Spydershaft Driveshaft Install!

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Johnmichael

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Thank you gentlemen. Perhaps Kimmer can update the first post with this pertinent info.
 
J

Johnmichael

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Nice.

BTW, I don't think Bill would mind if you used his pic of the center bracket/bolts.
 

2MFF

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Hey guys,

I just did the install yesterday along with changing from BMR adj LCAs with Poly/spherical to BMR adj LCAs with spherical/spherical and adding BMR relocation brackets and I have a slight vibration at around 2500 rpm. I can fell the vibration through the gas pedal, but not really in the seat or body of the car. I took the car up to about 80 mph and seems OK, but there is just a slight vibration at around 2500. I also spun it to 6000 rpm while on jack stands and there were no noises, vibrations, etc. Had people watching from the outside and they said everything looked solid.

I also noticed today when I got under there that the gray plastic seal on the back of the pinion flange supplied with the Spydershaft seems to rotate freely independent of the flange (I can turn it by hand while under the car). It also is not fully seated into the housing. There is approximately a 1/16" gap, despite torquing the pinion nut to 140 ft/lbs.

So, my questions are:
1. Any ideas on what to check for the vibration? Could the flanges not be perfectly mated?
2. Is that normal for that seal? Should it be fully seated? Is it OK that it rotates freely? I this a sign that the pinion nut did not get installed correctly?

Additional info:
Pinion angle is set at -2 using the BMR adj UCA
LCAs are equal lengths, springs are straight, wheels are centered in the wheel wells fore-aft and tire to body.
No leaks even after 30 min test drive and letting it sit backed into the driveway

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions
 

spyder7724

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Hey guys,

I just did the install yesterday along with changing from BMR adj LCAs with Poly/spherical to BMR adj LCAs with spherical/spherical and adding BMR relocation brackets and I have a slight vibration at around 2500 rpm. I can fell the vibration through the gas pedal, but not really in the seat or body of the car. I took the car up to about 80 mph and seems OK, but there is just a slight vibration at around 2500. I also spun it to 6000 rpm while on jack stands and there were no noises, vibrations, etc. Had people watching from the outside and they said everything looked solid.

I also noticed today when I got under there that the gray plastic seal on the back of the pinion flange supplied with the Spydershaft seems to rotate freely independent of the flange (I can turn it by hand while under the car). It also is not fully seated into the housing. There is approximately a 1/16" gap, despite torquing the pinion nut to 140 ft/lbs.

So, my questions are:
1. Any ideas on what to check for the vibration? Could the flanges not be perfectly mated?
2. Is that normal for that seal? Should it be fully seated? Is it OK that it rotates freely? I this a sign that the pinion nut did not get installed correctly?

Additional info:
Pinion angle is set at -2 using the BMR adj UCA
LCAs are equal lengths, springs are straight, wheels are centered in the wheel wells fore-aft and tire to body.
No leaks even after 30 min test drive and letting it sit backed into the driveway

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions
Is the vibration while in gear or nuetral at 2500? If so which gear?
Also you have to realize that you have now eliminated nearly all of Fords NVH reducing measures at once so you are no doubt going to feel engine and road noise much more than before.
The gray thing is an oil slinger and doesn't really do much and it sounds like it's in the correct position. It usually doesn't seat up against the seal so from what it sounds like it is in the correct position and you have no leaks so thats good.
 

LSlayer

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The oil slinger isn't supposed to seat all the way I believe. If they did they would chaff against the yoke and eventually wear away. Mine isn't seated all the way nor are two other peoples I can think of.
 

scramblr

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The oil slinger isn't supposed to seat all the way I believe. If they did they would chaff against the yoke and eventually wear away. Mine isn't seated all the way nor are two other peoples I can think of.

+1..............
 

2MFF

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Is the vibration while in gear or nuetral at 2500? If so which gear?
Also you have to realize that you have now eliminated nearly all of Fords NVH reducing measures at once so you are no doubt going to feel engine and road noise much more than before.
The gray thing is an oil slinger and doesn't really do much and it sounds like it's in the correct position. It usually doesn't seat up against the seal so from what it sounds like it is in the correct position and you have no leaks so thats good.

