My original question was basically would an engine swap be cheaper than this ticket. The point of this wasn’t to get an on forum diagnostic. Everybody kept asking about the issue and I elaborated as much as I could as I have been busy. But yes the car has issues that need to be addressed but the valve train doesn’t need to be run thru for those reasons.
The estimate isn't high, if you don't want the other parts tell him instead of trying to make out like you're being ripped off. No one is trying to fuck you, the next time you come here looking for conformation why don't you start with the whole story?
I agree, but it isn’t important. My original post was asking if it’d be cheaper to go new motor rather than pay the estimate. The fact remains he including labor prices and part prices for parts I did not need and he never discussed with me. He had my car for two weeks and drove it to town once to do testing. But my first post was asking simply about how much a motor swap would be. If I wanted the forums opinion on whether the guy was f***ing me or not then I would’ve included the whole story, but that’s not what this post was about.
Not really, once you consider miles and the quality of your engine and realize all of these engines need these parts replaced at some point you'll get tired of swapping engines. These things are hardly ever text book, meaning you can purchase that LKQ engine but if the timing guides are worn out or it needs phasers you will still be doing those services to the replacement engine on top of all the other stuff you aren't factoring in like fluids, plugs, broken parts, hoses, etc.
Yeah I completely get that, but that amount of money isn’t in the books right now. And honestly the only reason it’s in the shop instead of changing the timing components out myself is fear of a chipped tooth/metal getting into the oil pan and so on. 1100 for an engine that doesn’t need repair right now is better than a 2400 ticket for repairs on a motor worth less than that. I plan on doing a bottom end sometime next year and a loan will take care of the common wear items and I’ll tackle others as they come up. But the 2400 is out of the question whether they need it or not. The fact remains me and the shop never discussed doing valve train. But I for sure see what you’re saying. It’s just out of the question right now.
Not sure how many times we have to have to convo. The shop never consulted me about changing anything other than timing chain components. The shop was not told to go in to the valve train and mess around. The cams haven’t had enough miles to kill the springs although with certain mileage some will fight. The whole point of this post was not to discuss whether the shop was shite, but about an engine replacement. I do agree that valve springs and retainers and so on would be necessary at a certain point but that wasn’t his job and what was required to fix the job. The car was took into the shop with a problem, the problem doesn’t require going into the heads what so ever. Completely invalid to suggest otherwise.
I had the same problem with my car and it turned out to be a bad upstream o2 sensor and an exhaust leak at the header collector. Aftermarket or not, exhaust manifolds can develop a crack and leak, or have sealing issues at the collector.
Injectors, o2’s and valve train upgrade is still a lot of money to try and rule this out imo.
In my mind, if I chase this down with all that work and still nothing then I’m even deeper into this with a motor worth less than the repair bills.
The codes the car are throwing, and the way the car jumps and skips is all pointing to something in the front cover from all the places I’ve read about or watched videos on. The only codes it is throwing are codes that point directly towards this. I just don’t wanna get 3 grand tied up in this $800 motor trying to run this down. I agree it could be something stupid and once it’s back in my hands an o2 swap and plug swap is nothing since the plugs have been out before. But honestly if that doesn’t fix it it’s coming out
