Removing OEM UCA bracket

wdrlaw

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Posts
48
Reaction score
14
Location
Columbia, SC
2009 GT. I have removed and replaced the third link bracket twice without trouble--did not even have to drop the gas tank. Now I have a new bracket from Steeda. This afternoon I removed all the bolts easily (well, with the help of a breaker bar and a 1" pipe) and the bracket and link are loose. It won't come out. I have removed the bolts holding the gas tank brackets. I've tried with jack stands under the axle and under the frame at full droop. I have tried to use a pry bar and an old 24" long Craftsman screwdriver, but there is little purchase to be had and even less space to lever. Any ideas why this problem now, when twice before it's been (relatively) easy-peasy?
 

Deathstang II

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Posts
118
Reaction score
32
Location
Texas
As far as Im aware that UCA bracket should just come right out. Though I'd recommend taking the arm out first then bracket. When I replaced the UCA I noticed it would have to come out first to easily have enough room to take the bracket out too.
 

Midlife Crises

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Posts
1,857
Reaction score
1,266
Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
I have had to lower the gas tank a little bit on my 2010 every time I have removed the upper bracket. Many say their upper bracket comes out with a little wiggling but that has not been my luck. Perhaps the fuel tank has shifted and has the bracket trapped.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,145
Reaction score
526
Location
Farmington, NM
+1 w\ Midlife Crises...........

Also, if you haven't already done so, check that your exhaust piping isn't keeping the gas tank shield from lowering any more. On my '09 GT when I've swapped out UCA\mount assemblies, my gas tank will only lower approx 1" on its own due to the tank shield resting on my Pypes M-80 mufflers after unstrapping it so I have to manually pull the gas tank down by hand the extra 1\4" for the front UCA mount lug to clear the unibody then pull it back down to reinsert the UCA mount back into the unibody hole the front lug goes into.

Just a suggestion..................
 

wdrlaw

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Posts
48
Reaction score
14
Location
Columbia, SC
Did you remove the rear seat & get the top bolt?

Yes I did, Top Sergeant. All the bolts came out a lot easier than they went in. Issue seems to be the the bung welded on the bracket won't clear the frame. Tomorrow I will thread the top bolt and tap it to see if I can get the bracket low enough to clear.
 

Onelildude

forum member
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Posts
391
Reaction score
7
Location
Georgia
I recently replaced my bracket and had to lower the fuel tank to get the bracket out (2010 GT). To get the full tank to lower I had to pry it loose from the body after loosening the straps, but it did lower enough for me to remove the bracket.
 

GriffX

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Posts
537
Reaction score
183
BTW, what is a good way to tighten the bolt at the differential with loaded suspension without a lift?
 

wdrlaw

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Posts
48
Reaction score
14
Location
Columbia, SC
I recently replaced my bracket and had to lower the fuel tank to get the bracket out (2010 GT). To get the full tank to lower I had to pry it loose from the body after loosening the straps, but it did lower enough for me to remove the bracket.
Yes. Last two times the OEM bracket came out and went back in without messing with the tank. This time, no such luck.
BTW, what is a good way to tighten the bolt at the differential with loaded suspension without a lift?
Ha. If you find out, let me know. I cheated by torquing it in full droop. I have a spherical bearing on the differential so I wasn't too worried about twisting a poly bushing.
 

07 Boss

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Posts
3,859
Reaction score
989
Location
Sin City
BTW, what is a good way to tighten the bolt at the differential with loaded suspension without a lift?

Two schools of thought here. One you can lift the back of the car with the pumpkin. Two you can use ramps or jack the car up and put the rear tires on blocks or use jack stands to hold the car up by the axles.
 

JC SSP

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Posts
1,080
Reaction score
466
Location
FL
07 Boss is spot on!

Measure the top of your tire to fender lip as the car sits. Then lift car and place on jack stands on chassis. Lift via differential pumpkin with floor jack until you have the same measurement between tire and fender lip. That's as close as you are going to get to having the car even and fully laden.
 

wdrlaw

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Posts
48
Reaction score
14
Location
Columbia, SC
Update: the tapping trick did not work. I dropped the gas tank another inch or so (maybe 2-1/2" total) and the bracket came right out. I can't feel anything that may have held it in place, but there is no doubt that the bung receiving the top bolt could not clear the frame reinforcement.
 

DieHarder

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2019
Posts
1,468
Reaction score
758
Update: the tapping trick did not work. I dropped the gas tank another inch or so (maybe 2-1/2" total) and the bracket came right out. I can't feel anything that may have held it in place, but there is no doubt that the bung receiving the top bolt could not clear the frame reinforcement.

Many/most of the brackets will not come out unless you drop the gas tank a few inches. At least that's been my experience. Thankfully, I've only had to do it once.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,216
Reaction score
1,104
On the 05-10 cars, the gas tank has to be lowered..... which means to run it down to just under 1/4 tank.
On 11+ cars, gas tank does not have to be removed.

On my 2010, gas tank lowered....and also rear seat removed..1st. BMR adjustable UCA installed.
 
Back
Top