Thanks for the reply. It's nice to have a forum with knowledgeable people that respond (Hopefully you all wont "move" again to another forum ;) ), but it is even better when the manufacturer steps up :clap:

I think you are right about feeling more road vibration. I went for another test run and then removed and re-mounted the wheels to make they were seated/torqued properly. I went for yet another run and it seems to be less. It would make sense that since the LCAs are solid now, they are angled to give maximum acceleration, and the drive shaft/pinion angle are no longer "sloppy" that I would feel more road vibration transferred to the body under acceleration. It doesn't seem to do it at all under decel in gear at the same RPM. It would also explain why the car reved smooth and quick while on jack stands.

On the final test run I did a couple of hard launches, held high rpm in second gear and got on-off the throttle repeatedly and there does not seem to be any slop or noise. I will do some more testing on the freeway over the next few days just to make sure all is well.

I also plan to put it back up next week to double check the pinion angle measurements just to be sure.

Thank you for the replies gentlemen
 

2MFF

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The oil slinger isn't supposed to seat all the way I believe. If they did they would chaff against the yoke and eventually wear away. Mine isn't seated all the way nor are two other peoples I can think of.

I didn't think so, but you know how it is when you are trying to track down an issue; Everything looks funny! I just wanted to make sure.

Thanks guys!!!!
 

don_w

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It's nice to have a forum with knowledgeable people that respond (Hopefully you all wont "move" again to another forum ;) ),
No one is going anywhere... the patients run this asylum... not some egotistical, power mongering, money grubbing megalomaniacs.
 

MrClean

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held high rpm in second gear and got on-off the throttle repeatedly and there does not seem to be any slop or noise.

I also plan to put it back up next week to double check the pinion angle measurements just to be sure.

Thank you for the replies gentlemen

I've got the regular slack you feel when you get on/off the gas at parking lot speeds...but I guess there's no getting rid of that....my C5 did it, my F-150 did it, my Viper GTS did it, and (sigh) my S197 does it.

Are the pinion angle finders cheap? I need to get me one a dem.
 

scramblr

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I've got the regular slack you feel when you get on/off the gas at parking lot speeds...but I guess there's no getting rid of that....my C5 did it, my F-150 did it, my Viper GTS did it, and (sigh) my S197 does it.

Are the pinion angle finders cheap? I need to get me one a dem.

Anywhere from $4.50 to
http://www.amazon.com/ANGLE-FINDER-...6-7272848?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1186425538&sr=1-12


$99.99
http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-...6-7272848?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1186425595&sr=1-33


I got the $99 for about $30 on fleebay...For you guys in the land of superstores, you can find them at Home Depot and such.
 

MrClean

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Johnmichael

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Need a quick answer guys. Does the flat side of the new pinion flange face toward the front when installed? I have it towards the front but it doesn't sit anywhere near as flush as the stock flange did.
 
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MrClean

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Johnmichael,

There's gotta be a way you can get the clearance to tq the pinion nut...chock the front wheels and jack the rear up...what I do for added security is that I install the jack-stands under the axle, but I leave the floor jacks (I have 2, one for each side) under the jack pointsto where they aren't really taking any load, but they're there "just in case"...but if you can do that, you should be able to get 25º of rotation and tighten till you reach 130 ftlbs...
 
J

Johnmichael

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Johnmichael,

There's gotta be a way you can get the clearance to tq the pinion nut...chock the front wheels and jack the rear up...what I do for added security is that I install the jack-stands under the axle, but I leave the floor jacks (I have 2, one for each side) under the jack pointsto where they aren't really taking any load, but they're there "just in case"...but if you can do that, you should be able to get 25º of rotation and tighten till you reach 130 ftlbs...
I did some of that, except using the axles, it drops the car down too much. There's still not enough clearance. My torque wrench is rather long. I'll just have to remove some exhaust to gain the extra clearance, that's if I can fix the gear/pinion problem.
 

MrClean

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I did some of that, except using the axles, it drops the car down too much. There's still not enough clearance. My torque wrench is rather long. I'll just have to remove some exhaust to gain the extra clearance, that's if I can fix the gear/pinion problem.
Is there a rear end specialist you can call and and ask for guidance? I don't know if your ride's a DD, but I'd rather get that resolved before you drive that thing at all...hope you get this resolved...I'm sure the man upstairs will guide you....
 

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