Panhard bar selection help. All seem the same essentially.

HC_Tad

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It's "necessary" from an axle location point of view once you find that your axle is not centered closely enough to suit you for either tire fitment or visual reasons.

The main benefit to handling is with respect to "feel". This is mainly a function of aftermarker PHBs being supplied with stiffer bushings in either or both ends or some sort of spherical pivot in at least one end rather than from the bar itself.


I'm not exactly sure why the recommendation for a steel PHB for FI applications, unless the assumptions are heavy dragstrip duty, no LCA axle-side relocation and poly bushings in both ends of the PHB. But I'll take a stab at it.

There is a bit of pinion angle change due to rear squat under acceleration, which then twists the axle end of the PHB. Still looking in side view, the squat itself amounts to the chassis twisting the other end of the PHB the other way, adding to the amount of torsional shear stress that the PHB has to carry. OE rubber bushings are soft enough to avoid much torsion from developing in the PHB (and making just one end a spherical joint will all but eliminate it) but plain poly will cause a lot more to be developed.

This situation is a repeated load on the PHB, and aluminum does not have a definite endurance limit, so I'm guessing that the mfr is being properly cautious here.


Norm

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merk

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I have the Freedom racing piece and I love it. As said, great customer service and quality!
 

mot250

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My only suggestion is to get one that has an adjustment somewhere other than way out at the ends. The Freedom Racing piece I saw in prior posts in this thread meets this requirement.

I suggest this because there is very little room at the ends to get a wrench on it to make the final adjustments when everything is level and at ride height.

The centering is much more important when adding wider wheels/tires after a drop.
 

captdistraction

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Another thumbs up for the steel PHB from Freedom racing. Its very light compared to the stock piece, adjustable and rod ends will remove the compliance/flex

Its a great piece and the pricing is fantastic for a part made in the U.S.
 

vbluep51

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I am interested in the aluminum PHD, if I get the heim ends on both side, does the noise level go up or stay the same.
 

HC_Tad

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I am interested in the aluminum PHD, if I get the heim ends on both side, does the noise level go up or stay the same.

Heims on both ends equals the opportunity for more noise to be transmitted. Many customers run them and love them. Others want poly on the chassis end. It varies from car to car and it varies from person to person. We've sold a lot of heims/poly combos lately and customers have been extremely pleased with this setup. PM me for special forum pricing when you're ready...

And thanks again for all the positive feedback and support from so many of you!
 

vbluep51

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Heims on both ends equals the opportunity for more noise to be transmitted. Many customers run them and love them. Others want poly on the chassis end. It varies from car to car and it varies from person to person. We've sold a lot of heims/poly combos lately and customers have been extremely pleased with this setup. PM me for special forum pricing when you're ready...

And thanks again for all the positive feedback and support from so many of you!


just a suggestion, you should add the option to ship spare/extra ends. if for some reason someone does not like the heim ends they can switch one of them out for the poly end. I know I want one just trying to decide between aluminum and steel. Also how much does the stock PHD brace weight?
 
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HC_Tad

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just a suggestion, you should add the option to ship spare/extra ends. if for some reason someone does not like the heim ends they can switch one of them out for the poly end. I know I want one just trying to decide between aluminum and steel. Also how much does the stock PHD brace weight?

We do offer ends to customers who want to try different combos, but you're right, we should list them on our site to make it more convenient for customers. We'll try to get that done today - Thanks for the suggestion!

Stock panhard weighed in at 7lb 4oz
Our steel is 3lb 8oz
Our aluminum is 2lb 9oz
Add a few ounces for poly ends.

Also, our panhard support brace (which I highly recommend) is 3lb 9oz
 

vbluep51

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How much is the stock PHD BRACE weight??
We do offer ends to customers who want to try different combos, but you're right, we should list them on our site to make it more convenient for customers. We'll try to get that done today - Thanks for the suggestion!

Stock panhard weighed in at 7lb 4oz
Our steel is 3lb 8oz
Our aluminum is 2lb 9oz
Add a few ounces for poly ends.

Also, our panhard support brace (which I highly recommend) is 3lb 9oz
 

HC_Tad

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How much is the stock PHD BRACE weight??

I'm sorry, I can't tell you but we'll be sure and weigh one next time we're installing one of ours. It probably weighs about the same as our Stallion brace does. However, the stock piece is a horrible, flimsy piece of junk that you can literally twist by hand.
 

