First 3v build

07_mustang_gt

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2016
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
OK so I am planning a build, and wanna get a little more insight on the when situation. Gonna be using a cast iron 4.6 Romeo block, 3v top end of course. Looking to build it capable of handling 7-800 HP, forced induction, for future plans, so a streetable 5-600 to start. Would like advice and combinations on what works best and most reliable for a daily as well. Stroker or keep stock stroke? I have used engine dyno sims for pushrod engines, as well actual blueprinting that were pretty accurate, but have not located or obtained enough info for the mod motors for programs similar. Any and all advice is appreciated thank you. And if this has been covered before apologies for posting again just point in the right direction thank you
 

Wes06

forum member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Posts
5,383
Reaction score
59
Any reason for iron over aluminum?

Stock crank can do mid 700's, maybe 800's, need someone else to confirm the generally accepted number.

Stroking it will reduce the red line a bit due to piston velocity that will increase for the same RPM. Once forged rods and pistons introduced id actually like to know what most use for red line because Im still using the 6k that I lowered to when I supercharged my stock block
 

BruceH

BBB Big Bore Boss 322
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Posts
13,801
Reaction score
14
Location
Pacific Northwest
There are a whole lot of successful 3v builds on this forum. If you search they will come up.

Good luck. It's not hard to build a 3v, just follow Ford specs and replace the parts that usually break.
 

07_mustang_gt

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2016
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Cannot locate a reasonable alluminum that's not already short block. Being my first mod motor I'd like to do all of it myself to get a better feel, also the bought over built scenario. The block I am getting is short block so I'll just need rods and pistons to get a good solid bottom end
 

Wes06

forum member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Posts
5,383
Reaction score
59
I have a block in gonna get inspected for a friend. If it needs over bore it won't work for him since he already has pistons.

Interested in an over bore aluminum block if it doesn't work for him?
 

07_mustang_gt

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2016
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
I already have commitments to the one I'm getting. What would you be asking and where's your location? That's the other issue was trying to find local and avoid shipping charges
 

swflastang05

Back for More
Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Posts
2,098
Reaction score
121
Location
N. Ft. Myers, FL
If you could source an aluminum 3v block for a reasonable price you would come out way ahead, as they're capable of handling 1000 rwhp, without the additional weight of an iron block in the worst place you could have it, right up front. I paid dearly for the 3v block that's currently in my car ($1,100 shipped) but it was a std bore block with 30k miles on it, I would do it again if I had to vs. iron. I've always been told the stock cranks can do 700rwhp so if that works for your goal, you could save some money and reuse the stock crank, just get some good rods and pistons. Building a mod motor short block isn't all that different than building a pushrod motor IMO, it's just when it's time to install the cams things get different, but it's very simple when you have it in front of you and you actually do it vs. reading about it. Either way good luck, enjoy the journey!
 

RocketcarX

95% of my weight is fuel
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Posts
2,738
Reaction score
220
Location
Colorado
In houston I could by an entire running used 3v from the junkyards for $700 all day long...1100 for just a used short block?
 

ArtQ

forum member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Posts
1,837
Reaction score
13
Location
Alpha, NJ
Stock 3v block to start. Stock 2003-2004 cobra crank and rods. Pick a forged piston with your desired compression ratio. Plenty strong enough combo with room for growth.
 

46addict

13726548
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Posts
1,832
Reaction score
56
Location
Lawrenceville, GA
The basics are always the same. Forged pistons, stronger rods, and valve springs (stock replacement or aftermarket) at a bare minimum. When shopping for a rotating assembly you'll need to decide if you're staying with the stock bore & crank or going with a stroker setup and that is when details get hashed out. For example there is a difference between plasma moly and stainless steel piston rings and they each serve a purpose. You will also want to weigh the difference between 2618 vs 4032 pistons. When buying rod bearings there are race oriented types and OEM replacements available.

Then as you work up to the valve train you have the option of locking out/limiting the VCT and the route you take will affect camshaft choices. Then you have to choose whether to keep the stock oil pump gears or spend the extra for billet gears which adds insurance.

Here are some build threads below that show how others have done it. These are just the top 3 I can think of. There have been a lot of these from the 2009-14 timeframe.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4543
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103529
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130689

And a general catch-all FAQ for boosting a 4.6 3v:
http://departmentofboost.com/FAQ/gt450_faq.htm

Hope this helps and best of luck with your build.
 

46addict

13726548
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Posts
1,832
Reaction score
56
Location
Lawrenceville, GA
Stroking it will reduce the red line a bit due to piston velocity that will increase for the same RPM. Once forged rods and pistons introduced id actually like to know what most use for red line because Im still using the 6k that I lowered to when I supercharged my stock block

Same. I have heard of 05stroker using a 6200 redline for his big bore stroker setup and I wonder if that is the consensus.
 

swflastang05

Back for More
Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Posts
2,098
Reaction score
121
Location
N. Ft. Myers, FL
In houston I could by an entire running used 3v from the junkyards for $700 all day long...1100 for just a used short block?

Yep, I know guys that have bought LKQ running 3v's locally here for $1,200, but at that time I was in a bind and needed a good block ASAP. Also, I was a bit spooked after having cracked my previous block, that was not a 3v block, so I was willing to pay more for a 100% certain 3v block. Now I have another spare block, just in case, hopefully I won't ever need it!

OP - as stated above, use the sh_t out of the search feature, you'll find lots of priceless info on builds people have done here in the past, some epic fails (including some of mine lol) but mostly good results.
 

01yellerCobra

forum member
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Posts
2,230
Reaction score
158
Location
San Diego, CA
Same. I have heard of 05stroker using a 6200 redline for his big bore stroker setup and I wonder if that is the consensus.

I spun mine to 6500. The only reason I stopped is because I was running out of fuel. It was still pulling like a freight train. I've heard of some guys spinning them to 7000.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top