mrmonk7663
forum member
Alright, so I decided to tackle this install. Got me a set of 1 3/4 Mac CERAMIC LTs for $340 shipped. First off, I have put this off for 10 months or so, but I couldn't take it any longer. I found the kooks install notes on this forum, and went to work.
1. Remove Exhaust...this in itself should be simple...but with only jack stands and limited space, even this becomes a pain. This required me to remove my DS safety loop in order to remove the exhaust. Be careful not to break the nuts to the stock manifold. I use PB Blaster on all nuts that are part of the exhaust. I spray it and let it sit for around 30 minutes or so. I used an impact gun to remove the exhaust from stock manifolds.
2. The fun begins. I read nightmares about the starter and the hidden bolt and bla bla....not sure what the deal is but mine was out in a snap.
3. Next up was passenger side motor mount bracket. For this I jacked up the motor with a phone book on a jack under the oil pan (shame on me) 4 bolts unbolted the mount from the motor, then a top nut and the mount is ready to remove.
4. I removed the rubber motor mount also in anticipation of the new poly mount that is coming. Next sprayed manifold header nuts with PB Blaster. Waited. Removed manifold. So far so good. Get Mac headers I ordered 8 months ago. Find out very quickly I was shipped the wrong part...99+ cobra headers....oh shit. Send out emails....to my relief the company (remember, order was 10 months old) shipped out the correct set the same day, and dispatched a UPS call tag to get the wrong ones from my house. I wait a week for them to arrive....they are here....now to the next step.
5. Sorry folks but unless you have a lift and lots of space, you are going to get scratches on your headers. Just get used to that idea before you install them. I put the pass long tube in place with a mix of stock studs and aftermarket bolts. 7 holes were perfect. top hole by the firewall caused me to use a big prybar to line up. But the bolts all went in smooth, no cross threading. Hmm everyone said the pass side was a pain...seemed easy enough.
6. Driver side time...this is the easy side they say (what the hell do they know!!!) Well, I removed motor mount bracket and motor mount like before. Next was the stock manifold...no problem. Then I tried to install the driver side header....no go...not enough space. I raise the motor more, and am closer, but still no. Could have sworn you don't need to undo the steering column. So I keep at it...header getting scratched up more and more....I've had it by now, and do a quick s197 search. I see references to steering column removal. So I undo the 2 pinch bolts and figure im good to go....uh oh...the shaft wont come out all the way, not enough room...wtf. Another search mentions removing the driver side rack bolt....damn. This bolt is torqued like crazy and fine threaded. Took me a good 15 minutes and forearm breaks to get that sucker out. Then I loosened the pass rack bolt a few turns....now the rack moved backward and steering shaft is hanging...good deal.
7. Attempt to put the header on again. This time it goes in....of course I forgot to have a nut handy so I had to take it down again grrr. Put it back on....only to find that one of the studs is hitting the header tube....down again....remove stud with a 5mm socket....put header back up....now we are looking good. Install the remaining bolts/stud nuts. Tighten all down.....voila!!!! The deed is done.
This has been my experience with LT install thus far. The headers are hung and are snugged down. I'm waiting on the motor mounts before I reinstall the starter and other associated bits. New X-pipe will be here tomorrow.
Tools that helped a TON.
1. Air gun for exhaust pipe
2. Ratchet wrenches
3. Sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2...swivels for all sizes, plenty of extensions, adapters to take 1/2 to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/4
4. STUBBY WRENCH SET...This is a 100% must. Stock stud nuts are 13mm. My replacement bolts were 12mm. Without the stubby set life would suck ($10 at harbor freight.)
5. PB Blaster (rust penetrator)
Other tips
1. Remove both front wheels. This will give you much needed space to work more efficiently.
2. Tighten headers down...let sit overnight...in morning retighten. Once you reinstall the motor mounts you will not be able to access all the bolts for retightening which is why I suggest this.
3. Remember just because you are on your back positioned one way and things aren't going so swell....dont forget to change angles and body positions...even if a pain. Bolts that were seemingly impossible became easy by changing the direction of my body etc etc...sounds like a no brainer but it really makes a huge difference. For INSTANCE> Pass side TOP bolt of header by firewall....seemed impossible from top...went to bottom....painstakingly slow...then accessed from trans area by heat shielding arm outstreched laying feet towards rear of car....stubby wrench knocked it out in 5 minutes.
Good luck to everyone who wants to tackle this job. I have spread this out over a couple weekends because I have the time....but really and truly this a weekend job if a medium pace is kept up and enthusiasm maintained. I did this job alone....no doubt a helping hand would make it easier.
