Autocrossers! What are your off season upgrade plans?

white86hatch

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Now that most of our seasons are done what are your off-season upgrade plans?
I'm changing to Carbotech ax6 front pads and adding energy suspension front control arm bushings so far. Torsen diff and a tire upgrade might be in the works budget allowing.
 

Mark Aubele

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Cobra Jet intake setup already on, Watts going on this weekend, bushings, upper arm and spherical at axle, possibly lowers, buy new inner shells to make the 18x10.5s 11s, likely a clutch as the stocker doesn't seem to like 7900 rpm shifts all that much.
 

oldVOR

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Cobra Jet intake setup already on, Watts going on this weekend, bushings, upper arm and spherical at axle, possibly lowers, buy new inner shells to make the 18x10.5s 11s, likely a clutch as the stocker doesn't seem to like 7900 rpm shifts all that much.

Driven with the CobraJet intake yet? Wondering how the street manners are in the low-mid rpm range with the long runners. Have any before/after dyno runs for torque and hp band comparisons?
 

csamsh

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I think the Golf R looks pretty sweet....I for one am glad that the choices are now Golf R and Focus RS instead of the tired old Evo/STI combo
 

Mark Aubele

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Driven with the CobraJet intake yet? Wondering how the street manners are in the low-mid rpm range with the long runners. Have any before/after dyno runs for torque and hp band comparisons?

I have 3.31 gears and use stock height tires when driving on the street, and I still really haven't noticed much torque loss over stock. I went from a stock manifold stock CAI. The pull up top is pretty addicting. Have not had it on a dyno yet, getting it tuned on a dyno on E85 over the winter.

I did the swap for power, but most of the reason I did the swap is because of the ridiculously short gearing with the MT82 and 3.31s with a 315/30r18. Was just shifting much too often, keeping the majority of torque from 4k on up and the ability to make power to 8000 rpm is what I really wanted.

If I only Autocrossed I probably would've stayed with the stock manifold, it is a pretty pricey swap with questionable benefits but for what I do I believe I will pick up a ton of time. Many situations where holding a gear would drop time but on the stock manifold power drops off HARD above 6800-7000.
 
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cbass

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I haven't autocrossed in a year or two... but I have a watts link in the trunk, and am planning on getting either coilovers, or new shocks and springs over the winter to install in the spring.
 

Boaisy

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I have 3.31 gears and use stock height tires when driving on the street, and I still really haven't noticed much torque loss over stock. I went from a stock manifold stock CAI. The pull up top is pretty addicting. Have not had it on a dyno yet, getting it tuned on a dyno on E85 over the winter.

I did the swap for power, but most of the reason I did the swap is because of the ridiculously short gearing with the MT82 and 3.31s with a 315/30r18. Was just shifting much too often, keeping the majority of torque from 4k on up and the ability to make power to 8000 rpm is what I really wanted.

If I only Autocrossed I probably would've stayed with the stock manifold, it is a pretty pricey swap with questionable benefits but for what I do I believe I will pick up a ton of time. Many situations where holding a gear would drop time but on the stock manifold power drops off HARD above 6800-7000.

Just a heads up, my stock motor blew from running it too much above the 7k range, though I didn't have a Boss 302/CJ manifold. Since the motor was never torn apart here at the dealer (they had to return it untouched for a core charge), I'll never know what exactly failed, but I would advise some internal component upgrades and/or oil pump gear upgrades just to keep your motor from "popping" if you are going to run the stock one up to 8k with the CJ.
 

TGR96

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Install parts that have been sitting in my garage for over a year.

Stifflers weld-in sub-frame connectors
Steeda X1 ball joints and tie rod ends
JLT brake cooling kit
Steeda rear big brake kit
Bob's rear end catch can (hope I can make it work so that it doesn't hit the body under suspension compression)
BMR UCA and bracket
 

Mark Aubele

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Just a heads up, my stock motor blew from running it too much above the 7k range, though I didn't have a Boss 302/CJ manifold. Since the motor was never torn apart here at the dealer (they had to return it untouched for a core charge), I'll never know what exactly failed, but I would advise some internal component upgrades and/or oil pump gear upgrades just to keep your motor from "popping" if you are going to run the stock one up to 8k with the CJ.

Define blew? I realize they never tore it down but what happened to it? Were you riding the limiter, were you using good oil?
 

cbass

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Define blew? I realize they never tore it down but what happened to it? Were you riding the limiter, were you using good oil?
If there's anything I've learned from the oil debate thread, it's that oil is always the problem, except when it isn't, which is also always.
 

Mark Aubele

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If there's anything I've learned from the oil debate thread, it's that oil is always the problem, except when it isn't, which is also always.

Yes I agree that people put WAY too much emphasis on oil at times. But it is a legitimate question in regards to OPGs. Running a thin oil can increase shock loading and shatter them prematurely. It's been speculated anyway.
 

Boaisy

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Define blew? I realize they never tore it down but what happened to it? Were you riding the limiter, were you using good oil?

Wasn't riding the limiter because I knew running it to the moon wasn't going to make a difference with a stock intake manifold.

I was using Amsoil oil, can't remember the weight.

Long story short, the motor completely locked up, and with the help of some "modular motor savy" friends, we probably think that a rod bearing spun (causing the lock), and the motor went out of time (smashed a spark plug). Another guy said it was probably oil pump gears probably failed and possibly caused everything else to happen. It started to sputter like it was going into limp mode, though there wasn't any bad signs on the dash, no smoke, no sounds, or no smells coming from the car. Before I could nurse it back to the pits, the motor just flat out quit, and would not start back up.
 

frink84

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just finished up the whiteline rear sway bar
re-71's on the steeda wheels
hopefully sorting out the rear window tint so i can put the cage back in
 

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