New COPS.... expensive vs cheapies

deezdrama

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Just got a 2010 gt prem with 80k miles.
Im going to go through it and do most maintenance things now since I like to do that with new used vehicles that I dont know what kind of maintenance was performed.

Ive got 2 vics, a navigator I sold , and an E350 van.... all of them got motorcraft or autolite plugs and cheapy coil on plug sets from ebay. I havnt had any issues with the cheap $50 for eight sets of coils on any of my vehicles but havnt put alot of miles on any of them either since installing.
Ive read before that they all come from the same factory in china as the expensive oem or name brand coils, but then also read about people hating on them.

I plan to do headers,full exhaust, brenspeed tune, maybe cams (although been seeing alot of failures with cams lately and leery about it now) so just wondering if the cheapie coils will do or if I should definitely get better ones? If the cheapies arent good, are there any affordable good ones that dont cost out the ***?

Anyone know offhand what motorcraft plugs I will need? ( not being lazy Ill look, lol , just thought maybe someone knows off top of head) Other than plugs/coils, Im addressing some trans shift flare, and will replace fuel filter, clean MAF, maybe pull TB to clean, maybe dump some seafoam in vac before doing oil change with mobil1 or royal purp. Any other things I should address on this 2010 with 80k miles not knowing previous maintenance?

Dang I just want all this maintenance over with so I can do some fun stuff like exhaust and tune but been working too many hours to have time for anything :banginghead:
 

swflastang05

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I would only use OEM Motorcraft COP's, there's cars making 1000+ hp using those, not so sure about the cheapies for a high performance application. Honestly I wouldn't bother replacing the COP's at all unless you're having issues with them, 7 of the COP's on my car are original from 2005 and have no issues, the one that did fry was due to a bone head move on my part, not the COP's fault. IDK what plugs your heads take since mine are the earlier casting and are different. Congrats on your new car, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
 

RocketcarX

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Change the plugs, Autolite HTO and install new coil boots
Change the oil, you favorite 5w30 (or 5w20, I have my reasons for not running the 5w30 but that's another thread) and a Motorcraft filter. No Royal Purple or Fram, just no.
Flush the brake fluid
Change trans and differential fluids

No seafoam, no injector cleaner, don't mess with the TB, don't mess with the MAF, don't change the coils for no reason, etc.
 

jlmotox

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Change the plugs, Autolite HTO and install new coil boots
Change the oil, you favorite 5w30 (or 5w20, I have my reasons for not running the 5w30 but that's another thread) and a Motorcraft filter. No Royal Purple or Fram, just no.
Flush the brake fluid
Change trans and differential fluids

No seafoam, no injector cleaner, don't mess with the TB, don't mess with the MAF, don't change the coils for no reason, etc.


Exactly! This ^^^^
 

nawagner

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Out of curiosity why not clean the MAF and TB? With 80K miles I'm guessing they are in need of a cleaning. I'd clean them. If you do it right it won't hurt.

As others said I'd leave the COPs alone. They aren't a wear item. They either work or they don't. When they don't replace with Motorcraft to save yourself troubles.
 

deezdrama

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Ok... ill run the oem cops and some mc or autolites.
Ive used nothing but motorcraft filters for years on all my fords, was wondering about mobil1 full synthetic (what i usually use) or royal purple full synthetic (read alot of good on this oil too)

Changing trans fluid and filter as soon as i get a free weekend over 35 degrees.

Ill keep brake fluid flush and rear diff fluid change on my shortlist too.

When my 07 vics original intake finally craped out I put new pi intake on and dremeled the mold seam out of tb and cleaned it and it ran like a new car.
Also have cleaned maf on every one of my vehicles every spring with maf cleaner (no carb or brake cleaner) and had no issues.
Just wondering why I shouldnt clean these?

Thanks for all the replies.
Oh - front brakes are squeeling already. Ive always used waggner thermo quites on my vics.... or should i run some other pads? Id like to get some slotted rotors but have to look into it more
 

RocketcarX

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Out of curiosity why not clean the MAF and TB? With 80K miles I'm guessing they are in need of a cleaning. I'd clean them. If you do it right it won't hurt.

