Road course +boost/na?

[mike4.0]

2006 4.6 3v TR3650
I know a lot will be dependant on the tune if going FI or NA. I'm curious if anyone can chime in about how reliable road racing these cars are when going with say a turbo kit, supercharger or staying NA with some 127500's and LT's. Still a DD car but have a work truck to get me where I need to go just in case.

If the turbo is sized and tuned properly (to be not "peeky" but more linear with power delivery) are there other concerns for this route ?

On3 kit and the NA set up would be the top two based on price unless I can get a DOB manifold up here for a decent price.

I guess I want to know if I'm asking for trouble with FI and all that extra heat/pressure for such an extended period of time

Any help is much appreciated

 

[stkjock]

Road course best to stay NA

 

[Wes06]

unless you go balls out with a stripped out DOB with a spare heat exchanger in the trunk, lol

 

[Stephen31201]

Take it from someone who knows. Once you get good enough to push the car to its limits with FI, youll be FaSt about as long as your first sexual encounter. Ok, it didn't last that long But after 3 laps its a turd. I am getting Lito's help this week switching to E85 to try and help lower engine temps, but IATs will stay the same. Then Ill be off to Dept of Boost to pick his brain on jinormous H/E setup. If you have deep pockets, there is no substitute for N/A Cubic Inches!

 

[hamish]

What about Centrifugal Superchargers?
How do they heat soak compared to twin screws?

 

[NUTCASE]

An old piece of wisdom:

"If you want to make a mustang to go fast around a turn the first thing you need to do is weld the hood shut"

Its way to easy to give mustangs more power (assuming you have the money to do so). This does not help a mustang and GT mustangs come with more power than handling to begin with. All adding power will do is give you more to manage on stock parts and push you further up the class ladder than you are ready for.

1. Tires and wheels first (18in rim and anything wider than stock is a good starting point)
2. shocks
3. watts link
4. brakes
5. everything else.

In that order.
Take if from the guy that did everything else first.

 

[07 Boss]

An old piece of wisdom:

"If you want to make a mustang to go fast around a turn the first thing you need to do is weld the hood shut"

Its way to easy to give mustangs more power (assuming you have the money to do so). This does not help a mustang and GT mustangs come with more power than handling to begin with. All adding power will do is give you more to manage on stock parts and push you further up the class ladder than you are ready for.

1. Tires and wheels first (18in rim and anything wider than stock is a good starting point)
2. shocks
3. watts link
4. brakes
5. everything else.

In that order.
Take if from the guy that did everything else first.

I always tell people to build from the ground up. After many decades of car building and listening to my elders, it is a pretty fundamental rule to successful car building no matter what genre of racing your into.

 

[fast Ed]

And don't forget the "spacer" between the seat and the steering wheel ... good coaching at HPDEs will do more for you than car mods. And it's transferable to the next car you get at no charge!


cheers
Ed

 

[Boaisy]

What about Centrifugal Superchargers?
How do they heat soak compared to twin screws?

Those will heat soak just as much. Everyone around here with a centri (heat exchanger or not) can barely complete a 1/4 mile run without running for the ice bags.

 

[mike4.0]

Take it from someone who knows. Once you get good enough to push the car to its limits with FI, youll be FaSt about as long as your first sexual encounter. Ok, it didn't last that long But after 3 laps its a turd. I am getting Lito's help this week switching to E85 to try and help lower engine temps, but IATs will stay the same. Then Ill be off to Dept of Boost to pick his brain on jinormous H/E setup. If you have deep pockets, there is no substitute for N/A Cubic Inches!

Thats a bummer I'm curious if a turbo set up would result in the same issues. I just haven't heard (or looked crazy in depth) about 4.6 3v road racing with a turbo set up

An old piece of wisdom:

"If you want to make a mustang to go fast around a turn the first thing you need to do is weld the hood shut"

Its way to easy to give mustangs more power (assuming you have the money to do so). This does not help a mustang and GT mustangs come with more power than handling to begin with. All adding power will do is give you more to manage on stock parts and push you further up the class ladder than you are ready for.

1. Tires and wheels first (18in rim and anything wider than stock is a good starting point)
2. shocks
3. watts link
4. brakes
5. everything else.

In that order.
Take if from the guy that did everything else first.

So true about the hood haha
I have 18x10 AMR's 285's square - the lightest, no but just didn't justify the amount for lighter/more expensive at the time.
Shocks I'm shopping around for a (relatively) decent coil over (ST XTA) other suggestions welcome in that price range.
How great of an improvement is the watts link?
Brakes I'm looking into the 2011 + rotor/bracket swap or gt500 take offs.
Lots in the works, I just like to have things sort of planned out so when I see a decent deal, I can act on it.

And don't forget the "spacer" between the seat and the steering wheel ... good coaching at HPDEs will do more for you than car mods. And it's transferable to the next car you get at no charge!


cheers
Ed

100% maybe I'll be able to kidnapp you for a few laps if I can get out to a GTAMC/TMC event this fall haha

 

[fast Ed]

Didn't realize you were a local ... put your town in your profile!

And the TMC / Dasilva event at Cayuga was last Thursday, you missed a great day if you weren't there.


cheers
Ed

 

[NUTCASE]

The watts link has been a source of debate. IMO if you don't plan on racing all the time and want to save a few bucks an aftermarket PHB will suit you. I have an aftermarket PHB on mine and I certainly felt a difference over stock. However a watts link will do a better job of centering the rear and the characteristics of the rear will not change from left or right hand turns.

Also if you lower your car you need either an aftermarket PHB to get the rear centered, or a watts link where you can change the roll center. IMO whiteline has the best watts link.

 

[Department Of Boost]

If you want to be serious at the road course stay NA.

 

[Stephen31201]

Or if you want to be serious at the road course for 1 lap go FI.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Or if you want to be serious at the road course for 1 lap go FI.

Or if you want to be serious about the road course with FI bring piles of money. It can be done, and it can be done well. But it can't be done cheap.

 

[mach828]

Centris are amazing on the road course. NA like power band, and I drove the crap out of mine and it never got hot. Consistent lap times.

 

[Stephen31201]

Did you do so before the e85 as well? Curious if it made a difference.

 

[mach828]

I was on 91. I just swapped to e85 and hopefully can take it to the road course next month. Need new tires for my other rims first.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Centris are amazing on the road course. NA like power band, and I drove the crap out of mine and it never got hot. Consistent lap times.

How much road course experience do you have?

 

[Stephen31201]

^^^ Valid point. When I first started I could go 25 mins and not see any timing pulled. Now when I go I hope to make it back to the start finish line once before it happens. lol. With the help of E85 and a college dorm fridge sized H/E installed over the winter I hope to change that.