Bogging. Need to improve my 60'

Hotrodder

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Ok so I'm on the hunt for a used one piece drive shaft, I'm getting the mgw short throw very soon and before I hit the track I plan to have a set of drag wheels/tires to knock out a 12.5-12.8ish run. Question though. How the hell do I know the right tire combo for my car?? Ha too many options:

ee3c919dbcaf25871d81936bbf745618.jpg
 

fdjizm

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Fuck all that chart shit.
MT ET streets in 26" or Hoosier QTP's in 26"
 

Hotrodder

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Et streets? It was strongly suggested to go with et drags, not radials.

26" is good though, I was wondering on size and didn't want to get that part wrong. Thanks
 

Hotrodder

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Went back and looked again. MT/ET street bias ply, not radials is what was suggested. I'll have to check those out. Thanks very much everybody for the vids and tips and info. I know I've said it but can't say enough how much I appreciate it.
 

fdjizm

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Et streets? It was strongly suggested to go with et drags, not radials.

26" is good though, I was wondering on size and didn't want to get that part wrong. Thanks
ET Street is a bias ply DOT.
You can go with the drags, I usually like something that is not in fear for it's life on the way to the track if I happen to run over a rock.
Depends on if you're driving to the track I guess. They are just very soft.
 

Hotrodder

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I'd most likely switch at the track just to save the tires more. It's about 65 miles one way I think to the track, not sure, just know how to get there haha. So that's too many garbage miles on drag tires for me.
 

fdjizm

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I'd most likely switch at the track just to save the tires more. It's about 65 miles one way I think to the track, not sure, just know how to get there haha. So that's too many garbage miles on drag tires for me.
As long as you have a safe place to store the wheels you take off you're good.
Unless I am at a rental I'd always go to the track in my race shoes.
 

Hotrodder

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Not really an issue at the track I go to but I get that. I'm pretty paranoid as it is haha. But there is almost always someone in a "chase" car/truck with us I could always throw them in too
 

lindertw

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Ok so I'm on the hunt for a used one piece drive shaft, I'm getting the mgw short throw very soon and before I hit the track I plan to have a set of drag wheels/tires to knock out a 12.5-12.8ish run.
stock shifter here, no issues (I did swap trans fluid to Pennzoil Syncromesh). Stock 2-pc drive shaft here too.

If you want to save your money on that 1pc drive shaft, but still want that one tenth at the track:
- pull passenger seat (four bolts and 45+ lbs)
- gut your trunk (spare, jack, shaker sub and amps)
- run a power steering delete short belt (can swap it at the track in 10mins or less, then swap back before you go home)

Fuck all that chart shit.
MT ET streets in 26" or Hoosier QTP's in 26"
yep

Et streets? It was strongly suggested to go with et drags, not radials.

26" is good though, I was wondering on size and didn't want to get that part wrong. Thanks

look here with a couple of options:

- pick up a set of 17" OEM wheels off craigslist cheap and go with p/n 3743 (26x11.50-17LT). I used to run this setup before switching to 15" drag wheels
- or get a set of 16" OEM V6 wheels and use p/n 3792 (26x10.5-16LT)

The 16" OEM should clear your brakes with no issue, will be lighter than the 17" OEM/ET street combo (buy a couple pounds), and there's plenty of section width/contact patch for your power level. You can drive to/from the track with either of the above combo's without issue.
 
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Hotrodder

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Great info guys. I'm still planning on getting the driveshaft and the short throw is more for consistency. I nailed my first run on the stock shifter and destroyed my second run haha. They've been on the want list for a while now. Total I've taken my time and bought a lot of used parts to get where I am now and spent less than 800 on go fast mods. So another 1200$ to gain almost 2 seconds for under 2k is pretty damned good for me.

My fastest bone stock run was 14.2 so 12.1-12.5 as a goal isn't too far off. And again for under 2k.
 

Hotrodder

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So about the mickey thompsons..does it matter that the 17" specifically says tubeless? And does the "measuring rim" number mean that's the width wheel I need? Because the 17" version calls for 11" measuring rim..does that mean a stock wheel will not work at what are they, 8"?
 

psfracer

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What tire part number are you looking at?

Measuring rim is usually what the manufacture thinks is the ideal rim width, but there is always a range of widths you can put the tire on.

As far as tubeless--yes, don't run tubes. I don't run tubes in my et drag slicks. The only side effect is I need to put air in them every 2 weeks or so.
 

lindertw

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So about the mickey thompsons..does it matter that the 17" specifically says tubeless? And does the "measuring rim" number mean that's the width wheel I need? Because the 17" version calls for 11" measuring rim..does that mean a stock wheel will not work at what are they, 8"?

like paul mentioned, no need for tubes. I ran the 17" tire on my OEM 17x8 rim - there was a little bit of sidewall bulge, otherwise no issues (pic1, pic2, pic3, pic4, pic5)
 

Hotrodder

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Excellent. I was looking at the only 17" tire listed in the ET street section. That would be ideal because I can get a set of OEM 17" bullits for 60$

Awesome news because I didn't think that would work. Thanks
 

Hotrodder

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Got a pair of 17s for 60$ with mickey thompson et streets like I want but the tires are a little sketchy. I knew that before buying and was going to see how decent they were but for 60$ it was worth it for the wheels alone anyway. I'll post some pics when I get home from vacation but the sidewalls are dryrotting in some spots so pretty sure they're junk.

Also got the mgw short throw on the way now too.
 

Mazztang13

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Launch

I'd most likely switch at the track just to save the tires more. It's about 65 miles one way I think to the track, not sure, just know how to get there haha. So that's too many garbage miles on drag tires for me.
Mickey Thompson ET Drag radial 28"
4.30 gear
MSD 2step
 

terry5357

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In my '06 I was running 12.80's then got 4.10's and went to 12.50's but with an auto. Never got to go back to the 1/4 mile track after stall converter but went low 7.80's in the 1/8 after the stall converter.
 

Hotrodder

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My car has factory 373 so going 410 is pointless and I won't go any higher as I drive the car a lot on the street. With the drag tires, short throw and one piece I should see 12.5ish which is great and once I rebuild the motor years from now I'll go forged bottom end and cnc heads and big cams and be NA 11s which is all I want to be.
 

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