If you Drag Race, PLEASE weld your axle tubes.

2011/5.0

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Im just amazed that hes twisted axles before and never stepped up to a 9". I would have been to nervous to keep beating on 8.8 with slicks and a stick
 

BMR Tech

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Let me get this straight.

No bracing. No welds. And relocation brackets installed.

Hundreds of passes. 1.3 sixtys.

No failure?

Correct. We do have welded tubes, just not like this thread pertains to. We have tow hooks, and Anti Roll Bar tabs welded to them. :naughty1:



2011, we won the SST Title (NMRA SST)
2012, we got runner-up
2013, we finished in the Top 15 (Top 10 IIRC. We missed a bunch of races)
2014, we are currently #3 in points.

We run the car in anywhere from 10.50 trim, to low low 10.0 trim....depending on what we are trying to achieve.

The last time I checked our spreadsheet, I think we have 321 passes on the car. I would guess that 290 of them, were with LCA Brackets.....and I have no idea the breakdown of the 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 and 1.6 sixties, etc.

Again, I attribute this to having an auto, and "dead hooking". I don't think we have spun a tire in the last 4 years. ***Spinning, believe it or not, IMO, has A LOT to do with twisting axle tubes.



The issue is, when we race NMRA....the slip won't show a 1.3X because we deep stage. Really Deep. So, our slips show like 1.47 to 1.55 (of course, we do have 1.3X slips, when shallow staging.....but most don't show that)
 

CPRsm

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Most of anything we have broke from axles to actual tubing has been sliping like you said. You get wheel speed going, and the WHAM, hooks. Turbos and lower gearing doesn't help. A little spin and lots of power, the tires instantly gain massive amounts of speed

Putting 9in ends on this one right now. But like the bar under the spring perches. Also helps w the twisting. But we charge more than I see a lot of guys saying they pay to get tubes welded. But use and pricey rod we buy specifically for this job, and tig weld it. That way there is immediate heat for penetration, which is something mig just can't do. If it's not hot enough outside we sometimes need to add helium to the mix for more heat. And this is on a 200amp machine!!!
 

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BMR Tech

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^ Nice!

Glad to see you think our LCA Brackets are stronger than an 8.8 rear housing.

Legit!

lol
 

fdjizm

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I'm going to go one step further on the diagnosis of this picture and lay my head on the chopping block by claiming that the terrible welding is most likely the cause of the failure. On the axle tube as it comes from the factory, there is no inherent weak spot right where the pumpkin sleeves end. The tubes slip through and are pinned inside the sleeves. I think that not only did the welder not get penetration on the pumpkin with his crappy weld, but he also overheated the tubes creating a weak spot right where he was attempting to reinforce them. The break was right along the edge of his shitty weld and therefore I think having the axles welded improperly (as the images above show) does much more harm than good. I'm not 100% certain but my assumption is that the axle tube may not have failed at that point if it had not been weakened by the heat from the welder.

For some reason a lot of people subscribe to the "just get it welded" theory. I don't think it's that simple.
Hence why nobody is going near my axle tubes with a welder.
 

Clipboard

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so kelly...is that brace going to be out sometime by the end of this year? im really wanting to add another bmr piece before next feb.
 

Bud

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Correct. We do have welded tubes, just not like this thread pertains to. We have tow hooks, and Anti Roll Bar tabs welded to them. :naughty1:


Digging those hooks on the rear housing, definitely going to have to do some of those this winter. Much easier to get to instead of slinging straps around the axle when on the trailer!
 

BMR Tech

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Bud, those are actually our Tubular A-Arm ball joint cups (modified)....lol!

If you want a pair, hit me up and I can get you a price. They sure are convenient, that is for sure.
 

Bud

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May hit you up in a few weeks when I can get under the car and measure the axle tubes. Not sure if the tubes on my 9 are the same diameter as the 8.8. They do look awfully handy. Tired of having to be a contortionist to strap the back of my car down.
 

SSPSTANGBANGER

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May hit you up in a few weeks when I can get under the car and measure the axle tubes. Not sure if the tubes on my 9 are the same diameter as the 8.8. They do look awfully handy. Tired of having to be a contortionist to strap the back of my car down.


My chassis guy uses the d-ring ends off a axle strap and weld them to the axle housing or k-member to just click strap onto to tie it down
http://images.streetsideauto.com/images/bbxc/image/259x192/04224_op_ft.jpg
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/kee...edium=adword&gclid=CPf7tOz25sACFQxp7AodiEwAzQ
 

Diabolical!

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Get them tubes welded:

kb1te9.jpg


This happened to me last Sunday. This was the second rear end I've had on the car. The first one was welded, but became badly bent after a broken axle incident. I rushed this one together and kept putting off getting the tubes welded. Well, now I need a whole new rear end. Again. FML. Anyway, this time I'm doing it right. Welded tubes, spool, 35 spline axles and C-clip eliminators. Go big or go home with another broken rear end.
 

fdjizm

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Invest in a 9" and be done? I would go 9" inch if I was about to be on my 3rd rear end.
Combine the money you spent from the beginning.
On my car it would be total over kill but I won't have to worry about it ever again so it may be worth it.
 
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