Norm Peterson

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However, the stock piece is a horrible, flimsy piece of junk that you can literally twist by hand.
I'm afraid that this one of those cases where appearances may be deceiving.

A PHB brace as it is installed between the pedestal just above the PHB itself and the main chassis structure on the other side could never be twisted like that unless you've already done heavy damage to the rear of the car. In that case, a pretzeled-up PHB brace would be the least of your concerns.

A more rigid than OE PHB brace might theoretically offer a tiny bit more lateral stiffness or reserve strength specifically in near-the-limit left hand cornering (when the brace would be in compression). I suspect you'd be hard-pressed to notice the difference, though.


Norm
 

HC_Tad

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I'm afraid that this one of those cases where appearances may be deceiving.

A PHB brace as it is installed between the pedestal just above the PHB itself and the main chassis structure on the other side could never be twisted like that unless you've already done heavy damage to the rear of the car. In that case, a pretzeled-up PHB brace would be the least of your concerns.

A more rigid than OE PHB brace might theoretically offer a tiny bit more lateral stiffness or reserve strength specifically in near-the-limit left hand cornering (when the brace would be in compression). I suspect you'd be hard-pressed to notice the difference, though.


Norm

I hear what you're saying, Norm. With that said, we have had customers who say they noticed a difference in handling. Is some of that psychological?? Perhaps...
How it "feels" can be very subjective but I can honestly say we've received great feedback from customers on the brace as well.

If you're going to swap out the brace, doing it while you're already replacing the panhard is certainly the most convenient way to go about it.
 

Norm Peterson

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I hear what you're saying, Norm. With that said, we have had customers who say they noticed a difference in handling. Is some of that psychological?? Perhaps...
How it "feels" can be very subjective
Sometimes there's a perception of "solid-ness" that comes from changing the NVH characteristics just a little. When vibrations that you only feel subliminally go off to a frequency or location where it's even less noticeable, it's very easy to perceive the difference to represent a performance improvement. Who knows, it might just eliminate a slight discouragement to driving harder (which would still be an improvement, though more of a driver improvement).

I wouldn't be all that surprised if this was another such situation.


Norm
 

Sharad

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At UPR, we don't offer aluminum vs mild steel as an option. Our adjustable panhard bar is tubular chrome-moly for max strength. I've seen OEM panhard bars that broke, and that would be a scary ride for sure...

Anyway, we do offer our panhard bar with your choice of polyurethane bushings or spherical bearings. I chose our polyurethane "Pro Street" bar for my daily driver.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-street-adjustable-pan-hard-bar-05.html

^^$135 with a Lifetime Guarantee.
 

HC_Tad

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My only experience with UPR was a positive one. Good product and service :highfive:
 

MTNMAN

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It seems most PHB's on the market are the same other than bushing vs rod end or aluminum vs steel.
The only one I've seen that seems to be more than a adjustable version of the factory one is the Kenny Brown Performance GT-4 Roll-Center Relocation Kit
 
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neema

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At UPR, we don't offer aluminum vs mild steel as an option. Our adjustable panhard bar is tubular chrome-moly for max strength. I've seen OEM panhard bars that broke, and that would be a scary ride for sure...

Anyway, we do offer our panhard bar with your choice of polyurethane bushings or spherical bearings. I chose our polyurethane "Pro Street" bar for my daily driver.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-street-adjustable-pan-hard-bar-05.html

^^$135 with a Lifetime Guarantee.


i have a maximum motorsports aluminum bar with solid ends, and although i love the build quality and construction of the piece, it transmits more noise than i'd originally hoped for through the cabin. to the OP, i'd go with what sharad said above and get something with polyurethane
 

BMR Tech

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I ordered some Ford Racing springs for the 1" drop and having just ordered wheels and tires, I also wanted to add a panhard bar. BMR has so many different kinds for different prices.

I am not even sure I would need one.

Springs & tires is as far as my suspension mods will go (Shocks eventually) but just those 2 things now.

So is a panhard even necessary? Or is it piece of mind on a one inch drop? On an old thread I searched I noticed a few people saying even at stock height an aftermarket panhard bar seemed to help with cornering.

Norm has given some great tech info, that should help you quite a bit.

If you are considering a BMR product, please let me know; I will be happy to help you choose the right bar for your needs.

Thanks!
 

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