Build thread: Jack of all trades

[SlowJim]

Plus I don't want to rev higher than 7kish when I do track days. This is still my daily driver, powertrain warranty intact, don't want to add an oil cooler, etc.

 

[Sky Render]

Boss intake is pointless on 98% of Coyote applications.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

 

[csamsh]

never mind...looking at wrong white car.

To the OP white car- keep your stock intake. Do your diff. The torsen makes a world of difference, especially the T2R

 

[Mike Rousch]

Plus I don't want to rev higher than 7kish when I do track days. This is still my daily driver, powertrain warranty intact, don't want to add an oil cooler, etc.

Agreed on keeping the factory intake. I would not put to much faith in the factory warranty either, by loading the tune you pretty much voided your powertrain.

 

[SlowJim]

I can return it back to stock (minus the exhaust) in about ten minutes if needed.

 

[Mike Rousch]

Returning to stock will not matter, any dealer can easily figure out that has been done.

 

[Sky Render]

Or you can get an Eaton TrueTrac, save half the money of a Torsen, and not have to worry about launching worm gears into orbit if you go to the drag strip once in a blue moon.

 

[SlowJim]

Does the Eaton really have that large of a durability advantage over the Torsen? I honestly haven't heard a large number of Boss owners with grenaded diffs.

 

[2008 V6]

The 2.7 to 1 - Stock Boss 302 - is exceedingly strong.
The 4.0 to 1 is not nearly as strong.
Both are quite a bit more expensive than the true track.
I could guess as to why but it would just be speculation.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Does the Eaton really have that large of a durability advantage over the Torsen? I honestly haven't heard a large number of Boss owners with grenaded diffs.

Did the non-Laguna Seca get the Torsen as well? I'm kind of guessing that track time for most folks with the Boss/LS involved corners and whole minutes at a time.


Norm

 

[SoundGuyDave]

More appropriate would be to look at the FR500S history. I don't remember hearing about a lot of (any?) diff failures, and those DID use the T2R with the 4:1 bias ratio. Factory-designed race car isn't a bad place to look for build cues...

The whole concept behind the FR500S was as a showcase for FRPP inventory, and they sell both the Tru-Trac and the T2R. Why they picked one over the other is guesswork, but I can't see a reason to pick the more expensive one if there wasn't some form of payoff at the end. Performance, durability, profit? Dunno.

 

[SlowJim]

I think the Torsen was optional on the non-LS boss. Price difference isn't a huge concern to me, but inclement weather performance and durability definetly are, since I drive this car in the winter.

 

[Sky Render]

The T2R is fine for road racing and autocross. It will explode when launched hard:

Contrast that to the Eaton, which is about half the cost and has nearly the same bias ratio of the T2R. And the Eaton has held up to way more abuse at drag strips than most of us are throwing at it.

So, yes, if you're going for max effort on the road course, go with the Torsen T2R. Personally, I do enjoy driving a quarter mile at a time occasionally and would like a more robust part.

As anecdotal "evidence," I have a few friends who race FFR Cobra replicas who have destroyed Torsens and prefer the Eaton unit, as well.

 

[Pentalab]

The 2.7 to 1 - Stock Boss 302 - is exceedingly strong.
The 4.0 to 1 is not nearly as strong.
Both are quite a bit more expensive than the true track.
I could guess as to why but it would just be speculation.

The tru trac has a 3.5:1 bias ratio, which is ample. Roush used it on the their track pack cars around 2007-2008. Roush also used the tru-trac on their 700 hp cars they had at sema.

Eaton makes two versions of their tru-trac, the 31 spline version and also the beefier 33 spline version.

The standard 31 spline version that most have seen use 3 pinion helical gears on each side. The 33 spline version uses 4 pinion helical gears on each side, and is built a lot stronger.

VMP sells both versions. http://vmptuning.com/index.php?p=ca...arch_str=eaton+tru+trac+differential&x=63&y=5

The 33 spline version is $629.99 vs $479.00 for the 31 spline version.
The 33 spine version is a bargain vs the torsen... albeit you require new 33 spline axles.

Add a Bob's auto sports catch can and /or a differential cooler, and that's about as good as it gets. http://www.revanracing.com/products/bobs-auto-sports-axle-reservoir.html

I use my 2010 with the 3 pinion tru-trac all year round, and it works good in the rain. The tru trac + WL watts link were installed on
the same day. It would take a lot to bust a standard tru trac. The beefier 4 pinion version is virtually indestructible. if you really wanted to go crazy, you could weld the axle tubes and /or install an axle brace.

