Making functional hood scoop.

06Torch

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might do this...

I would like to add the following tips for a cleaner install. I installed my own Shaker hood when I bought my car and would tackle this DIY in a minute.


1) With your hood heat shield off, measure, draw up your opening, and mask off. You need to use a saber saw. This prevents 90* corners. You want rounded corners.

2) Next, use a large drill bit to start off somewhere near one of the corners. Use a liberal amount of masking tape as the saber saw's metal base will be sliding on your shinny hood. Drape the whole hood, frontend, and fenders with newspaper. I hear it's still cheap.

3) Once you have your nice opening drawing down and your starter hole just follow the opening drawing you've drawn for your self on the tape. Go slow, it's not a race. Loosen the the blades rotating function on the saber saw around the corners.

4) Now you should have a nice hole in your hood. Scary. Semi-reinstall the heat shield. With the hood somewhat open, take a Sharpie and outline the hood opening onto your shield.

5) Remove heat shield. Poke a nice hole in it with a knife near one of the corners. Next, use GOOD SHARP scissors to cut where you traced your hood opening. Again, take your time doing this.

6) Reinstall heat shield with all the fastener and reconnect the windshield wiper fluid hoses if you removed yours.

7) You're almost done. Go visit the idiots at Auto Zone or some parts store and find a nice piece of trim. You're looking for one that is extremely flexible. An ideal one would be like the one from a door seal or the kind they use around the edge of a heat shield on an aftermarket CAI (Steeda comes to mind...). If one side of the trim is larger than the other even better!

8) You want the larger side of the trim to go over your heat shield side as its not a perfectly flat surface in some spots. Start in the center rear (or center bottom with hood up). The trim will tend to conform to round corners more than 90* corners. If the trim seems to want to work it's way out, apply a small amount of Marine Goop to the few areas of concern. Make sure the trim is all the way on there before you cut off the excess. You're done.

The above should result in a clean and hopefully professional looking install.
Good luck all,


Gerardo
 

HooDee01

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DSCN1185.jpg


noticed after i put everything back together and went for a drive after about 70mph the rear would flex a little so i replaced the rear 2 clips with nuts and bolts and problem fixed
 

1bad99

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bringing this back from the dead anyone have issues since it has been done will be doing this DIY mod
 

JeremyH

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Zero problems with it. Even at a buck 40 on the track.
 
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mac10chap

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Mine is still going strong. Only thing is when I get going over about 80mph, it looks like it is trying to lift off my hood. Never does but always scares me.
 

JeremyH

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Was the best Free mod I've done keeps the top of my intake manifold very cool.
 

Whiskey11

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Was the best Free mod I've done keeps the top of my intake manifold very cool.

Have you ever compared water Temps before and after this mod? I would love to know just how much of an effect increasing under hood pressure changes how the radiator functions. I still think it is a horrible mod idea if it is just forcing air into the engine bay.
 

JeremyH

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I do have a water temp gauge, nothing changed on it, runs 165-168 degrees on the highway with the 170 t-stat installed and 190 sitting idling where my high speed fan cuts on. Full boost blasts on the highway and no change in water temp.
 

Pentalab

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A fellow over on the Roush Forum did the functional hood scoop mod, aprx 2 years ago. Instead of cold air going into the scoop, hot air was coming out of the scoop ! His original intent was to try and cool the top of the blower. What was happening was the combined airflow from the 9 bar upper grille and oem lower grille pressurized the eng bay. The hood scoop just relieved the excess pressure. Part of the issue in his case was the Roush 9 bar upper grille. Roush claims an extra 65% more airflow with the 9 bar upper grille (which also deletes the oem upper foglamps). You won't get rain issues, since the water is being forced out, not in. The consensus was a functional pair of heat extractors would have worked better to remove heat. They would also relieve under hood pressure, and improve the aerodynamics, and also increase airflow through the rads.
 
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