As others said I'd leave the COPs alone. They aren't a wear item. They either work or they don't. When they don't replace with Motorcraft to save yourself troubles.
The juice is not worth the squeeze
 

NUTCASE

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As far as everything coming from the same factory in china, both yes and no. These days you only get 2 or 3 factories that make a part. 4 max, maybe 5 if its a special and popular part.

of those 2-3-or maybe 4 factories in the world usually each one of them private labels. its common these days for a top dollar part with a top dollar name being sold one for $90 in the store and you can get literally the same exact thing on amazon $50 for a box of 8. The problem with no-name ebay and amazon parts is its a grab bag. If your particular amazon vendor pulls from the worst factory in china you might be in trouble.

Also there are some cars that need the TB hosed down every now and then. The mustang is not one of them. But if you really feel the need to do something to your car I guess go for it. I have a gmc with a 5.3 with 160k miles on it and I have been dying to try out MAF cleaner. Probably won't do crap but I'm inevitably gonna mess with it.
 

Juice

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The only time I ever NEEDED to clean the MAF is when I put a little too much oil on the K&N airfilter. If your MAF really needs cleaning, you will likely to get a CEL along with it.

As for COP, I've been replacing them when needed (one at a time) with Autozone/Duralast coils. Zero issues with them.

Oil, I run M1 and Motorcraft or M1 filters. Used to run Purolator oil filters, but Wallyworld stopped carrying them.
 

deezdrama

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Thanks for all the replies...

One other thing I forgot to ask about was changing the plugs. I remember reading about people having hell of a time changing plugs in 3v 5.4 motors. The plugs were snapping leaving half in the heads.
Is this a potential problem I could run into? Any tips if so?
 

Greg Hazlett

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Very similar to the 3V two piece spark plugs, lots of good info in here if you search for it, you tube it and having the Lisle removal tool is good insurance.
 

46addict

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Don't read too much into the horror stories. There is a TSB on this forum that is supposed to help remove the plugs without breaking them. But plenty of guys here have used an impact on them after letting them soak in Kroil or carb cleaner. The idea behind it is to use the torque of an impact wrench to loosen the plugs before they have a chance of breaking.

If they do come apart while loosening, there is a removal tool you can get.

The HTOs recommended above are not the right heat range for an NA engine. The HT1s would work better but you have the newer heads so neither one will fit. What you want is the Motorcraft SP509 or a Champion 7406 gapped at .045.
 

bujeezus

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When I replaced my alternator at 58k miles I noticed my TB was dirty as shit, so I went ahead and cleaned it. Also changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF. Maybe just placebo affect but it ran better.
 

deezdrama

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Thanks guys.
I noticed alot of various parts listed as fitment for 05-09 .... i know in my 2010 the body had some subtle changes and was last year for the 4.6 , is there any differences enginewise between say an 09 and my 2010? I know they upgraded cai for a small hp boost but are heads etc the same?

Ive always stuck with motorcrafts so are the Motorcraft SP509's what i need?
Just planning headers,OR h pipe, cai, and brenspeed tune for now.

Down the road maybe cams and a low boost non ic s-charger if i can piece a kit together under $2-3k.

So for now ... those plugs are what i need?

Thanks again
 

Greg Hazlett

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mid 08-10 are the same, those plugs are fine, if you are going to go boost don't waste your money on cams as the noise cams and boost are not ideal. If you want a little bump in power do the CMDP plugs, CAI headers/H pipe and get a better tune, there are better choices than brenspeed...gear swap to 410 is nice.
 

NUTCASE

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Yeah, about that gear, if I ever go back to a 3v, 4.30s and DRs are the first things getting done.
 

deezdrama

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How bad is it to change gears on these?
Last time (only time) i did gears was probably 15 years ago on a 67 impala 12 bolt rear end. The only part that worried me was setting the mesh or backlash of the gears with shims and that chalk stuff.
I had a gearhead friends dad help me back then with setting the backlash.

I was young then and the internet wasnt as expansive then, i have more patience now but dont want to screw it up either so just wondered if its a possible diy job or something I should take it to the dealer for? I dont think id trust any mom and pop garage over what I could do so wondered how much a dealer would charge.
 

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