TR6060 Problems.

[explict]

So it's been a while since I have posted.
I did my build last year, got the car running from a blown motor in May '10, got the car tuned in June, the shitty steeda 10 rib pulley exploded, rebuilt it myself in July. But the car had a problem from the beginning of the build. Something wrong with the transmission, I put a new slave cylinder in, never fixed it, put a new clutch in, never fixed it. Transmission is TR6060 bought it as a kit. I believe it was a refurbished unit. Look brand spanking new when I got it.

Symptoms are as follows:

Putting the car in first:
Clutch pedal is on the light side. shifter goes into first easy, let off the clutch, engagment point seems....off. Car jitters a bit.

Second:
You can not shift into second without it grinding unless:
after letting off the gas and pressing clutch pedal pull back on the shifter toward second as RPM's drop the shifter will go into the gate at the right point.

Third, fourth, fifth and sixth:
Easy bang these gears like no-ones business.

Reverse:
Press clutch pedal and as soon as you put the shifter in reverse the car jumps. Reverse like normal.

Really don't expect many responses if any. People said Slave at first, but that wasnt it. Some people say it has to do with the reverse lock out which is not hooked up and others say it is a bad master cylinder. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[bmaxwell]

I had a refurbished stock 5 speed put in from the service center at Ford and it was a POS from the beginning. I eventually ran outta warranty with it and 3rd was shot, so I got it rebuilt by a reputable transmission shop that my performance shop I was getting all my work done at sent it to, and they replaced most of the synchros and some other shit and we slapped it back in there and 3rd was doing the same exact thing. Yanked it back out and they looked at it and switched the entire 3rd gear out and then we put it back in and it STILL had the same problem. It would just grind on the way into 3rd, so we never could figure out what was wrong. That transmission, I concluded, was just a piece of junk from the start. Maybe yours is screwed up internally. Sorry it's not much help just thought I would share my story lol

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Were did you buy the transmission?

 

[Speed+Clinic]

Bad master cylinder, it is not a syncro problem. Transmision problems when it is built wrong is none of your symptoms, or atleast it doesn't evolve big ones you mentioned. It is a bad master. Happened to me...

 

[fdjizm]

I had a refurbished stock 5 speed put in from the service center at Ford and it was a POS from the beginning. I eventually ran outta warranty with it and 3rd was shot, so I got it rebuilt by a reputable transmission shop that my performance shop I was getting all my work done at sent it to, and they replaced most of the synchros and some other shit and we slapped it back in there and 3rd was doing the same exact thing. Yanked it back out and they looked at it and switched the entire 3rd gear out and then we put it back in and it STILL had the same problem. It would just grind on the way into 3rd, so we never could figure out what was wrong. That transmission, I concluded, was just a piece of junk from the start. Maybe yours is screwed up internally. Sorry it's not much help just thought I would share my story lol

I'm having the same issue with 3rd gear.
The dealer gave me a "new" transmission less than a month ago, I told them 3rd gear was notchy they told me to let it break in.
Now I have a grind in 3rd shifting just above granny shifting.

I took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I told them shift a bit faster they said they can't ford has strict limitations on testing bla bla bla, so basically they told me to bring it back when it really breaks.

nice huh? I was thinking about just getting a 6060.

 

[05yellowgt]

Have you checked the air gap between the slave at rest and the fingers of the pressure plate? It sounds like you might need to shim the slave to get the proper clearance.

 

[explict]

I never installed the clutch either time. First time My friend did it while I was working and the second time a shop did it because I never had access to a garage. (the only thing I never personally worked on in my car and it doesn't work....) So I don't have a clue what it looks like under there right now.

I bought the tranny kit with my 4.6L Aluminator from a vendor on this site. (Not sure if they would appreciate me saying the name in case it was bad?)

 

[chad05gt]

So it's been a while since I have posted.
I did my build last year, got the car running from a blown motor in May '10, got the car tuned in June, the shitty steeda 10 rib pulley exploded, rebuilt it myself in July. But the car had a problem from the beginning of the build. Something wrong with the transmission, I put a new slave cylinder in, never fixed it, put a new clutch in, never fixed it. Transmission is TR6060 bought it as a kit. I believe it was a refurbished unit. Look brand spanking new when I got it.

