2014 5.0 Build Questions

[ViperTomcat]

Hey all,

Looking to buy a 2014 GT A6 and going to some engine modifications, so I needed some opinions. What I was thinking of going with is..:

FRPP Cobra Jet IM
FRPP CJ CAI
FRPP Twin TB
FRPP Cobra Jet Cams (the full CJ cams, not the baby cams) *or* Comp Stage 3
AED Tuned for 91 Octane (best available where I live)

ARH 1 7/8 LT's into a catted H pipe and Borla S type catback.

Now my question is on the heads..

Would it be better to have the stockers sent off to be CNC'd and machined for clearance for the cams or shell out the coin for the Boss 302R heads? Will the flow difference be so dramatic that it's worth the extra $3,200 it would cost?

I'm not looking for huge numbers (IE over 500 WHP) or anything like that. I'd like to get into the 11.6X @ 117-118 range on DR's and still be daily driver livable. The car would have 3.31's swapped in and a 1 piece aluminum DS. TC would come later when funds permit.

Thanks all!

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

Nowhere do I see a converter on your list. That should be first and foremost.

 

[dre256]

The Cobra Jet intake is nice looking but unless your tracking the car a lot on the street it still pulling your power band higher on the RPM range. Not as bad as the Boss 302 intake but your still losing some down low. Power down low is where you want it on the street. If your building an automatic street car, I say save the money on the CJ setup and add in the torque convertor. If you are tracking the car a lot then keep the CJ setup but add the torque convertor. I wouldn't touch the heads at all if its a DD. Just my opinion.

You need to check out his build, as his A6 runs 11.5 with the fraction of the cost of your build
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113854

 

[weather man]

Your 1 7/8 headers N/A might soften your low end up. 1 3/4 would be better, unless you plan going F/I down the road.

 

[2013sTang]

I think the CBJ intake is worth it, I felt a huge difference in the low end over the boss. All dependent on the tune

 

[2013sTang]

I think the CBJ intake is worth it, I felt a huge difference in the low end over the boss. All dependent on the tune

If you need one I have the full setup, manifold, intake, and throttle body

 

[bunits19714]

Well first what is your base elevation-( normal operating air density) this plays a lot with your goals of 11.6-11.7-. You could go there with a simple good tune, good tires, and full exhaust and a mild circle d converter(3c). Save yourself 5000 on all the CJ stuff(including labor) and the car will drive very nice. And I assume you have emission testing since you have a catted h listed. You will not take advantage of any of those cj mods or head mods with out a converter-

Hey all,

Looking to buy a 2014 GT A6 and going to some engine modifications, so I needed some opinions. What I was thinking of going with is..:

FRPP Cobra Jet IM
FRPP CJ CAI
FRPP Twin TB
FRPP Cobra Jet Cams (the full CJ cams, not the baby cams) *or* Comp Stage 3
AED Tuned for 91 Octane (best available where I live)

ARH 1 7/8 LT's into a catted H pipe and Borla S type catback.

Now my question is on the heads..

Would it be better to have the stockers sent off to be CNC'd and machined for clearance for the cams or shell out the coin for the Boss 302R heads? Will the flow difference be so dramatic that it's worth the extra $3,200 it would cost?

I'm not looking for huge numbers (IE over 500 WHP) or anything like that. I'd like to get into the 11.6X @ 117-118 range on DR's and still be daily driver livable. The car would have 3.31's swapped in and a 1 piece aluminum DS. TC would come later when funds permit.

Thanks all!

 

[Five Oh Brian]

I'd like to get into the 11.6X @ 117-118 range on DR's and still be daily driver livable.

You can run 11.6's @ 117+ by spending way less money and time than you've planned. Check my signature for the easy path I followed to get there.

 

[Grabber]

OP - You can get into the 11's without the mods listed.

The mods I suggest you do are as follows: Intake, Tune, Converter, Drag Radials. That will get your car in the 11.7-11.9 range in decent weather.

Now, if you want to go crazy and want to shoot for mid-high 10's, the mods you listed along with a converter, gears and E85, you will get there.

 

[08StangGT_CS]

Your 1 7/8 headers N/A might soften your low end up. 1 3/4 would be better, unless you plan going F/I down the road.

I thought that too but went with the 1 7/8" and didnt see any degradation in power.

 

[Sky Render]

Stupid question time!

I've never driven an automatic anything with an aftermarket stall converter. What exactly does it "do" for you?

 

[Grabber]

Stupid question time!

I've never driven an automatic anything with an aftermarket stall converter. What exactly does it "do" for you?

Allows you to launch the car at higher RPM's like a manual would allow for by dumping/slipping the clutch and in this case, by brake torquing the car.

Definitely not a cheap mod as some converters go for over $1,000 not including install.

 

[Sky Render]

So aside from that, what is the effect of a higher stall converter? Say just driving around on the street and not brake boosting?

 

[Grabber]

So aside from that, what is the effect of a higher stall converter? Say just driving around on the street and not brake boosting?

Better 60ft, holds the power to prevent slippage or bogging. Myth is that it hinders cars on the top end that have them but track numbers show otherwise.

 

[Riptide]

That and it is harder to hook up from a dig on the street.