Build thread: Jack of all trades

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
Hey everyone. Been a member here for awhile now but never got around to making a build thread. First a little bit about myself...

I've always been a car guy, and wanted to get into road course racing since my middle school shop class teacher let me be his pit crew on a SCCA VW GTI he ran. I spent many summers at Mid Ohio since it is less than an hour from my house. When I finished college I bought a Nissan 350z and started doing HPDE's. The bug bit me hard and after about 8 or 9 track weekends in the span of three years I was racking up some serious credit card debt. So I took some time away to pay bills and start a family, and ended up selling that car. After 20,000 hard miles, probably over 500 of which on a track, never once had a major issue. 350z's make great track cars.
1930569_673696385005_3748_n.jpg


Fast forward a bit and I picked up a Miata to go along with my beater hatchback. I got into autocross even though it's not as fun and I suck at it, and quickly realized I wanted MOAR POWER and something with a backseat so I could get rid of my beater and just have one car.
10386975_10104517258873925_2709135312327729546_o.jpg


So I picked up my base '11 GT about a year ago and it is absolutely perfect for me. I even DD it through 8" of snow all winter (on snow tires of course) and it works fine. Now that my wife is done with school there's room in the budget for one HPDE weekend a year. Budget is reflected in a lot of my mods, especially tires. I have tried to do a lot of the work myself to save money but there has definitely been some trial and error. Here it was last summer a few weeks after I bought it. Took a $5 Megabus out to Indianapolis and drove it back with a set of 19" rims and tires in the trunk and back seat:
10479159_10100651088869507_3780515314188795043_n.jpg


The car came with a Steeda intake, Magnaflow Competition cat-back (which was WAY too loud for me), and a BBR tune (which had terrible manners for daily driving). The first thing I did was replace it with a tune by Hypermotive, which turned out to be sort of a pirated version of an AED tune. When I found this out I got a refund and switched to a Steeda tune, which makes less power and torque but has fantastic driveability. I then found a Magnaflow Street axle-back locally which mated up perfectly with my OTA pipes and quieted things down a TON.

Initially I was trying to hold off on suspension mods until I took it to its first autocross. I run with a local Miata club and we do autox at a go-kart track, which is great fun but can be VERY tight in a Mustang.
724738277.jpg


After I realized how terrible the suspension is in stock form I started looking for some inexpensive shocks and springs. I ended up finding a great deal on a Bilstein B12 Pro-kit which is their HD dampers with Eibach Pro-kit springs. Also picked up a J&M panhard bar. In the interest of cost savings I did not get camber plates or replace the front strut mounts.

After getting everything aligned my front camber was around 1 degree IIRC so I immediately regretted not getting camber plates, especially since I paid a shop to do the work and don't have the skills or tools to take everything apart again and install the plates myself. I did another autocross and while the car felt a bit better, my times didn't really improve.

Next mods were...
-Whiteline bars F&R
-BMR LCAs (this was a fun install, the driver's side bolt seized up inside the stock bushing)
-Whiteline relo bracket
-Ford Racing diff cover, relocated vent, changed tranny and diff fluids to Amsoil
-Hawk HP+ pads
-Changed one of my panhard bar bushings to rod end
-Maximum Motorsports Camber plates
-18x10 AMR wheels with Goodyear F1 Supercar 285/40 (220tw tire)

I did get some rubbing at full lock with the AMR's so I added some 5mm H&R hubcentric spacers.
WP_20141105_12_11_03_Pro1.jpg


With this setup and the below alignment settings it is very well balanced and I am extremely satisfied both from a daily driving and track day perspective.

Caster L 6.88 R 6.57
Camber L -2.12 R -2.35
Toe L .07 R .07
Sway bars set to full stiff front, 2nd hole rear

The tires surprisingly held up very well at my track weekend @ Mid Ohio and never got greasy. Even the Hawk HP+ pads and Wilwood fluid didn't fade much, probably because the tires don't have a lot of grip. I was getting passed left and right by much slower cars. I was pretty rusty after not being on a road course for 5 years. Also in HPDE3 it seemed like most everyone was on R-comps or slicks.

Unfortunately I am a retard and didn't look at the torque settings for the camber plates. I made an adjustment and used an impact gun on all 8 strut tower bolts, promptly ruining them. So as it sits today I have them tightened down as best as I can but am not confident at all using them in an autocross. So, new parts are on the way from Maximum Motorsports.

