NOT Another...Yes...another auotx build thread

foolio2k4

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can someone explain to me why having a "loaded" front sway bar will make the car "push" as described in the first post?

Also, how should the sway bar be positioned ideally when it is on the car? parallel to the floor?

Only reason why i ask is because i realize with the stock endlinks and a larger bar, it pushes the sway bar down close to the control arm, resulting in the same "push" as described in the first post.
 

csamsh

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So, the exact problem I had was that the endlink was too long, and the swaybar was actually hitting my A-Arm when I loaded the corner. Once this happened, the wheel rate would shoot through the roof (I guess) and the result was kind of like hitting your bumpstop. Immediate and incredible understeer.
 

white86hatch

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Here's my potato camera photo of the ridiculously huge spoiler on csamsh's car.
 

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claudermilk

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That'll create some downforce.

So....does it pop a wheelie when you go fast enough?
 

csamsh

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Wish me luck

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csamsh

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I have a set of new stock control arms on the way. Gonna burn out the stock bushings and replace with poly. My current ball joints are getting on in years and I've been putting this off
 

csamsh

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Well...I broke the car. Not bad, but I broke it. After three years of autocrossing and tracking with literally 100% reliability, the first thing happened. My dashboard is lit up- Service Advancetrac, ABS, TC light, TC off light, all of those come on when I turn the key.

Any ideas? I already checked the Ground 101 and it was fine. I'm going to buy the Boss 302R/S ABS unit anyway...so I guess I might as well get it and see if that fixes anything. After that I guess I'm putting a meter on wheel speed sensors.

Anyway, this probably puts me out of the National Tour event in College Station, which sucks, because I was looking forward to it, especially now that the car works. There's no way I'm spending $110 entry, towing 7 hrs, using 60,000 Marriott points and taking a day off work to run with no ABS. Yes it's a crutch, but DAMN does it work. I'd get it fixed but I won't be in town.

On the good side of things, lots of things work now. The strut revalve by Stuart Maxcy at Maxcyspeed (http://www.maxcyspeedco.com/). Is REALLY good. Fantastic job. Great digressive bump curve that builds really fast, and great adjustment range on the rebound. Together with the 800lb front springs, and the ability to run a pretty soft bar up front, the thing turns in now like I never thought it could. I finally got to do my swaybar, shock, and tire pressure sweeps as well. Ruined a set of pretty good A6 scrubs in the process, but I got them cheap (thanks Terry!). Anyway, kind of a successful day. And...I learned a lot about braking.

We ran a test and tune today, and I also got to test and tune Oklahoma SCCA's new timing hardware and software. I'm using AXti.me and Farmtek. Great combo- very user friendly, very mobile-device friendly, and very easy to run. You can see every run, sort runs by car, see class standings, PAX standings, real-time on-course runs, etc, from your phone or tablet, from anywhere at the event site. Pretty slick. If anybody is in charge of their region's timing and scoring system and want some of my assessment of some of the stuff I've looked at and bought, let me know.

Took some of the ESP-illegal and ESP-not helpful stuff off. No more tow hook or awesome 4" brake ducting. Looks stock again :(

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Boaisy

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I had that happen a couple of times, but it would go away after restarting the car. Also it wasn't something that happened all the time, just when I was running hard. I haven't had it happen since I switched off of the traction-lok. I would think all of those lights would be related to ABS, Speed senors, or something putting power to the wheels.
 

csamsh

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I had that happen a couple of times, but it would go away after restarting the car. Also it wasn't something that happened all the time, just when I was running hard. I haven't had it happen since I switched off of the traction-lok. I would think all of those lights would be related to ABS, Speed senors, or something putting power to the wheels.

Yeah. On the other two cars I've had do this, it's always been a wheel speed sensor. Then again, those other two cars were a Chevy Equinox and a Toyota Sienna, and were never within 500ft of a Hoosier tire or autocross course.
 

Sky Render

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Happened to me once when I was doing a parade lap around Charlotte Motor Speedway, at less than 45mph of all things. (Maybe the banking messed with it?) Anyway, restarting the car and driving it normally for ~1/8 of a mile made all the lights go back off.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk
 

modernbeat

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Yeah. On the other two cars I've had do this, it's always been a wheel speed sensor...

I was going to tell you to check and see if you smashed on of the sensors after a hub bearing went bad. See how the hubs feel and then check the sensor ends. The first time we really had a hub go out it took out one of the sensors and gave us a bunch of warning lights.
 

daveyboy

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Find a place with a good scan tool, have them see what codes are in the abs module. If it is a wheel speed sensor the code SHOULD point you in the right direction. Did you already get your control arm bushings in? If so, could it be that EPAS issue I have been hearing about?
 

Boaisy

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I thought the EPAS issue was just a bunch of stuttering, nothing really throwing off the lights?
 

dontlifttoshift

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This happened to me once for no apparent reason. Code read steering angle sensor and the dash was lit up like a slot machine. Cleared code, drove a while, never came back......shrug, I fixed it?
 

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