Chris' GT Build

claudermilk

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It's been a while, but this should be a worthy update.

The MGW shifter (2014 version), Blowfish shift bracket, and Whiteline transmission mount bushing all got installed.

They make a big difference in shift precision and feel. Since I installed everything at once, I cannot speak to how much each contributes, but I can say things are much better. I haven't been able to romp on it as hard as I'd like yet, but I have seen that the 2-3 and 4-5 shifts are better, and those downshifts are WAY better. In all, while it didn't get me to my goal of a Miata-like shifter, it a lot closer than it was.

I ran into an issue with the two parts playing nice together which I describe in the BF bracket thread here: http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115963

I think with the WL bushing I may have gone a step too far to racecar. I am definitely getting more vibration particularly in the 2k-3k RPM range under load. While cruising, it's ok but overall probably a little too harsh for a DD.

Pics are on a borrowed camera, so I'll have to post those later.
 

kcbrown

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A common modification to the Whiteline bushing is to cut the center "tongue" off and leave the lobes at both ends intact. Since the problem the bushing solves is the amount of side to side motion of the transmission, the center "tongue" doesn't really do anything. If the vertical motion of the transmission were part of the issue, the "tongue" would help, but the design of the linkage is such that vertical motion isn't a problem.

Try cutting the "tongue" of the bushing off and see if that helps.
 

Wicked GT

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I pulled my whiteline bushing out after getting vibration and "marbles" in my shifter handle. Mine already had the center section removed so it was just the outer two pieces... made a very tiny decrease in noise so I just put it back in.
 

Pentalab

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How did you manage to eliminate wheel hop, loss of traction, with the car lowered, and no lca relocate brackets ?
 

Whiskey11

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How did you manage to eliminate wheel hop, loss of traction, with the car lowered, and no lca relocate brackets ?

Well, part of the wheel hop equation is the factory levels of %Anti-squat so reducing that number changes the way the suspension compresses the stock bushings. It is entirely possible to lower these cars and experience NO wheel hop and only a minor hit to forward traction. I did that on my Mustang the second year I autocrossed it while I was lowered on Steeda Sport Springs.
 

todcp

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I probably should do that at least as a stopgap. I did a harness in my Probe GT back when I was running GS competitively & it helped a ton.

I am looking at the Corbeau hanress bar, and eye bolts like what Vorshalg has done. For the sub straps, I'm looking at the Watson piece--cheap enough that fabbing one myself isn't worth messing with. Not putting a roll bar is not optimal, I know, but I need to keep the back seat usable as well.

You are making some excellent choices on equipment....but....
Please don't add a harness bar and race type belts without a roll cage. You run the risk of the roof caving in on your locked in place head and neck. Not a pretty accident. As a former SCCA racer and track day instructor there in zero chance of me riding in a car with a harness and no roll cage/bar. And if you do decide to run a harness then check with your track event organization to be sure they will allow you to run. The recommendation for a CG lock is a good one and it is what I use as well. With the stock belts your head has a good chance to get out of the way of a crushed roof.

Here is info from a harness manufacturer..
If the car is a dedicated race/track car with a fixed-back (non-adjustable) racing seat and a roll bar or roll cage, a harness is the logical answer for safety. Harnesses are designed for use with fixed-back seats, so if the car has reclining factory seats you should stick with the factory seat belts. Rollover protection is vital when considering the use of harnesses, as a race seat/harness combination will keep you rigidly in place and upright, placing the entire weight of the car on your spine should the roof come down in a rollover situation.
 
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Sky Render

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Most people who autocross only use their harnesses at parking lot events where the risk of a rollover is negligible.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Man, how did I miss this thread? Good stuff in here. :hi:

Don't worry, I've been keeping the rulebook in mind with what I am planning. Notice no LCAs/relo brackets on the list? For Watts, there is Fays2, the new update to the Griggs setup, and it looks like BMR is working on a similar solution.

Right now I am in STU, and most of the stuff I have planned for the moment will allow me to stay there. Not that I really expect to be competitive anyway. I'll likely end up an under-prepped ESP one of these days.

Then, of course, there is now the option to just go to CAM and do whatever you want (at least until the rules get changed & half the common mods get outlawed...).

So far what I have listed should leave me in STU. Besides, like Sky said: they probably won't care what I have since I'll be in the bottom half of the field anyway.

Well you are in luck! Due to a lot of diligent readers here and on some other forums writing in letters to the SCCA many of your concerns over parts have been alleviated (see the STX vs STU vs ESP thread). The following parts that were once banned in STU/ESP are now legal:

  • Aftermarket LCAs are now legal
  • Aftermarket LCA relocation brackets are now legal
  • All bolt-on or weld-on Watts Link brands and styles are now legal
  • There's no more AWD turbo cars in ESP!
Sure, STU still needs a "tire adder" for solid axle cars (Ask for 315s! write those letters!) and the damned C5 Corvette in STU doesn't belong, but otherwise we've made some great progress in the past 9 months. Keep writing those letters.


