't work. I assumed it was the alternator, kept the RPM's up and made it to work. The volts were 8 at idle on the battery.

I replaced the alternator, and it was confirmed on the bench test that it was bad.

Now my issue:

My radio shows the circles for the CD's, and I can hear it spinning or trying to load a CD constantly, even when car is off and key out. But the aux input works fine and the display functions properly. And the AC isnt working. The heater and fan work fine but the AC just blows warm. All issues are new since the alternator problem, I just used the AC 4 days ago.

What could be causing the AC & Radio problems?

I haven't gotten a chance to investigate it, but honestly I'm not sure where to start. Those are separate fuses so I doubt it is that.

Thanks for your help,

Mark

 

[RocketcarX]

Mine did this when the battery had a shorted cell. Started after I killed the battery listening to the radio at the lake one day. Jumped the car and went on my way, wouldn't start two weeks later out of the blue, the problem became more frequent as time passed. Battery was swelling at the seems and had obviously gotten very hot at some point. New battery, problem solved.

 

[Taxman]

My thoughts are that you killed the new battery when you still had the bad alternator in. I have a two month electrical gremlin thread on here somewhere about killing three alternators and three batteries while tracking that sucker down. I'd get your battery tested.

 

[Thekid760]

Good point, I didn't think about my new battery being damaged now. I'll stop by tomorrow and have them test it.

 

[Thekid760]

I had the battery and alternator tested by both autozone and O'Reilly's with their portable tester.

They both passed per the machine, but the output voltage at idle was fluctuating between 13.4-13.6.

The AC also randomly works now, but the radio is still amiss.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

The set point should be about 14.2 volts.

Do you have an aftermarket performance pulley set?

 

[Taxman]

I had the battery and alternator tested by both autozone and O'Reilly's with their portable tester.

They both passed per the machine, but the output voltage at idle was fluctuating between 13.4-13.6.

The AC also randomly works now, but the radio is still amiss.

Your alternator should be over 14. They'll say 13.3 is good but it's not. You've got something going on. What kind of electronics do you have?

 

[RocketcarX]

I still think you're battery is failing, looks at it closely, are the sides of it bulging? Will they warranty it out for you as it is?

 

[Thekid760]

I still think you're battery is failing, looks at it closely, are the sides of it bulging? Will they warranty it out for you as it is?

I'm going to try, but lets say they A team wasn't working, so ill go back later.


And I agree, 13.3 is unacceptable, I want st least 14.

I have steeda UDP, but they have been on the car for a few years, and I know for a fact it's charged at 14v before.

Electronics? I assume you mean added Do-dad's? None. Stock radio, speakers, etc.

I'm not at home so ill have to check the battery Sunday for any signs of failure or swelling etc.


Thanks


Misspelling courtesy of my fat fingers...

 

[Dubstep Shep]

The underdrive pulleys will reduce your voltage at idle. Above about 3k rpm the pulleys won't matter, but at low rpms and idle your alternator cannot keep the 14.2 set point.

 

[Thekid760]

I checked the voltage at idle when I have the initial battery issue but before I replaced the alternator. It registered 14.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I checked the voltage at idle when I have the initial battery issue but before I replaced the alternator. It registered 14.

Could be a combination of factors, but those UDPs are NOT good for alternators

 

[Thekid760]

copy I'll keep and eye on it and especially the battery, see what happens.

Thanks again.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

copy I'll keep and eye on it and especially the battery, see what happens.

Thanks again.

Always happy to help. Also, be aware that the auto zone, advance, etc testers are crap. They've been wrong before quite often.

And if you wanted to, you could switch to a larger larger alternator pulley to fix idle voltage issues. I only experienced it when I had the A/C and headlights on

 

[Thekid760]

where can I get a larger pulley?

 

[Dubstep Shep]

where can I get a larger pulley?

You'd probably have to check with a manufacturer. Other options include salvage yards. I have the unique ability from my job that I can order just a pulley, but most places don't sell those to the public. I could be wrong, but it's worth a phone call to the manufacturers if you end up going that route

 

[Thekid760]

ah, It sounded like that was something that was readily available.


I'm sure I could figure it out, but I'm lazy right now.

How much larger?

 

[Dubstep Shep]

ah, It sounded like that was something that was readily available.


I'm sure I could figure it out, but I'm lazy right now.

How much larger?

Well you want to keep your pulley ratio the same, so multiply your current size by the quotient of the new crank size vs the old crank size

 

[01yellerCobra]

Wouldn't you want to go to a smaller pulley to spin the alternator faster?

Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk

 

[RocketcarX]

Wouldn't you want to go to a smaller pulley to spin the alternator faster?

Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk

yes