Removing valve guides

05stroker

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Anyone ever done it on a 3v head?

I need to remove mine for the port work I am doing. It looks like they press in and out. Are there any tricks that need to be done to make it a smoother removal?
 

ummduh

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Not that I've ever done it professionally, but in machine class we just used an air chisel with a mandrel to knock them out. Re installation was the same way.
 

05stroker

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Not that I've ever done it professionally, but in machine class we just used an air chisel with a mandrel to knock them out. Re installation was the same way.

I found something like that on line. To reinstall them, how did you know when to stop?
 

BruceH

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Would an arbor press work? I know it will push them out with the right drill rod size but is it possible to get the head into a normal press? You could use a c clamp with drill rod, just protect the other side of the head. Maybe a large c clamp with the head on a bench so the other end is pushing against the bench bottom? Drill rod stock is readily available from metal stores. One place would be www.onlinemetals.com

Edit: Here's a direct link: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=267&step=2&top_cat=1354
 

RocketcarX

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wouldn't you just machine the exposed part away when porting? Most ported heads I've ever seen or done they were blended into the port job.
 

05stroker

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Would an arbor press work? I know it will push them out with the right drill rod size but is it possible to get the head into a normal press? You could use a c clamp with drill rod, just protect the other side of the head. Maybe a large c clamp with the head on a bench so the other end is pushing against the bench bottom? Drill rod stock is readily available from metal stores. One place would be www.onlinemetals.com

Edit: Here's a direct link: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=267&step=2&top_cat=1354

I have a 20T press here. Just want to be clear about the guides before removing them. I have seen some have lips and only go one way. Ours seem to be the same size all the way through. How do you know when to stop when reinstalling them>

wouldn't you just machine the exposed part away when porting? Most ported heads I've ever seen or done they were blended into the port job.

I need to remove a lot of material on one side of the intake port that is close to the guide and I will destroy the guide. I will tapper them a bit after they are reinstalled.
 

toorbeenee

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From what i know its little hard, The reason i say that is because of the alignment with the valves them self, if you are off by 0.0001 you can bend the valve
 

BruceH

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I have a 20T press here. Just want to be clear about the guides before removing them. I have seen some have lips and only go one way. Ours seem to be the same size all the way through. How do you know when to stop when reinstalling them>



I need to remove a lot of material on one side of the intake port that is close to the guide and I will destroy the guide. I will tapper them a bit after they are reinstalled.

I just went through the manual and can't find it. I'm sure you will note where they are before removal and duplicate the position during installation. Make sure the valves don't hang up or have seating issues and you should be fine. All of the valves are stored in a way you can return them to their individual original locations right?
 

05stroker

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I just went through the manual and can't find it. I'm sure you will note where they are before removal and duplicate the position during installation. Make sure the valves don't hang up or have seating issues and you should be fine. All of the valves are stored in a way you can return them to their individual original locations right?
Yes, all the valves, seals, springs , retainers, ect are all bagged individually and the bags are marked. I would add the guide to the appropriate bag as well so there would be no chance of mixing them up.

I am going to mark one and try to press it out this morning after I make a tool to press it with.

I also have the correct reamers that where used to setup my heads in the first place so I can check the guides upon reassembly to make sure the clearance is correct.
 
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tmcolegr

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FWIW - I would suggest using a valve seat concentricity (run out) gage after installation of the guides to be absolutely sure the guide is perfectly square to the seat and the bore in the valve guide is centered within .001". If it's not perfectly square and centered to the seat the valve won't seat properly. In theory it should be but it's nice to be 100% sure.

Reason why I always grind the valve seats after replacing the guides
 
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05stroker

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FWIW - I would suggest using a valve seat concentricity (run out) gage after installation of the guides to be absolutely sure the guide is perfectly square to the seat and the bore in the valve guide is centered within .001". If it's not perfectly square and centered to the seat the valve won't seat properly. In theory it should be but it's nice to be 100% sure.

Reason why I always grind the valve seats after replacing the guides

Im thinking about having my machine shop reassemble the heads and grind the valve seats for me when they deck the heads. Then they can pull a vacuum on them, check clearances, and test them prior to installation.
 

tmcolegr

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Im thinking about having my machine shop reassemble the heads and grind the valve seats for me when they deck the heads. Then they can pull a vacuum on them, check clearances, and test them prior to installation.

I noticed in your other thread you mentioned using a different head gasket. When the heads are surfaced, what RA micro-inch finish is required for those head gaskets? Is the RA micro-inch finish for those head gaskets different than the current surface finish on already on the block?
 

psfracer

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I know mine had to be machined a certain way in order to use the cometic gaskets (vs just standard Fel Pros) which worked great. 16:1 compression + 200/250 shot of N20 and the head gaskets looked great when I took the motor apart. I forget how "fine" of a finish it was, but it was very smooth.
 

tmcolegr

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I know mine had to be machined a certain way in order to use the cometic gaskets (vs just standard Fel Pros) which worked great. 16:1 compression + 200/250 shot of N20 and the head gaskets looked great when I took the motor apart. I forget how "fine" of a finish it was, but it was very smooth.

That's exactly my point. Each different type of head gasket requires a specific RA surface finish and that spec should be readily available from the gasket manufacturer. Hopefully the head gasket he's planning on using requires the same RA finish as is already on the block.
 

05stroker

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I noticed in your other thread you mentioned using a different head gasket. When the heads are surfaced, what RA micro-inch finish is required for those head gaskets? Is the RA micro-inch finish for those head gaskets different than the current surface finish on already on the block?

I know mine had to be machined a certain way in order to use the cometic gaskets (vs just standard Fel Pros) which worked great. 16:1 compression + 200/250 shot of N20 and the head gaskets looked great when I took the motor apart. I forget how "fine" of a finish it was, but it was very smooth.

That's exactly my point. Each different type of head gasket requires a specific RA surface finish and that spec should be readily available from the gasket manufacturer. Hopefully the head gasket he's planning on using requires the same RA finish as is already on the block.

I will have to check with SCE and see what there gaskets require.
 

05stroker

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I made a tool today and setup my press to do the job. It was to easy fter that. One big pop and they slid right out with the press.





 

BruceH

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Nice. Do you have new guides to put back in? If so are they final size or is that saved for after they are installed to straighten out any distortion that is the result of installation?

What is the advantage of bronze over steel? Lubricity?
 

05stroker

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Nice. Do you have new guides to put back in? If so are they final size or is that saved for after they are installed to straighten out any distortion that is the result of installation?

What is the advantage of bronze over steel? Lubricity?

The same guides will be used. That is why everything is bagged and numbered. After install they will be checked again. They are not very old. If they where new I would ream them after installation.

As for the guides, yes. If sized correctly (don't remember the number off the top of my head) they work very well for my application.
 

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