And while the CAM/MAM catch-all classes are interesting at the local level, you need to realize that once some folks build a full-on CAM build things might get ugly...

DSC_4745-M.jpg

800hp Warren Johnson motored gutted "Corvette" is CAM legal

DSC_4778-M.jpg

Mike DuSold's 67 Camaro with DSE everything and a twin turbo 1000 hp LS V8 is CAM legal

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Our 2011 Mustang with aero & 335s at all 4 corners is CAM legal, even if 600 pounds over minimum weight.

20141001_085854-M.jpg

Someone could totally gut a pony car and make a CAM killer if they wanted...

I dig the class, and have run it myself when I had street tires mounted, but I'd just caution people against building towards or around the CAM rules. There are MAJOR allowances in the ruleset now, and it WILL change when people start pushing the mods in this class - that is almost certain. Read the blog post from last April by Jason Rhodes about his vision of where CAM is headed... the future of this class is both unlimited and unknown.


Do you have the stock engine tune? I've heard oil separators can cause pinging with some tunes. I'm also curious how those lines hold up to full-throttle use. Terry Fair had issues with them "pinching" shut.
Well... :oops1:

That's because Terry was pulling vacuum on a check valve

Yea, I was following some bad advice and not thinking things through for myself and we ended up pulling MASSIVE vacuum on the crankcase, which pulled the breather lines shut. And damaged the rear seal so badly it leaked and we had to pull the transmission to replace it. I covered this in my build thread... so don't do what I did earlier this year.

_DSC7518-M.jpg


The key is to keep the factory routing of the PCV system (pull vacuum one one valve cover and plumb the other side to atmosphere, like we did ahead of the throttle body) OR run it with a oil separator can that is vented to atmosphere (like the 302-S and many other S197 race cars, shown below).

m5lp-1204-05%2Bford-mustang-boss-302-vs-302s%2Brace-engine-bay-M.jpg


You are making some excellent choices on equipment....but....
Please don't add a harness bar and race type belts without a roll cage. You run the risk of the roof caving in on your locked in place head and neck. Not a pretty accident......

Well, this is banded about a lot but have you ever SEEN this happen? In 28 years of doing track events I have yet to see one of these accidents that someone got injured with fixed back seats + harness bar + harnesses. One of my roommates in college rolled his car at TWS 4 times and didn't get a scratch (it made for great video with the vidcam poking through the sunroof!) but I drove through a gravel trap and broke a vertebrae. Meh, what can you do? I have seen people lose control of cars after being fatigued on track all day holding on with 3-point belts and crappy OEM seats, though.

_DSC5386-M.jpg


Of course a roll bar is more acceptable for use with harnesses and fixed back seats, and for track folks we recommend this often - it just costs a few bucks to do this right. You can spend $800 on the roll bar, another 8 hours on installation/welding, then a few thousand dollars on the seats and harnesses.

2DSC_7828-M.jpg


For an autocross in a parking lot you aren't taking that much risk. Honestly I'd rather see this (a quality harness bar) than racing shoulder harnesses tied into the rear seat upper shelf mounts (very long set of belts will have a LOT of stretch). Disclaimer: everyone assumes their own risk, racing is a dangerous sport, don't eat any wooden nickels, yadda yadda yadda.

Most people who autocross only use their harnesses at parking lot events where the risk of a rollover is negligible.
Agreed.

DSC_4743-M.jpg


At the Goodguys events you don't even have to wear a helmet.... I think that might be a little lax, but for the most part autocross events are VERY safe. The speeds are lower and the things to hit (generally a cone) are less threatening. :beerdrink:
 

claudermilk

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Wow, I wasn't expecting that kind of response from my little update on my very mild (for this forum) build thread. :thud:


Have you tried yanking that Whiteline bushing out and seeing if the vibration goes away?
Not yet. I'll live with it for a little while, then yank it. Read as: I have to wait for another free couple of hours to wrench on the car.

How did you manage to eliminate wheel hop, loss of traction, with the car lowered, and no lca relocate brackets ?
Well, I haven't yet. Up to this point I have been running my street tires (Pole Position S-04) and autocrossing, so I'm not doing drag launches. See my reply to Terry below for plans related to this.

You are making some excellent choices on equipment....but....
Please don't add a harness bar and race type belts without a roll cage. You run the risk of the roof caving in on your locked in place head and neck. Not a pretty accident. As a former SCCA racer and track day instructor there in zero chance of me riding in a car with a harness and no roll cage/bar. And if you do decide to run a harness then check with your track event organization to be sure they will allow you to run. The recommendation for a CG lock is a good one and it is what I use as well. With the stock belts your head has a good chance to get out of the way of a crushed roof.