Symptoms are as follows:

Putting the car in first:
Clutch pedal is on the light side. shifter goes into first easy, let off the clutch, engagment point seems....off. Car jitters a bit.

Second:
You can not shift into second without it grinding unless:
after letting off the gas and pressing clutch pedal pull back on the shifter toward second as RPM's drop the shifter will go into the gate at the right point.

Third, fourth, fifth and sixth:
Easy bang these gears like no-ones business.

Reverse:
Press clutch pedal and as soon as you put the shifter in reverse the car jumps. Reverse like normal.

Really don't expect many responses if any. People said Slave at first, but that wasnt it. Some people say it has to do with the reverse lock out which is not hooked up and others say it is a bad master cylinder. Let me know your thoughts.

If you know you dont have air, and tolerances are right (I cut a BIG hole in bellhousing to make sure ).
1/2 will grind until lubed upon cold start up/lazy driving...even then, the 2nd or 3rd stop and go should be fine.

 

[06vistabluegt]

Which clutch? Had similar symptoms with a spec clutch. Switched to a Ram setup that Chad recommended to me and the trans shifted extremely well after that.

 

[SnowMan]

I too had issues with Spec clutches. The engagment point would change on me from one day to the next. Did you replace the Spec S3 from your original build with another Spec?

 

[94tbird]

if the car moves in reverse with the clutch depressed you have a bad clutch. I did that when I melted one of my clutch discs to the flywheel, haha. anytime i put the car into gear, even with the clutch depressed it wanted to jump forward.

 

[bmaxwell]

I'm having the same issue with 3rd gear.
The dealer gave me a "new" transmission less than a month ago, I told them 3rd gear was notchy they told me to let it break in.
Now I have a grind in 3rd shifting just above granny shifting.

I took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I told them shift a bit faster they said they can't ford has strict limitations on testing bla bla bla, so basically they told me to bring it back when it really breaks.

nice huh? I was thinking about just getting a 6060.

Yea exactly like what I went through. Its a bunch of bull shit but now the 3650 I have in a diff mustang than the one with the shitty transmission is holding up perfectly or was until the shortblock swap now third is grinding when i shift real hard and fast but I am just going to get the che torque limiters and some motor mounts to fix that. Wish I could get the 6060 but not anytime soon for me!

 

[explict]

The car doesn't move when I put it in reverse but it kinda jumps.

I had a spec 3+ then switched to a McLeod rxt. Same symptoms with both.

I don't think it is air I bled it like 4 different times and the shop bled it too.

 

[kevinatfms]

you need to vacuum bleed the clutch on 05+ mustangs. that could be one problem. also there was a tsb for the 6060 which involved sketchy shifting, i will research a little and get back to you.

 

[bigray327]

I'm having 6060 issues too, so I feel your pain. Hang in there.

 

[TurboX]

As others have said, its a clutch disk/pressure plate problem. Beware though, a shim or adjustable slave is not always the solution. If the forks on the pressure plate are already extended shimming isnt going to fix the problem. You need a thinner disk or steel if its a dual disk to increase the air gap. If you go to RAMs site, there is a worksheet and this will give you a better idea of what Im saying.

 

[explict]

So I just read somewhere someone suggests this. Think I could have a kinked or broken hose?

http://store.jpcracing.com/JPC-05-11-GTGT500-Clutch-Line-Upgrade_p_601.html

 

[TurboX]

So I just read somewhere someone suggests this. Think I could have a kinked or broken hose?

http://store.jpcracing.com/JPC-05-11-GTGT500-Clutch-Line-Upgrade_p_601.html

I doubt it, As others have asked, what clutch ?

 

[explict]

Spec 3+ first then McLeod rxt. Five posts up.

 

[TurboX]

Spec 3+ first then McLeod rxt. Five posts up.

Sorry about that, I dont know how I missed it.

Need to drop trans and take measurements(Goto RAMs website for worksheet)

Solution is going to be to either add shim(If fingers arent already fully extended) or get a thinner disk or thinner steel.


Also suggest calling McLeod Tech support

I have the same problem as you, RAM has already told me that if I take measurements they will make sure my clutch assembly is sent back with the proper tolerances needed. My car will lunge forward when going into 1st gear and grind when trying to put into reverse. I have made a habit of just turning off the car when going into reverse, as soon as Im done tuning, Im shipping clutch and measurements back to RAM.