Wiring in the electric fan to a switch?

vakane

Minister of sinister
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Posts
128
Reaction score
0
Location
Miami
The thermostat is different than the fan.

The fan is controlled by the computer, not the thermostat. The thermostat is a mechanical device that controls when the coolant flows through the radiator.

The purpose of wiring the fan to a switch is to activate it when sitting in staging lanes at the drag strip.

right... doesnt he do that to lower temps?? a thermostat is also a cheap mod that helps alot with that.
sorry for the silly assumptions. I dont drag race at all... so im a bench mechanic :(

I did that mod on my rx7 and it worked well.
 

beefcake

Forced Induction Specialist
Official Vendor
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Posts
4,378
Reaction score
23
Location
Bethel, Ohio
right... doesnt he do that to lower temps?? a thermostat is also a cheap mod that helps alot with that.
sorry for the silly assumptions. I dont drag race at all... so im a bench mechanic :(

I did that mod on my rx7 and it worked well.

the fan will cool the car while waiting for next round
 

DTony

forum member
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Posts
822
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
the fan will cool the car while waiting for next round

Yesterday I raced in 90 degree temps with actual DA's at the track near Cleveland between 3500~4000'. It was the worst air I have raced in. The fan switch allowed me to cool the car in 30 minutes easily between runs.

With ice on the intake and the fan running everything was cool to the touch in 10~15 minnutes, after 30 minutes the gauge was almost burried on Cold. The battery holds up surprisingly well also.
 

beefcake

Forced Induction Specialist
Official Vendor
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Posts
4,378
Reaction score
23
Location
Bethel, Ohio
Yesterday I raced in 90 degree temps with actual DA's at the track near Cleveland between 3500~4000'. It was the worst air I have raced in. The fan switch allowed me to cool the car in 30 minutes easily between runs.

With ice on the intake and the fan running everything was cool to the touch in 10~15 minnutes, after 30 minutes the gauge was almost burried on Cold. The battery holds up surprisingly well also.

No reason to go that cold. These motors like to be warm. You want to be at full operating temp when making the pass.

The cooldown is good to get the top half of the motor cool, get some heat out of the engine bay, in my case, cool down the s/c.

Don't go too long, or you'll find yourself with a dead battery!
 

DTony

forum member
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Posts
822
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
No reason to go that cold. These motors like to be warm. You want to be at full operating temp when making the pass.

The cooldown is good to get the top half of the motor cool, get some heat out of the engine bay, in my case, cool down the s/c.

Don't go too long, or you'll find yourself with a dead battery!

I realize all that you are saying. But by the time you go from the pits, and through staging, and a burnout it is back up to temp.
 

2011/5.0

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Posts
955
Reaction score
22
Location
Iowa
so on the 2011 5.0 its the bottom connector(of the 3) on the pcm, how did u access the wire u needed? pics? I NEED THIS!
 

DTony

forum member
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Posts
822
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
so on the 2011 5.0 its the bottom connector(of the 3) on the pcm, how did u access the wire u needed? pics? I NEED THIS!

Once you unplug the bottom connector, remove the cap that is holding the wires tight. Like was mentioned earlier the connector is numbered on the inside. For the high speed fan it was #18. All I did was strip the wire and solder another wire to it and to the switch. The other side of the switch I put to ground under the dash. It took an hour tops and was easy to do.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top