Here is info from a harness manufacturer..
If the car is a dedicated race/track car with a fixed-back (non-adjustable) racing seat and a roll bar or roll cage, a harness is the logical answer for safety. Harnesses are designed for use with fixed-back seats, so if the car has reclining factory seats you should stick with the factory seat belts. Rollover protection is vital when considering the use of harnesses, as a race seat/harness combination will keep you rigidly in place and upright, placing the entire weight of the car on your spine should the roof come down in a rollover situation.
Trust me, I am considering this in my plans. Thus far all I have done is added a CG Lock to the driver's side belt. That is a big help. I did have a 5-point on stock seats with no other supporting pieces in a previous car. It helped hold me in place for autocross, but even running the belts to a rear strut tower bar, I knew it was not an optimal solution.

I will retain the stock seats--in my case the OEM Recaros similar to the Boss ones in Terry's picture. No way will I go fixed-back, 5/6-point and no cage; for one that seems like asking for trouble, and for another I'm not going that hardcore with this car. I'll primarily be using it for autocross and the occasional track day. Since the car is dual purpose & my DD, I won't be trying to go 10/10, but I am aware things happen sometimes. So, this is still in "think about it" stage and the CG Lock suffices for now.

I have heard the warnings and get the logic behind the concern; however, honestly the worst I have seen discussed with S-197 cars is the Autopower cage fail.

Man, how did I miss this thread? Good stuff in here. :hi:
Aw shucks, thanks. :oops: This thread will never hold a candle to your epic build thread, but I do my best. I spend a lot of time reading the other build threads & tech, ask a few questions, and spend a lot of time thinking.


Well you are in luck! Due to a lot of diligent readers here and on some other forums writing in letters to the SCCA many of your concerns over parts have been alleviated (see the STX vs STU vs ESP thread). The following parts that were once banned in STU/ESP are now legal:

  • Aftermarket LCAs are now legal
  • Aftermarket LCA relocation brackets are now legal
  • All bolt-on or weld-on Watts Link brands and styles are now legal
  • There's no more AWD turbo cars in ESP!
Sure, STU still needs a "tire adder" for solid axle cars (Ask for 315s! write those letters!) and the damned C5 Corvette in STU doesn't belong, but otherwise we've made some great progress in the past 9 months. Keep writing those letters.
Yep, I'm aware of that. I wrote in on the LCAs issue, and now have BMR pieces high on my list. That's likely the next suspension bit I change. Which should address the earlier wheel hop question. I also have a Watts link on the list. That is a big ticket swap, so it will be at least late next year before I can do that. I'm looking at what BMR has up their sleeve or the Cortex unit as my most likely route.


And while the CAM/MAM catch-all classes are interesting at the local level, you need to realize that once some folks build a full-on CAM build things might get ugly...

...snip...

I dig the class, and have run it myself when I had street tires mounted, but I'd just caution people against building towards or around the CAM rules. There are MAJOR allowances in the ruleset now, and it WILL change when people start pushing the mods in this class - that is almost certain. Read the blog post from last April by Jason Rhodes about his vision of where CAM is headed... the future of this class is both unlimited and unknown.
[/quote]
Yup. That is definitely a possible issue. Right now in CalClub there isn't much of anyone playing in CAM besides me. There has been a mildly prepared Mopar, and a ProTouring 1st gen Camaro that badly needed driver mod, but I haven't seen them in a while. I'm likely to jump over to STU eventually anyway. For now, I am taking advantage of being able to hop classes to take my runs in the part of the day that best fits my schedule. I don't expect to be competitive (that one CAM win was as much a surprise to me as anyone), so classing isn't a big deal right now. Locally there is also a similar run-watcha-brung class I can jump to; that one has a '12 Boss that runs in it. I think once I get better tires I'll be close to his times--which tend to be just in the lower half of the class.


At the Goodguys events you don't even have to wear a helmet.... I think that might be a little lax, but for the most part autocross events are VERY safe. The speeds are lower and the things to hit (generally a cone) are less threatening. :beerdrink:
GoodGuys is amazingly casual in their safety procedures. A buddy loves to rant about how the PCA time trials he used to run at would not allow anything going on. I've learned to let him rant while going about my business & having fun. They run a stupid-tight course to speeds are not very high, and you're mostly hooning around some ultra-tight hairpins with a really short WOT blast in between. Heck, they even let a fully-occupied Nomad wagon run.

Even at SCCA autocrosses the worst I've done is kill a few cones & give myself a bunch of work on the next wash. The worst I've personally seen is a lunatic in an old 3-series bicycle his car at my station--he was wise enough to bail out and get it back on all four (and I got a really good view of what the underside of an E30 looks like).

So, to the promised images.

