The Official LostSoul Thread!!

lostsoul

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Thats right ladies and Gentlemen its a tread all about the one and only. I will throw my unless information/ Comments in other threads as normal but thought I should make a thread to focus on my issues in one area then all over the place. In this thread Screamn yellow is the best color ever period! and a mid 12 second 600hp car is normal, and 3 inches is above average..... :whistling:

Anyhoo, Lets Start.

Issue #1

After getting tuned with my new MMR built motor. I have been having issues with driving when the car is cold. It will make some intake popping sounds when trying to drive it. I had the car re-tuned from another tuner and he was able to "work" most of it out. HE also told me he thinks there is a leak in the head gasket(an mmr metal racing gasket). When the car warms up its seals up and stomping on it is fine. I have had this issue for a while but its not been much of an issue. 3-5 min of warm up and I'm fine. Last night and now I hear something like that noise when warm and stomping on it. I dont know if this one is air or miss-fire. I will check the plugs today. There are no codes thrown for these issues. Questions.

1. I'm very worried about my head gasket "if" its an issue. Someone told me a leak down test would test to see if its good. IS this true? how much?

2. Could the car miss-fire without a code being thrown and could be be something other then plugs (bad gas)?

These might be separate issues. ITs hard to tell. The cold start has been going on for a while and this other noise(miss-fire?) just happened last night and only does it when I stomp on it.


Issue #2

Damn boost gauge. Ever since the engine rebuild I have not been able to get my Nordskog digital gauge ( http://www.nordskogperformance.net/ )to work again. The settings and hook up never changed. All it is is a ground wire and signal wire going from sending unit to gauge. I thought the sending unit might have gone bad so I bought a new one.. but it didnt fix the issue. I talked to their tech support and with 100 ohm res tested the gauge itself and read 9psi (which is what it should read) with the res between the signal and ground. I ran new wires and it seems like nothing is fixing it. Doesnt look like a leak or anything It jsut reads 00 and doesnt go up.

1. I had a Vortech mondo bypass installed. It might be a dumb question but can this some how affect the gauge? Before I had the procharger bypass connected to were the gauge is at and it worked. Anyone have any ideas?

mondo.JPG

boost.JPG



Issue #3

Increasing air intake. Today/ tomorrow I will be installing a GT500TB upgrade from RPM(many of you love that place http://rpmoutlet.com/05gtbbk.htm ) and Anderson motorsports powerpipe for the procharger (http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/dynojet/05GTATIPPhoodclosed.jpg)

1. Both these items say they can be installed withOUT a tune. IF I install both of these and do a little ram air.. can I get away and drive it safely without a tune? I plan to get another tune soon.. but can I get away with it and will I get some hp?

You can see the difference between the stock procharger filter and the Anderson power pipe :evil:

power pipe.JPG

The GT500 TB will be a very close fit because there is almost no room to move the procharger intake pipe back to fit the spacer and TB. RPM said it fit on their F1 and "Should fit". I think it will with some knuckle banging :idea:

500tb.JPG


Thanks for any help you guys can offer :thumb:
 

don_w

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I wouldn't do #3, until you resolve #1. Why add in yet another variable???
 

US-1

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Leak down test and a compression test could show a bad head gasket. Check the plugs first. Where did you buy the gasoline?
 

lostsoul

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chevron in Stockton. I just cant tell if the 2 issues are from the same thing. The main reason I'm worried about the head gasket is that its the upgraded one from mmr and there was someone else that got the same mmr block and maybe same gasket (Hotown??) an I think he said it blew his built motor. I have been trying to find that thread.. I think its somewhere at mod fords. I remember Michael doing a compression check on the cylenders and they came out pretty good. I dont know if a leak down was do or the difference
 

lostsoul

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I was thinking about getting some 100 mixed in and see what happens. Either way I think I will want that leak down test.. any idea how much it cost to get it done? Is this something that pepboys or anyone can do?
 

US-1

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I wouldn't let PepBoys change the plug in my lawnmower. Most service shops will do a compression test. Leakdown test is more in line with engine builders. Find a reputable repair shop and ask if they have the equipment for a leakdown.
 

lostsoul

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I'm taking her to the shop that I got my gears and other things installed. They will do both a compression and leak down for me. I'm trying to get into mod fords and get the numbers for the compression check that Michael did after the rebuild. How close should the numbers be after a year of beating on it? I will post what I find. Right now Stanly is getting some beer so we can pull the plugs.. Does anyone still have access to modularfords.com? hahaha.. I need to get back in :beat: My Clickleader uid dont work anymore.. hahah
 

lostsoul

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It looks like Michael did a leak down test after the rebuild 1/07

Input Pressure 75.0psi
Cyl PSI %_leakdown
#1 70.0 6.5
#2 69.0 8.0
#3 70.5 6.0
#4 73.0 3.0
#5 71.0 5.0
#6 73.0 3.0
#7 71.0 5.0
#8 72.0 4.0
 

cekim

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1. I had a Vortech mondo bypass installed. It might be a dumb question but can this some how affect the gauge? Before I had the procharger bypass connected to were the gauge is at and it worked. Anyone have any ideas?
Silly thought - I don't suppose there is a wad of teflon tape on the threads of that sender? Looks like you have a ghetto ground going to the T - but if the T is not well grounded to the sender, then you are up a certain creek without a rowing instrument...

p.s. if you have a volt-ohm meter you can just to a continuity/resistivity test between the chassis and the sender (aka "buzz it out" - they should show ~0ohms resistance, "short" to ground).

BTW - I haven't bothered to look at that sender, but it appears to have 2 posts - is the 2nd one perhaps a ground?
 
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169stang

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You can buy both of those tools for leakdown and compression (plus the adapter) for near what it's going to cost to have it tested. Simple tests to perform and doesn't require $95/hr.
I agree with Don. I wouldn't do anything until you get the issues resolved. I wouldn't use any other head gasket than the Ford head gasket. It works just fine!
 

lostsoul

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I wouldn't use any other head gasket than the Ford head gasket. It works just fine!

I ordered the MMR upgrade metal gasket. Still trying to find out the name of it. On the way to the shop to do the testing for me, I did some more stomping and now it almost sounds like its backfiring and "Coughing". It will do it when I'm just on it a little bit. Damn I hope its bad gas =-/


As for the gauge, There is not Teflon on the sending usnit itself. There is on a bolt that just plugs a hole. (its been on there long ago) Same with the ground. Thats where I had it before when it was working. I ran a new wire for both sending unit and ground(didnt help). The old sending unit had one nipple for the sending wire and the ground was screwed next to it on the black housing. The new sending unit you see there (2 weeks old). has 2 nipples and you can connect them with either wire. This boost thing is driving me crazy because there is not much too it. Even for a i dot like me.
 

SixtySix

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2. Could the car miss-fire without a code being thrown and could be be something other then plugs (bad gas)?

YES! When I trashed my plugs with and octane booster, it would misfire in the mid to upper RPM ranges at WOT and it NEVER threw a code.

I datalogged mine to get to the bottom of it, and pulled the plugs and sure enough, they were all trashed. 2 in particular were bad enough that I couldn't make out the electrode anymore.

So, have you pulled the plugs yet? What are you waiting for :idea:
 

lostsoul

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Never tried octane booster (Saw Stanly pay for it long ago). The Car is at the shop. We took it there last night so when they get in they will be able to do compression and leak down test and will check the plugs. IF it is a bad gas then can I just get some 100 racing in there to help burn it up or will I have to empty the tank and replace plugs? =-/
 

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