It's Happened Twice Now....

bmeaggie

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Just to put it out here.........................

Outside of the advent of the 7-blade cooling fan on the 13-14 GT500 cooling fan to improve low speed cooling vs the 6-blade cooling fan on the OEM stock unit, there is another improvement on the 13-14 GT500 unit that is seeming to be overlooked........

Look at the picture of this fan thru the link that bmeaggie provided in post #37 & you should notice the set of trap doors.....2 on each side of the fan shroud in the lower section.......... These are not present on the OEM cooling fan shroud on the 05-10 & 11-14 non-GT500 S197 cars.
This is where Ford found that w\ the stock OEM cooling fan design when at speed airflow thru the lower 15%-20% of the radiator (radiator section below the lower hose outlet) gets somewhat impeded due to air oscillation in this area while the cooling fan is windmilling thus reducing some overall radiator cooling capacity so Ford engineers designed these trap doors into this 13-14 cooling fan shroud to alleviate this issue by giving the air in this section another way out of the shroud instead of going thru the fan so the lower 15%-20% of the radiator's cooling capacity can be fully achieved at speed but will close up & reseal the shroud to alleviate air recirculation back into the shroud so the 7-blade cooling fan can retain maximum air draw thru the radiator\condenser\intercooler at low speeds.

It is these trap doors along w\ the 7-blade fan that gives this 13-14 GT500 cooling fan assembly (M-8C607-MSVT) it's superior overall cooling advantage vs the OEM design.........

After all they were trying to keep a 5.8L 662hp SC'd 4V Trinity Modular V8 cool using the same OEM sized radiator dimension-wise....... With the 4.6L 3V\Coyote Modulars this wasn't considered to be an issue cooling wise........but w\ this 13-14 GT500 cooling fan assembly installed in tandem w\ a 4.6L 3V or even a Coyote you will be able to get the absolute best airflow\cooling capability from a fan\shroud assembly on these 05-14 S197's AND retain Ford OEM fit\design.

A win-win scenario IMHO.

This Ford M-8C607-MSVT cooling fan assembly IMHO is tailor made for corner carvers as well as FI...........if getting maximum cooling capacity from your radiator is desired, whether you're using the OEM radiator or an aftermarket 1.

1 more thing to know.......
If you're planning to install this 13-14 GT500 cooling fan in a 05-10 S197 w\ the hydraulic power steering reservoir still mounted on the cooling fan assembly just know that you will need to do a little trimming on a section of shroud reinforcement to allow the reservoir to properly mount to it as this assembly was designed for S197's that came factory equipped w\ EPAS steering racks. Other than this it is plug & play. 11-14 is fully plug & play as all come equipped w\ EPAS steering so no modding is necessary.

Not trying to sell it, just pointing out all the improvements.....................

Ha ha thanks... I’ve always wondered what those little doors were for!
 

07 Boss

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I tell you what my success is with the cooling system is my Meziere water pump. I’ve been in the staging lanes idling and watched my temp gauge go down when I had the high speed manually turned on. I always thought that was pretty amazing. I used to cool my car down between passes in like 15 minutes with the fan and pump running with the engine off. You need a jumper battery ready but you can do 3 passes in an hour before the track fills up. And 13 years of driving in the desert, pretty much beating on her, never had a cooling issue till now. I always will tell people it’s the best cooling mod you can do.

And I didn’t get much done this evening. Unbolted the ps reservoir and both degas bottles. I think I gotta unhook that upper radiator hose to lift the fan out. I can’t remember what I did the last time it was out.
 

07 Boss

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Yeah I was going to get just the resistor but it was almost half the price as a new assembly. Seemed like that issue had problems with the low speed side of things and I know my low speed was working at one point during this diagnosis so I played it safe and just got the whole thing. Could still be just the resistor but I'm tired of messing with it.
 

07 Boss

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Well the fan is in. Started her up with no ac. Car warmed up, low speed fan kicked on. Could not get the car hot enough for the high speed fan to come on but kicked it on with the ac. Idled no ac for about 12-15 minutes then drive her a couple of miles. Pulled over verified low speed fan and high speed fan with ac. Turned her off for a few minutes and let it heat soak. Started her back up. Verified low and high speed fan operation and drove home. Left her idling again for about 10 minutes and everything looks normal.

Of course there’s always that one bolt you can’t find when putting shit back together. PS reservoir is hanging on with a zip tie for now. Lol.