 

[Sky Render]

The tru trac has a 3.5:1 bias ratio, which is ample. Roush used it on the their track pack cars around 2007-2008. Roush also used the tru-trac on their 700 hp cars they had at sema.

Eaton makes two versions of their tru-trac, the 31 spline version and also the beefier 33 spline version.

The standard 31 spline version that most have seen use 3 pinion helical gears on each side. The 33 spline version uses 4 pinion helical gears on each side, and is built a lot stronger.

VMP sells both versions. http://vmptuning.com/index.php?p=ca...arch_str=eaton+tru+trac+differential&x=63&y=5

The 33 spline version is $629.99 vs $479.00 for the 31 spline version.
The 33 spine version is a bargain vs the torsen... albeit you require new 33 spline axles.

Add a Bob's auto sports catch can and /or a differential cooler, and that's about as good as it gets. http://www.revanracing.com/products/bobs-auto-sports-axle-reservoir.html

I use my 2010 with the 3 pinion tru-trac all year round, and it works good in the rain. The tru trac + WL watts link were installed on
the same day. It would take a lot to bust a standard tru trac. The beefier 4 pinion version is virtually indestructible. if you really wanted to go crazy, you could weld the axle tubes and /or install an axle brace.

The TrueTrac also requires no friction modifier and conventional "dino" oil, so it saves money in upkeep as well. The only disadvantage I've found with the TrueTrac is noise. But whatever, right? Because racecar.

 

[Pentalab]

I don't hear any noise on mine, dead quiet. I do hear something, barely audible, when coasting up to a stop sign.

 

[SlowJim]

I use my 2010 with the 3 pinion tru-trac all year round, and it works good in the rain. The tru trac + WL watts link were installed on the same day.

Thanks for that feedback. Good to know I have a couple of good options.

 

[Pentalab]

Thanks for that feedback. Good to know I have a couple of good options.

The tru-trac operates superb...it's transparent on how it transfers tq back and forth to the wheel with the most traction. You can really power out of corners.

The catch can for the rear axle is a must. Otherwise you will end up losing gear oil via the axle vent. (driver's side on a 11-14). Aside from oil all over the axle, lose enough, and you will cook / trash the rear end. Ring /pinion /differential /axles.

 

[SlowJim]

Autox season update... FSB was making noise again so I tightened it all up as much as I could but couldn't get a torque wrench in there, and the small nut you have to hold as you tighten the main nut is pretty much stripped. I would use loc-tite but I need to be able to set the bar to full soft for street driving after autox season ends. I think the winter corrosion is causing the heim joints to bind as well so I may be due for some new front end links soon.

Did pretty well this weekend and tightening the bar silenced the noise I was getting over bumps. Now I am getting a noise with steering input but it goes away after the autocross is over, so I am thinking it is heat-related.

Results (my class is "legends" - I included the winners of the other classes for comparison)...

Car Class Fastest Time
Z06 Leaders 46.524
1999 Mazda Miata Unlimited 47.621
2001 Mazda Miata Modified 49.091
1987 Toyota Corolla Legends 49.828
2006 Mazda MX-5 Street Stock 50.189
2013 VW GTI Legends 50.538
Dodge Neon Legends 50.653
2011 Mustang GT Legends 50.817
00 Prelude Legends 51.405
2003 VW GTI Legends 51.416
1995 Honda Civic Legends 52.02
2002 VW GTI 337 Novice 52.383
RXS-S Silver Legends 52.565
2002 WRX Legends 53.517
Mini Cooper S Legends 54.161
2010 Mazdaspeed3 Legends 54.278
BMW 540 Legends 54.556
2013 BRZ Legends 54.826
2012 Mazdaspeed3 Legends 55.297
5.0 Mustang Legends 55.406

4th place in class. I'm actually pretty happy with that since I got FMD (fastest Mustang of the day) again

 

[Sky Render]

Autox season update... FSB was making noise again so I tightened it all up as much as I could but couldn't get a torque wrench in there, and the small nut you have to hold as you tighten the main nut is pretty much stripped.

What bolt/nut are you referring to? The bushing saddles on the radiator support or the end links?