http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70268/10002/-1#reviewTab Here is the B+M 70268 cooler I use. Jegs list it as 13,000 GVW in the url . Jegs also list it as 13,000 BTU.
B+M list it as just 13,000 BTU, no mention of GVW.
Heat exchangers, like radiators, coolers etc, are typ rated in BTU's... or how much heat they are able to extract... ( with a given airflow). I can't fathom how GVW even factors into the equation. If you know aprx how many BTU's you have to dump, you just choose a cooler of at least that size or bigger. I did read that those ratings assume the cooler is in free air, and not behind another radiator / heat exchanger. If you have another rad in front of the cooler, you can typ extract only 70% of its BTU rating. ( IE: has to be de-rated to 70%).
I had a couple of options, one was to toss the OEM auto tranny rad..and replace with a single unit, but a helluva lot bigger. Problem is, the oem cooler is sandwiched between the oem eng rad...and the oem AC rad. There is no wiggle room to play with. So in the end, I thought it prudent to just plumb a 2nd cooler in series with the oem unit. I also looked at the TCI units, but they are all of tube + fin design. The newer bar + plate design appeared to be a bit more efficient for a given size. The T stat inside the B+M runs on viscosity. At low temps, like start up etc, the ATF essentially flows directly from the input to the output. As the ATF heats up, the rest of the bar + plate assy comes into play. In normal operation, around town, it takes a long time to get the temp up to 170 F. I can drive from home to the UPS main office, aprx 6 miles away, and its only at 152 F. But if instead going to the hwy, 3 miles away, and once on the hwy, it's up to 170 F quick like..then just stays at 170 F... cruising in OD, at 1.5 krpm @ 50 mph. Turn the blower on in 3rd gear, might go up 1 deg to 171....172 max.. regardless of outside temps in hot wx. Main thing is works, cheap to buy and relatively simple install.
My issue is starting at the eng, I have the oem eng rad, then the pair of vertically stacked tranny coolers in front of eng rad. Then the oem AC rad in front of the tranny coolers. Then the Roush 18" tall x 21" wide heat exchanger at the very front. Oem power steering small rad ( with circular fins) is jammed tight between bottom of roush heat exchanger..and bottom of AC rad. I replaced the oem upper grille on my 2010 auto, with a 7 bar upper grille ( oem upper foglamp delete). At least then, I could get a lot more airflow through the upper grille. The oem 2010-2012 upper grille is a dead loss airflow wise. It's highly restrictive, and aprx 70-80% blocked. The new 7 bar upper grille works good, way more airflow through the various rads, and also eliminated 2 x 90 deg bends into the oem 'snorkel' that feeds intake air into the oem airbox. Boost went up .5 psi when > 40 mph. A few other 2010 owners I talk to also noted their boost increased with the 7 bar grille installed.
Performance automatic (who makes the deeper tranny pans) tells me that if the temp is 200 F or less, there is no issue. If > 200 F, a bigger cooler, or a 2nd cooler is required. I only saw a max of 205 F in hot wx with blower on, but decided to add the 2nd cooler anyway. I considered it cheap insurance.
B+M list it as just 13,000 BTU, no mention of GVW.
Heat exchangers, like radiators, coolers etc, are typ rated in BTU's... or how much heat they are able to extract... ( with a given airflow). I can't fathom how GVW even factors into the equation. If you know aprx how many BTU's you have to dump, you just choose a cooler of at least that size or bigger. I did read that those ratings assume the cooler is in free air, and not behind another radiator / heat exchanger. If you have another rad in front of the cooler, you can typ extract only 70% of its BTU rating. ( IE: has to be de-rated to 70%).
I had a couple of options, one was to toss the OEM auto tranny rad..and replace with a single unit, but a helluva lot bigger. Problem is, the oem cooler is sandwiched between the oem eng rad...and the oem AC rad. There is no wiggle room to play with. So in the end, I thought it prudent to just plumb a 2nd cooler in series with the oem unit. I also looked at the TCI units, but they are all of tube + fin design. The newer bar + plate design appeared to be a bit more efficient for a given size. The T stat inside the B+M runs on viscosity. At low temps, like start up etc, the ATF essentially flows directly from the input to the output. As the ATF heats up, the rest of the bar + plate assy comes into play. In normal operation, around town, it takes a long time to get the temp up to 170 F. I can drive from home to the UPS main office, aprx 6 miles away, and its only at 152 F. But if instead going to the hwy, 3 miles away, and once on the hwy, it's up to 170 F quick like..then just stays at 170 F... cruising in OD, at 1.5 krpm @ 50 mph. Turn the blower on in 3rd gear, might go up 1 deg to 171....172 max.. regardless of outside temps in hot wx. Main thing is works, cheap to buy and relatively simple install.
My issue is starting at the eng, I have the oem eng rad, then the pair of vertically stacked tranny coolers in front of eng rad. Then the oem AC rad in front of the tranny coolers. Then the Roush 18" tall x 21" wide heat exchanger at the very front. Oem power steering small rad ( with circular fins) is jammed tight between bottom of roush heat exchanger..and bottom of AC rad. I replaced the oem upper grille on my 2010 auto, with a 7 bar upper grille ( oem upper foglamp delete). At least then, I could get a lot more airflow through the upper grille. The oem 2010-2012 upper grille is a dead loss airflow wise. It's highly restrictive, and aprx 70-80% blocked. The new 7 bar upper grille works good, way more airflow through the various rads, and also eliminated 2 x 90 deg bends into the oem 'snorkel' that feeds intake air into the oem airbox. Boost went up .5 psi when > 40 mph. A few other 2010 owners I talk to also noted their boost increased with the 7 bar grille installed.
Performance automatic (who makes the deeper tranny pans) tells me that if the temp is 200 F or less, there is no issue. If > 200 F, a bigger cooler, or a 2nd cooler is required. I only saw a max of 205 F in hot wx with blower on, but decided to add the 2nd cooler anyway. I considered it cheap insurance.