Nitrous in 4.0 Questions

[DareDevil]

This weekend im installing a wet zex kit, and just coming upon a few questions before and after im done. I've seen many threads on nitrous but mainly for the big brother v8's so curious too know if anyone can help me out with my 4.0 First off its an 09 Automatic, Simple bolts on, full exhaust, intake and H&R Super Sport springs, tuned by Bama and a 7.5 which has 3:73 gears,T-Lok. Im sticking with a 50-75 shot for now until I get used too it and prepare myself for any upgrades down the road. My question, will my ngk iridium spark plugs survive? and should I spray during 1st or in 2nd to be safe? On street tires I usually don't spin as much and have a 60ft of 2.0 (video/slip at Drag racing section) I will be borrowing drag radials from a friend soon though. I don't have a window switch but not sure if that is a problem for an automatic. I think this is it for now any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated thanks

 

[JimC]

When I had nitrous I had the 3.73's in the car, was running a 75 shot, and mine is an automatic also.

Don't rely on the Zex NMU learning wide open throttle and keeping you from spraying too low (like <2,000 rpm). I didn't have the window switch at first, had the system armed, staged and was bringing it up to 1700 for launch and the NMU read me a WOT and fired off.

So yes, you need a window switch with an automatic - a friend blew his up (another 4.0 with automatic) because the same thing happened to him and the 125 shot was too much.

On street tires you might not spin now but will spin once that nitrous hits - it is instant torque. I used a window switch and drag radials, and had the switch set to open at 2,300 rpm. That meant the car was rolling and right around the 60' mark when it would open up.

I can't help you on the NGK Iridium plugs. I always ran the Autolite 5143 because the stock plug on the 4.0 is cold enough and they are cheap. They held up well to many track passes.

 

[DareDevil]

When I had nitrous I had the 3.73's in the car, was running a 75 shot, and mine is an automatic also.

Don't rely on the Zex NMU learning wide open throttle and keeping you from spraying too low (like <2,000 rpm). I didn't have the window switch at first, had the system armed, staged and was bringing it up to 1700 for launch and the NMU read me a WOT and fired off.

So yes, you need a window switch with an automatic - a friend blew his up (another 4.0 with automatic) because the same thing happened to him and the 125 shot was too much.

On street tires you might not spin now but will spin once that nitrous hits - it is instant torque. I used a window switch and drag radials, and had the switch set to open at 2,300 rpm. That meant the car was rolling and right around the 60' mark when it would open up.

I can't help you on the NGK Iridium plugs. I always ran the Autolite 5143 because the stock plug on the 4.0 is cold enough and they are cheap. They held up well to many track passes.

Great info thanks alot man I definitely should invest in a window switch before I even think about messing with the nitrous.

 

[Nitro Dave]

You need to go a step colder on the spark plugs non projected tip if they offer it for the V6. If you can give me the part number of the plugs you currently have I can get you the info on exactly what plug you should have.

Like suggested above always use a windowswitch. Its cheap insurance.

If you want the system to fuction properly you will need a bottle pressure gauge and bottle heater at bare minumum.

You will need to tune the car for about 11.8 airfuel. Do not just put the system on with sugested jetting and assume its right.

If I can help in any way please let me know.
Dave

 

[DareDevil]

You need to go a step colder on the spark plugs non projected tip if they offer it for the V6. If you can give me the part number of the plugs you currently have I can get you the info on exactly what plug you should have.

Like suggested above always use a windowswitch. Its cheap insurance.

If you want the system to fuction properly you will need a bottle pressure gauge and bottle heater at bare minumum.

You will need to tune the car for about 11.8 airfuel. Do not just put the system on with sugested jetting and assume its right.

If I can help in any way please let me know.
Dave

Thanks alot Dave, I appreciate it

 

[Full_Tilt]

You're allegedly not supposed to use iridium plugs with nitrous as the extreme heat can take the plating off.

 

[DareDevil]

You're allegedly not supposed to use iridium plugs with nitrous as the extreme heat can take the plating off.

Thanks for the info, Im going to order in some spark plugs directly from Zex next week to be on the safe side!

