Discuss.....
NO STROKER
STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD
4.6L 3V
.020 over
heads
cams
bolt-on's
longtubes
etc....
Compression obviously is a must...
I hate to sound like an ass, but if you change the bore, even just .020 over, it's no longer "stock displament".
An option is camming the car to increase the dynamic pressure, getting as close as possible to the static CR. On a stock 3 valve, the static CR is 9.7:1, but the stock cams really yeild a dynamic CR (effective CR based on volume efficiency) of around 8.5 and some of the aftermarket street/strip cams get us closer to 9.1.
If you get a custom ground cam that will allow the valve to close at dead bottom, you could achive full utilization of the volume and the 9.7 CR which would increase your cylinder pressure at ignition enough to possibly make a nice bump in power.
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With push rod motors, we used to shave heads for a slight bump in compression. With the right cam, that would be the mod to make.
We have chain driven over-head cams, which means we don't have to mod rod length, but we may have to go to a larger valve and do one hell of a port job to make up for the loss in valve clearance.
You would need to spec the spark plug clearance too. Spacers for the intake shouldn't be a problem to make. Shaving the timing cover and making new bolt holes would be pretty straight forward too.
The biggest PITA I see would be the custom ground cam, which is a must for shaved heads.
keeping it streetable and the stock intake manifold on a mustang dyno.... no
That's what people said about 400 RWHP, but that was debunked.
116 octane on said motor above and you're going to lose hp.
10.5 or even 11:1 compression doesn't require much octane on an n/a motor. You could probably run that on 91, or atleast with a gallon or two of 100 mixed in. I'd think it'll take somewhere north of 13:1 or 14:1 compression to reach the 450 rwh mark with the components listed.
As for the question, I'd say it's possible, but probably not real street friendly.
I spent some major time looking into race fuel for my NA build. All of the major fuel companies have post on their websites that they don't recommend any race fuels for an NA engine until 12.5:1 because the pressure at ignition will be too low to allow full burn and the burn time would be too slow.
I tried 103 anyway. I was able to lean it our a bit more and bump the timing and make some nice power, but after about 15 passes I had to replace my plugs and O2 sensors and clean all the residue from the unburnt fuel out of my cats.
Not worth it while NA.
here's what i was looking for....what kind of hp is this guy making?
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26061
Mike was banging down killer ET's because his 60' was so low.
He was sportting a 302 also...
ok, so say its doable... WTF is the point?
the cost and lack of street use makes it worthless IMHO. Blower @ 10-12 psi 450-500 whp, simple, easy and street/strip friendly....
K.I.S.S.
Take it from a high HP NA car owner... this is good advice.
What I have spent is WAY more than if I went FI.