3v header to midpipe stud thread

[Shotokan1509]

Doh! Meant to put in chat section

I have to do some exhaust work and last time I put midpipe on I had one nut that acted weird, have a feeling the threads on stud are buggered. Is just that stud replaceable while on car (I've had baaaad luck in past on that, but was also high mileage rust trucks). Or does anyone know the thread on the stud? Thinking can I get a hex die in a ratchet and cleanup the threads

 

[slackinoff]

Mine are buggered too. I broke one, then broke it deeper again, trying to replace it. I eventually drilled it out and replaced with a normal bolt. Took all the precautions with deep creep fluid and working back and forth. That was one bitch of a job, but I heard angels sing once I finished. It was worth it.

R.M.

 

[ghunt81]

I can't remember off the top of my head because it's been awhile since I had manifolds on my car, but they are either M10x1.5 or M12x1.75.

Honestly, I think most of the problems people have with the studs (I broke two myself) are caused by the distorted thread locknuts Ford uses there. I don't know if the heat makes something happen to them but I always seemed to be having issues with them binding on the studs.

After the second broken stud, I replaced the locknuts with flanged non-locking nuts and double nutted them, and never had another problem.

 

[eighty6gt]

You're supposed to replace those nuts after one use. Pretty sure I have a spare set for next time I R&R the H.

 

[irishpwr46]

http://www.studfix.com/

 

[Shotokan1509]

I did replace the nuts and still had issue

 

[skwerl]

Ford charges a fortune for those studs. You can get similar studs from NAPA but they won't have the hex collar on them for easier installation or removal.

Here's a pic of a manifold with one Ford stud and one replacement from NAPA. I may have more details or even possibly a part number in my old build thread (skwerl's new hot rod).

And as a side note, this is most definitely tech according to our forum rules. No worries.

 

[Shotokan1509]

Ford charges a fortune for those studs. You can get similar studs from NAPA but they won't have the hex collar on them for easier installation or removal.

Here's a pic of a manifold with one Ford stud and one replacement from NAPA. I may have more details or even possibly a part number in my old build thread (skwerl's new hot rod).



And as a side note, this is most definitely tech according to our forum rules. No worries.

I had actually posted in the picture section by accident and it was moved haha.

Well, the threads were beyond saving.. and then I snapped it, flush if not bit inset. Started to drill it and of course bit walking to edge not center. Remind me why I like cars again? haha

http://www.studfix.com/

Have you actually used those? Expensive, but might be worth it if they work fine and I hit my frustration limit

 

[skwerl]

I made a bleeping mess out of one of mine that broke. I have a few pics in my old build thread, fought it for a couple days before finally getting a hole through it to stick in a regular bolt. Snapped a drill bit off in there as well. It was ugly. Thankfully I had a BMR K member so it gave me a bit more working room.

For as much work as I went through, I'm going to recommend pulling the manifold off the engine so you can work on it on your work bench. But then you have to deal with the manifold-to-block studs and nuts as well.

 

[Shotokan1509]

But then you have to deal with the manifold-to-block studs and nuts as well.

Exactly my thought, I'd turn one broken stud that's decently accessible in to multiple in worse working spot

 

[skwerl]

Some light reading just so you know you're not alone. Pics are gone but you get the idea. I did post the part number for the replacement studs from NAPA, factory studs were over $50 EACH!
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92113
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74402

 

[ghunt81]

I didn't have any problems with the studs when I did my header install, can they be that bad? I did use liberal amounts of PB blaster with extended soaking though.

 

[skwerl]

My opinion after dealing with them was that the original lock nuts threads were distorted enough to sometimes destroy the threads on the studs. I had a couple studs self destruct while removing the nuts even without any undue resistance or torque. The nuts simply cut the threads off the studs.

 

[ghunt81]

I actually meant the actual manifold-to-block studs.

But, that's weird. Mine just completely bound up and siezed on the studs. From there you have no choice but to keep turning and snap the stud.