And I figured if I am going to have to pay my local shop to redo the front suspension anyways, I may as well do some upgrades since it won't cost me any additional labor. I went ahead and ordered the GT500 struts that Vorshlag uses and will be interested to see if they are any shorter than the HD's for the standard Mustang GT.

The most recent mod was an offroad X-pipe. I have mixed feelings about this and may end up going back to stock. On a daily driver the smell gets annoying and it's so loud my wife and kid pretty much refuse to ride in it. Most of the time I love the sound but it's not worth it. After switching to the X-pipe I installed a Lund tune.

Some notes on the different tunes I have tried:
-Hypermotive (apparently based on AED tune) - Made 387/357 SAE on a Dynojet, however it bucks and surges a little when cold.
-Steeda - 376/346 on the same dyno, same day. Can definitely feel the loss of torque but it drives like stock.
-Lund - Have not dynoed yet but it feels like a middle ground between the above two. Bucks and surges pretty bad when cold but I haven't done a datalog yet to have them adjust the tune. Also have not dynoed yet.

Big thanks to Sky Render and Vorshlag, I have spent many hours reading your blogs and articles and have learned a ton from your experience. Also everyone on this forum for providing insight and advice.
 
Last edited:

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
Also, my car has a bit of an odd past. The guy I bought it from was USAF, stationed in the UK and so this car was actually delivered to England from new, driven around there like this for three years, then brought back to the states after his tour ended. It is a base 2011 GT with Brembos and 3.73's, just turned 34k miles.

10583714.1400625294905.DB5B16C547194F5BADF08B1.jpg


Fun fact, it took a shop 13 hours to peel off all that damn vinyl. I tried doing it myself but gave up after about an hour.

10583714.1400625308921.20817393142A44CEA1E7F91.jpg
 

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
Picked up a set of Continental take-offs in 285/35/18 for stupid cheap. They seem quite a bit narrower than the 295 Nitto NT05's I have sitting in my basement. Probably won't get around to using these until next year at Mid Ohio but they have plenty of life left in them.

IMG_3410.jpg
 
Last edited:

BMR Tech

Traction Vendor
Official Vendor
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Posts
4,863
Reaction score
11
Location
Tampa, FL
Awesome! I look forward to keeping up with your progress.
 

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
Thanks. Noticed my Steeda intake was getting incredibly hot, most likely since the airbox is only a couple inches away from the exhaust manifold. Picked up some inexpensive DEI adhesive heat blocker and it did a great job cooling down my IAT's.

IMAG0103.jpg
 

irishpwr46

Official Site Vandal
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
8,747
Reaction score
61
Location
NYC
what issue did you have with the aed/ hypermotive tune?
 

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
No real issues, it was a little jerky when cold but mainly it was an issue of losing confidence in the tuner (hypermotive). I have a lot more faith in Lund.
 

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
Update, got some new tires put on today. Amazing what an aesthetic difference they make. The goal is to win the Goodguys autocross here on 7/12 on them. They are 295/35/18 Nitto NT05's which should be much better than the 285/40 Goodyear F1 Supercars. Got a killer deal on them back when Discount Tire was running a sale.

IMAG0118.jpg


It still blows me away how high my car sits in the rear with the Pro-kit springs. I ordered some Maximum Motorsports springs and hopefully they will get here in time so I can get them installed along with my GT500 Bilsteins (same as Vorshlag uses).
 

2013DIBGT

I Hate Wheelhop
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Posts
333
Reaction score
1
Location
The Ungreat North East
FWIW..I've recently dialed in a bit more rake on my own car and couldn't believe how much better it handled by doing so. I'm running a 1/2" rake back to front now and the turns that used to cause the back end of the car to slide are now taken with no slide. The car rotates and grips much better now out back then it did before when I had a more level stance.

Hopefully you won't experience those kind of issues by trying to level it out more. I think in my case the more leveled stance put me just under where I needed to be to play well with the rear roll center postion I was using on my Watts Link.
 

GoinDrivin

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2014
Posts
28
Reaction score
0
Thanks for bringing up the rake subject. I was curious if there was a reason for the rake and also why a long of manufacturers sell springs with an even drop (currently looking at BMRs) leaving the rake in the car. i'm going to set the car up for autocross and track days.
 