All anyone saw of me for a good chunk of Saturday
i-RbNWRQT-M.jpg


Shifter old vs new. It's a shame this will never be seen again.
i-tZGJTQm-M.jpg
i-WGwk8M5-M.jpg


MGW is in. YouTube and tablets sure have changed wrenching on cars--it was nice having their video at hand.
i-mvCWqDk-M.jpg


BF bracket installed. I liked skwerl's idea of flipping the bolts, so I went that route.
i-jhS2hRS-M.jpg
i-nz8vQ9R-M.jpg
 

csamsh

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More comment on the shoulder belts/harness bar/cage/roll bar thing...

Last Sunday, I ran with no shoulder belts. I used the stock seatbelt and the lap and anti sub straps from the harness. Would not be good for a track, but I didn't notice any loss of control for autocross...at least not 70lbs worth of loss of control. I may rig up some harness bar solution, may not. We'll see.
 

claudermilk

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Time for an update.

Santa (wifey) delivered some Roush side splitters for the car and I grabbed BMR LCAs and relocation brackets on the Black Friday sale. I ran into a snag when I realized the spacers for the LCAs were not included (these aret he TCA022 with the solid axle-side joint). Note to self: continute to read all the instructions before install, and verify all parts are present. :asshat:

So, the side splitter install went smoothly and I like the look. I had the rear side splitters bought from a member here waiting for the rest, so installed both.
i-FTTbK4g-M.jpg

It's a subtle change, but visually lowers the car. Yes, simply a cosmetic change, but I like it. I am also planning a GT500-style wing and probably a Boss 302 chin or the Street Scenes one (the one w/o fake turnbuckles).

The BMR parts were a bit less simple. I'm not breaking any new ground with these popular parts, so not much loss with no pics. I did manage to tweak the brackets a bit before realizing my mistake. Dumbass move on my part, and it took a section of 1/2" all-thread and some nuts & washers to fix that. Now it's all together.
i-n22fFNs-M.jpg

i-3jp83VJ-M.jpg

...and a view of the all-important spacers
i-cL6CGD8-M.jpg

I also got to try out the camera in the new Droid Turbo. It did good, IMHO.
 

Sky Render

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I think you'll be quite surprised with the handling characteristics of those anti-squat brackets. The only way I can describe it is that it makes the car "feel smaller."

Also, you should've gotten red, because red is faster. :chairfall:
 

speedform

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Yea, those LCA and brackets are a bit of a pita to install. I used a come along to drag the axle back into position. Kept the cursing to a minimum.
 

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claudermilk

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I think you'll be quite surprised with the handling characteristics of those anti-squat brackets. The only way I can describe it is that it makes the car "feel smaller."

Also, you should've gotten red, because red is faster. :chairfall:
So far with just street driving, I am liking it. It's a subtle change, but the rear end does feel more planted. There is certainly zero hint of hop. Since I had the stock LCAs on for a couple of weeks with the brackets, and now the BMR ones on, I got the opportunity to compare and the BMR pieces do settle things down noticeably--a slight feeling of a shimmy due to sloppy bushings is gone with the urethane/solid combo. The only NVH is I do occasionally hear driveline clunks from shifting that were damped out with the OEM rubber.

I thought about the read, but decided to go more stealth.

Yea, those LCA and brackets are a bit of a pita to install. I used a come along to drag the axle back into position. Kept the cursing to a minimum.
Yes, they are. Fortunately I was able to muscle everything into place. I almost had to call in a second set of hands, but manged on my own.
 

Sky Render

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A come-along? Holy crap, I just used a big freaking screwdriver as a pry bar to maneuver it back into place.
 

Whiskey11

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A come-along? Holy crap, I just used a big freaking screwdriver as a pry bar to maneuver it back into place.

I think he was talking about putting the control arms in the brackets after adding the brackets, not the brackets themselves. I didn't have any issues with mine and did each sides individually but I also have a torque arm to really fight the motions that cause the misalignment.
 

speedform

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I think he was talking about putting the control arms in the brackets after adding the brackets, not the brackets themselves. I didn't have any issues with mine and did each sides individually but I also have a torque arm to really fight the motions that cause the misalignment.

Yes, exactly. The LCA's and brackets were cake but getting the axle realigned was the tricky part.
 

claudermilk

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Mine just required a healthy shove & wiggle. I managed it solo and like Whiskey, did one side at a time. In all honesty, aside from my missing piece mishap, this is one of the easiest mods you can do on a car.
 

Sky Render

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I think he was talking about putting the control arms in the brackets after adding the brackets, not the brackets themselves. I didn't have any issues with mine and did each sides individually but I also have a torque arm to really fight the motions that cause the misalignment.

I was talking about the control arms, too. Then again, I always did it with the rear wheels on ramps as opposed to jack stands, so I wonder if that helped keep it from getting too far out of alignment?
 

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