Thanks for all the help guys. Best forum for support around. Always appreciated the tight community here. My stang is getting old and worn. Been thinking about selling her but then I would miss this place.
 

07 Boss

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If you can find a PS reservoir mount for the 2010 GT it will move the reservoir snug against the left valve cover. The rack supply hose is specific also but the other hoses work fine.


All I need to do is go get a bolt. Lost a 12 mm socket in there too somewhere. I just got that damn set.
 

MrBhp

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I went down the same road with mine. Replaced the fan. Thought it was good. Happened again about a week later. The load from the fan is too much for the fuse box. If you separate the two halves of the fuse box you will usually find the wiring around the fan relays is bad. That's why you pull that load out of the box. Run it separately. There are numerous threads about this very same issue. When the oe fans get old the draw goes up. Cooks the wiring. You put a new fan in, problem solved. But only temporarily. And sure, fuses don't "go bad". No shit Sherlock. It's the connections to the fuses and the relays.
 

07 Boss

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I went down the same road with mine. Replaced the fan. Thought it was good. Happened again about a week later. The load from the fan is too much for the fuse box. If you separate the two halves of the fuse box you will usually find the wiring around the fan relays is bad. That's why you pull that load out of the box. Run it separately. There are numerous threads about this very same issue. When the oe fans get old the draw goes up. Cooks the wiring. You put a new fan in, problem solved. But only temporarily. And sure, fuses don't "go bad". No shit Sherlock. It's the connections to the fuses and the relays.

I’ll keep an eye on her. I pulled all the relays and never saw any signs of heat issues. I did find my H2O pump add a circuit looked a little fried and I will replace that later today. I will pull the fuse box and check underneath to see what it looks like. If I don’t find anything do you think I should get new relays? Or should I continue with getting my manual bypass hooked up again?
 

crjackson

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That's why you pull that load out of the box. Run it separately.

Can you give me a search phrase or point me to a thread that shows how to do this modification? I have no such problem at the moment, but I’d like to know how to head this off at the pass.
 

MrBhp

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I’ll keep an eye on her. I pulled all the relays and never saw any signs of heat issues. I did find my H2O pump add a circuit looked a little fried and I will replace that later today. I will pull the fuse box and check underneath to see what it looks like. If I don’t find anything do you think I should get new relays? Or should I continue with getting my manual bypass hooked up again?
I replaced nearly everything while chasing this down, which is against my nature. I'll diagnose until I find the real issue, then replace/ repair the part. Problem I ran into was with that burnt wiring, I was getting a lot of false and or erroneous readings. I would say let it ride, maybe you fixed it. Pulling the fuse box is not difficult. You would at least have peace mind knowing whether or not you're headed for a future problem.
 

MrBhp

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Can you give me a search phrase or point me to a thread that shows how to do this modification? I have no such problem at the moment, but I’d like to know how to head this off at the pass.
I just searched it. Couldn't find a single thread that I used 4 years ago to fix mine. The search on these forums is awful. And Google returns 27 million hits.
 

07 Boss

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I replaced nearly everything while chasing this down, which is against my nature. I'll diagnose until I find the real issue, then replace/ repair the part. Problem I ran into was with that burnt wiring, I was getting a lot of false and or erroneous readings. I would say let it ride, maybe you fixed it. Pulling the fuse box is not difficult. You would at least have peace mind knowing whether or not you're headed for a future problem.

I’m gonna have to pull it anyways cause I’m having other old age issues. Horn don’t work, though I think that’s and inside sjb issue, and I had to run the trigger for my hids off my fog light harness. Just been so busy and I have another build going on, it’s just all this nagging stuff. It goes hand in hand with owning an older car. I’ve actually contemplated selling her and getting another vert. I love the F-Type verts and they are starting to get reasonably priced for older low mile rides. I would only get the sc v6 cause you can get that trim option with a 6-speed. If you get a v8 it only comes with the 8-speed auto. Either that or another little turbo solstice. That was a great effin car to drive after a few simple mods.
 

MrBhp

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I know what you mean about the cars getting older. The wiring is my biggest concern. I've rewired cars before, it's not pleasant. I'm thinking I'll just keep working on mine till it's no longer feasible or possible to fix it. Then I'll make it a dedicated race car. Unless by some miracle the Shelby GT's suddenly become collectible.
 

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