Oil pump failure

lwarrior1016

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I totally agree. I used to get new pumps from ford and just put the boundary gears in them, but the pump became more and more expensive so now it’s just easier to get the entire assembly from boundary.
 

ryanmc92000

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Awesome, ill order that one. Im tearing it down tomorrow so i should know by 5pm tomorrow. Im very confident motor is good since oil was crystal clean. Do you suggest i swap put rod bearings while i have pan dropped?
 

lwarrior1016

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That’s a really tough call to make. Bearings would be easy since it’s right there. I’d probably check in the pan really well and make sure there isn’t any metal in the pan. Maybe pop a rod cap off and check a bearing. The problem is, you need an angle torque wrench and the rod bolts are torque to yield so they are technically supposed to be replaced. However, I have reused many of these rod bolts and not had an issue doing so.
 

ryanmc92000

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I have the proper torque wrench. I will def check pan, but i also flushed pan after initial drain and still nothing came out. I will update tomorrow pn pump. Waiting for my engine support bar to come in before i can pop pan off
 

Midlife Crises

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Cut the oil filter open and look for metal. If its clean leave the bearings alone unless your going to service them for real. If I remember correctly oil comes out of the pump and goes directly to the filter before the rest of the engine.
 

eighty6gt

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I have boundary gears in a gt500 pump with the heavy steel back plate

Whooooo eeeeee my car has been awesome for years with them!! **Slaps hood**
 

ryanmc92000

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Consensus here, some dirt got into the head when i did valve cover gasket and chewed up oil pump. Head looks good, no marks. Also had a cracked timing guide which explained my noises.

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lwarrior1016

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The pump damage sucks, but shouldn’t be enough to cause zero pressure. How did the pickup tube look? How about the o-ring on the tube to the pump?
 

SVT Rider

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A lot of pressure can be lost around the chain guide tensioners when the seals burst (the seals mate with the tensioner backing and the engine block face). The seal is little more than a silicon bead pressed against the block face...I have often wondered if it would be worth applying RTV as a seal around these tensioners as the seals are prone to break.

When you replace your timing chain guide, it would be good insurance to replace both tensioners and check the seals for rupture. Also for a chain to slap a guide to breakage indicates that likely the chain is loose: either worn chain or tensioners were not keeping tension on the guide.
 

lwarrior1016

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That’s a good point too, upgrade those chain tensioners to the iron ones. They do not use a seal, it just seals on the machines surface and they are much more durable.
 

JC SSP

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Nice work buddy!

Post as many pics as you can. Also any tricks or issues. This should be a sticky. I know I will have to do this (tensioner, guides and oil pump) in the near future.
 

Midlife Crises

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Now we’re getting somewhere. Loosing oil through the tensioners is much better than a broken pump. The top end could have suffered a bit of ware over the long term but probably not fatal. Ford Performance timing kit with phasers will replace the warn parts. Ford also has a lash adjuster and follower kit to complete the valvetrain overhaul. It is more difficult to repair the cam bearings if they are gouged but it can be done. If you choose to run iron or aftermarket chain tensioners that ratchet remember to grind the teeth off the plunger so they can not lock extended.
 

lwarrior1016

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Now we’re getting somewhere. Loosing oil through the tensioners is much better than a broken pump. The top end could have suffered a bit of ware over the long term but probably not fatal. Ford Performance timing kit with phasers will replace the warn parts. Ford also has a lash adjuster and follower kit to complete the valvetrain overhaul. It is more difficult to repair the cam bearings if they are gouged but it can be done. If you choose to run iron or aftermarket chain tensioners that ratchet remember to grind the teeth off the plunger so they can not lock extended.
What makes you grind the ratchet mechanism off?

I typically push that out all the way to the tensioner arm. Having that there is nice, in case oil pressure fails, that will hold the chain tight.
 

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