 

[DareDevil]

Got these what do you guys think? and what should I gap them too I don't know if this matters but I have a screamin demon coil with the street thunder 8mm ignition wires as well.
http://www.zex.com/zx/hyperformancetm-nitrous-turbo-spark-plug-set-of-6.html?SID=a054fivdtme5fok9suni7uumf4

 

[Nitro Dave]

I think you should have checked what NGK offered and made sure we were getting the right plug for the job. A one plug fits all is not really what I like to see when in use with Nitrous. Thats just my personal opinion though.
Dave

 

[DareDevil]

So called Zex they ran out of the plugs from the previous link I posted up, and got some info from a friend about some Autolites 5143 or NGK 2683 that are pre gapped at .054 he said these are colder plugs im not in a rush as I still need to finish installing a few more things. Just doing my homework before the final run

 

[Nitro Dave]

I talk to Chris at NGK today.

The NGK 2683 you have listed is a stock plug.

In a non projected tip a NGK BR6EF, Stock number 3177 would be a great option for you. Its only 1 stage colder so it should not mess with drivability at all. Since its non projected tip it will remove the heat from the cylinder quicker.

Dave

 

[Nitro Dave]

They say you can spray iridium plugs with no issue. However I have never seen a non projected tip iridium plug. I prefer to use a non projected tip with nitrous when ever possible. However, with the amount of power the 4.0 makes and something as small as a 100 shot or less having a non projected tip plug will not be as critical as a higher compression motor on a larger hp setting. ( I would still try non projected tip first)

If you are wondering what the difference is between projected and non projected, its the following.

Non projected tip= Porcylyn tip is submerged or even with the base of the plug. Therefore the strap does not reach out as far.

Projected tip= Porcylyn tip sticks out further than the base of the plug. Therefore the strap reaches out further.

The further the strap reaches out, the longer it takes for the heat to dissipate into the threaded base of the plug. Once the heat reaches the base of the plug it dissipate's into the cylinder head.

If the heat stays on the strap to long and over heats you will burn the strap of the plug off. The combustion of a nitrous motor creates more heat quicker. This is why I prefer a non projected tip.

One thing to always keep in mind is that as you increase the compression, base power and Nitrous power you have to increase the coldness of the plug. This is even a factor that needs to be concidered with a N/A combo.

The temperature ofthe plug and being projected and non projected are two differnt things.

Dave

 

[DareDevil]

They say you can spray iridium plugs with no issue. However I have never seen a non projected tip iridium plug. I prefer to use a non projected tip with nitrous when ever possible. However, with the amount of power the 4.0 makes and something as small as a 100 shot or less having a non projected tip plug will not be as critical as a higher compression motor on a larger hp setting. ( I would still try non projected tip first)

If you are wondering what the difference is between projected and non projected, its the following.

Non projected tip= Porcylyn tip is submerged or even with the base of the plug. Therefore the strap does not reach out as far.

Projected tip= Porcylyn tip sticks out further than the base of the plug. Therefore the strap reaches out further.

The further the strap reaches out, the longer it takes for the heat to dissipate into the threaded base of the plug. Once the heat reaches the base of the plug it dissipate's into the cylinder head.

If the heat stays on the strap to long and over heats you will burn the strap of the plug off. The combustion of a nitrous motor creates more heat quicker. This is why I prefer a non projected tip.

One thing to always keep in mind is that as you increase the compression, base power and Nitrous power you have to increase the coldness of the plug. This is even a factor that needs to be concidered with a N/A combo.

The temperature ofthe plug and being projected and non projected are two differnt things.

Dave

Good stuff Dave I really appreciate it, im going to try the non projected tip and see how it goes. Im sticking to the 75 shot until i get comfortable stepping it up with the jets and other parts. Great info thanks again

 

[Nitro Dave]

No problem let me know if you need help with anything else.
Dave

 

[DareDevil]

I talk to Chris at NGK today.

The NGK 2683 you have listed is a stock plug.

In a non projected tip a NGK BR6EF, Stock number 3177 would be a great option for you. Its only 1 stage colder so it should not mess with drivability at all. Since its non projected tip it will remove the heat from the cylinder quicker.

Dave

Hey Dave just double checking this is it correct? And what should I gap them too or leave them alone? Thanks - Carlos

http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=3177&x=0&y=0

 

[Nitro Dave]

The plug comes at .028. You could probably leave it at that. If you do open it up I would not go any more than about .034.

I called NGK to get the answer for you today but Chris was gone so I talk to Jason. He said with the factory plug its .054 and he was not certain what to do going to these plugs.

Dave