2013DIBGT

I Hate Wheelhop
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Posts
333
Reaction score
1
Location
The Ungreat North East
Thanks for bringing up the rake subject. I was curious if there was a reason for the rake and also why a long of manufacturers sell springs with an even drop (currently looking at BMRs) leaving the rake in the car. i'm going to set the car up for autocross and track days.

I suspect the reason for the rake has to do with maintaining a proper roll center back there. I know it doesn't look best by having a decent rake to some eyes but from a functionality standpoint it's a necessary evil apparently.

I've seen some cars with a fairly ridiculous rake going on but to my eye 1/2" looks pretty good while maintaining the proper handling of the car.

My car is corner balanced so it does have different ground to fender measurements all around but the side to side measurements are only 1/4" different from each other so it's not visible to the naked eye when viewing the car at different angles.

My current setup is balanced as follows and seems to work quite well:

Driver Front: 27.5"
Passenger Front 27.75"
Driver Rear 28"
Passenger Rear 28.25"

I'll be raising the car at some point about 1/2" higher all around while maintaining the same balance differences. The extra 1/2" of ride height in my case I think will be a bit more functional with the crappy roads in my area.
 

GoinDrivin

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2014
Posts
28
Reaction score
0
Wow! Thanks for all the great info. Granted a nice even drop all the way around looks great but I want to eventually have the car setup for performance first and appearance second
 

jayel579

forum member
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Posts
401
Reaction score
0
Location
North Jersey
Picked up a set of Continental take-offs in 285/35/18 for stupid cheap. They seem quite a bit narrower than the 295 Nitto NT05's I have sitting in my basement. Probably won't get around to using these until next year at Mid Ohio but they have plenty of life left in them.

Those tires have grip for days, I have a set on my car that I run. Though this will probably be the last R-comp tire I run going forward given how good street tires are anymore. I got a brand new from Rehagen Racing last season. Just an FYI, if they are used and as they heat cycle out they will take 2-3 laps to get heat in them.
 

Attachments

  • Conti Tires.jpg
    Conti Tires.jpg
    70.9 KB · Views: 5

mitch

HPDE Instructor
Joined
Apr 14, 2014
Posts
291
Reaction score
0
Location
Ft. Lauderdale
Welcome.
My car is set up for Road Course duty as well.
I've got the Max. Motorsports Street/Track box.. It handles and rides fantastic.

I've used many different race tires in the past, but I got tired of changing tires at the track, so, I am currently running NT05's, drive to and from the track on them as well. Certainly not as fast as slicks, but very pleased with them.

I run the H&R Race springs, and they are great. Fine for DD and great on track, with Koni yellows...

Enjoy !!
 

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
Those tires have grip for days, I have a set on my car that I run. Though this will probably be the last R-comp tire I run going forward given how good street tires are anymore. I got a brand new from Rehagen Racing last season. Just an FYI, if they are used and as they heat cycle out they will take 2-3 laps to get heat in them.

Thanks for the heads up, will make sure to get in some warmup laps before going crazy on them.

Welcome.
My car is set up for Road Course duty as well.
I've got the Max. Motorsports Street/Track box.. It handles and rides fantastic.

I've used many different race tires in the past, but I got tired of changing tires at the track, so, I am currently running NT05's, drive to and from the track on them as well. Certainly not as fast as slicks, but very pleased with them.

I run the H&R Race springs, and they are great. Fine for DD and great on track, with Koni yellows...

Enjoy !!

Thanks! I asked Jack @ Maximum Motorsports about those and he said they were 5% stiffer in front than the MM springs and 20% stiffer in the rear. Don't think my back can take that!
 
Last edited:

SlowJim

forum member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Posts
276
Reaction score
1
Location
56 miles south of Mid-Ohio
One more quick update, ordered another set of rims so I can either mount up my Conti takeoffs or use the NT05s as my race tires and the Goodyears for daily driving.

$557 shipped, brand new, 18x10. I considered going with a rotary forged wheel like TSW but they aren't any stronger than cast, and it's only a 3-4lb weight difference. Not worth the cost to me

sve-1007fd_9292.jpg

(not my car)
 
Last edited:

csamsh

forum member
Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Posts
1,598
Reaction score
2
Location
OKC
TSW are on the heavy end of the rotary forged spectrum I bet...My 18x11 Forgestar CF5's are lighter than my 18x10.5 TSW Nurburgrings. I don't have numbers...but the Forgestar weighs less when you pick it up.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top