Peace,
Mike
PS...I didn't do the pic by pic deal like some of yall, but hopefully this write up helps somone!!!
1. Remove Exhaust...this in itself should be simple...but with only jack stands and limited space, even this becomes a pain. This required me to remove my DS safety loop in order to remove the exhaust. Be careful not to break the nuts to the stock manifold. I use PB Blaster on all nuts that are part of the exhaust. I spray it and let it sit for around 30 minutes or so. I used an impact gun to remove the exhaust from stock manifolds.
2. The fun begins. I read nightmares about the starter and the hidden bolt and bla bla....not sure what the deal is but mine was out in a snap.
3. Next up was passenger side motor mount bracket. For this I jacked up the motor with a phone book on a jack under the oil pan (shame on me) 4 bolts unbolted the mount from the motor, then a top nut and the mount is ready to remove.
4. I removed the rubber motor mount also in anticipation of the new poly mount that is coming. Next sprayed manifold header nuts with PB Blaster. Waited. Removed manifold. So far so good. Get Mac headers I ordered 8 months ago. Find out very quickly I was shipped the wrong part...99+ cobra headers....oh shit. Send out emails....to my relief the company (remember, order was 10 months old) shipped out the correct set the same day, and dispatched a UPS call tag to get the wrong ones from my house. I wait a week for them to arrive....they are here....now to the next step.
5. Sorry folks but unless you have a lift and lots of space, you are going to get scratches on your headers. Just get used to that idea before you install them. I put the pass long tube in place with a mix of stock studs and aftermarket bolts. 7 holes were perfect. top hole by the firewall caused me to use a big prybar to line up. But the bolts all went in smooth, no cross threading. Hmm everyone said the pass side was a pain...seemed easy enough.
6. Driver side time...this is the easy side they say (what the hell do they know!!!) Well, I removed motor mount bracket and motor mount like before. Next was the stock manifold...no problem. Then I tried to install the driver side header....no go...not enough space. I raise the motor more, and am closer, but still no. Could have sworn you don't need to undo the steering column. So I keep at it...header getting scratched up more and more....I've had it by now, and do a quick s197 search. I see references to steering column removal. So I undo the 2 pinch bolts and figure im good to go....uh oh...the shaft wont come out all the way, not enough room...wtf. Another search mentions removing the driver side rack bolt....damn. This bolt is torqued like crazy and fine threaded. Took me a good 15 minutes and forearm breaks to get that sucker out. Then I loosened the pass rack bolt a few turns....now the rack moved backward and steering shaft is hanging...good deal.
7. Attempt to put the header on again. This time it goes in....of course I forgot to have a nut handy so I had to take it down again grrr. Put it back on....only to find that one of the studs is hitting the header tube....down again....remove stud with a 5mm socket....put header back up....now we are looking good. Install the remaining bolts/stud nuts. Tighten all down.....voila!!!! The deed is done.
This has been my experience with LT install thus far. The headers are hung and are snugged down. I'm waiting on the motor mounts before I reinstall the starter and other associated bits. New X-pipe will be here tomorrow.
Tools that helped a TON.
1. Air gun for exhaust pipe
2. Ratchet wrenches
3. Sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2...swivels for all sizes, plenty of extensions, adapters to take 1/2 to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/4
4. STUBBY WRENCH SET...This is a 100% must. Stock stud nuts are 13mm. My replacement bolts were 12mm. Without the stubby set life would suck ($10 at harbor freight.)
5. PB Blaster (rust penetrator)
Other tips
1. Remove both front wheels. This will give you much needed space to work more efficiently.
2. Tighten headers down...let sit overnight...in morning retighten. Once you reinstall the motor mounts you will not be able to access all the bolts for retightening which is why I suggest this.
3. Remember just because you are on your back positioned one way and things aren't going so swell....dont forget to change angles and body positions...even if a pain. Bolts that were seemingly impossible became easy by changing the direction of my body etc etc...sounds like a no brainer but it really makes a huge difference. For INSTANCE> Pass side TOP bolt of header by firewall....seemed impossible from top...went to bottom....painstakingly slow...then accessed from trans area by heat shielding arm outstreched laying feet towards rear of car....stubby wrench knocked it out in 5 minutes.
Good luck to everyone who wants to tackle this job. I have spread this out over a couple weekends because I have the time....but really and truly this a weekend job if a medium pace is kept up and enthusiasm maintained. I did this job alone....no doubt a helping hand would make it easier.
Peace,
Mike
PS...I didn't do the pic by pic deal like some of yall, but hopefully this write up helps somone!!!
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