Speedometer issue after transmission swap

RetroGT2006

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I recently swapped my 5r55s out for a tr3650 and I knew there would be electrical issues/tuning issues when retaining the automatic wire harness.

I followed the write up online

"There is a plug that used to connect to the rear of the automatic transmission with 2 wires colored dark blue/yellow and gray/red. Cut the wires clean right at the plug and get rid of the old plug. Solder the pigtail you purchased from Ford to the wires. Use the pigtail that has a plug on it that will fit the rear most sensor on the transmission. Make sure you verify the proper new pigtail plug of the 2 you purchased by connecting the plug the the rearmost sensor on the transmission for a test fit. You don't want to have to do it over again because of a mistake. Use heat shrink tubing to seal the soldered connection. After that, go ahead and connect the new plug/pigtail to the rearmost sensor on the transmission. "


I located the last plug on the automatic wire harness and wired this all up and plugged it in. The speedometer still does NOT work.

Does anybody have ideas?
 

BruceH

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Does the auto use a different oss sensor parameter than the manual? I take it the write up didn't cover it.
 

RetroGT2006

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Does the auto use a different oss sensor parameter than the manual? I take it the write up didn't cover it.

I have no idea, the crazy part is 2 years ago when my buddy Pat(VectorPat) did his swap and wiring following the same guide, he had no issues. Could it be tune related?
 

86GT351

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Did you crimp or solder your connections? Own a Volt/Ohm Meter? Pull the plug off the transmission and check each wire for continuity on both sides of your connection. Could possibly be something simple like the connection.
 

RetroGT2006

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Did you crimp or solder your connections? Own a Volt/Ohm Meter? Pull the plug off the transmission and check each wire for continuity on both sides of your connection. Could possibly be something simple like the connection.

I crimped it and then put some shrink tubing on it. The guide said solder but the pigtail from ford came with the little metal pieces to crimp it so that's what I did. I guess I should pull off the shrink wrap and check it out.
 

RetroGT2006

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Will do, I plan to do this around 4-5pm today. I have to finish my Pathology paper and get my presentation ready for tomorrow. Then its car time =). Thanks for the suggestions! Fingers crossed.
 

lito

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Wires are the same and all and use the same input in the PCM, you modded the auto rear harness or got a new manual one? Checked using the DB-YE wire? (GY/RD is a signal return common to lots of sensors)
 

RetroGT2006

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Wires are the same and all and use the same input in the PCM, you modded the auto rear harness or got a new manual one? Checked using the DB-YE wire? (GY/RD is a signal return common to lots of sensors)

Reused the automatic harness, cut the old speed sensor plug and purchased a new pigtail from ford and crimped it together and plugged it in the rear most plug on the manual trans.

What do you mean by checked using the DB-YE wire? What is GY/RD ?
 

BruceH

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Reused the automatic harness, cut the old speed sensor plug and purchased a new pigtail from ford and crimped it together and plugged it in the rear most plug on the manual trans.

What do you mean by checked using the DB-YE wire? What is GY/RD ?

Dark blue with a yellow tracer and gray with a red tracer. Probably.
 

RetroGT2006

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Thanks everybody, I double checked everything and I in fact did have the correct wires for the plug.. Turns out the crimp style method ford tells you to use(comes with the little silver pieces) doesn't work so well. I tore off the heat shrink and soldered them together and it works ;)! Finally my speedo is 100% working.
 

lito

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There is a reason Ford does it this way, if you get to disassemble the harnesses you will find places where they don't even cramp them or even tape the joints and for someone who doesn't know, one would say, what the hell???

Cramping would allow some flexibility that is needed, when you solder, with vibration it may tend to break on the long term. With that being said, I still solder all my stuff.
 

RetroGT2006

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There is a reason Ford does it this way, if you get to disassemble the harnesses you will find places where they don't even cramp them or even tape the joints and for someone who doesn't know, one would say, what the hell???

Cramping would allow some flexibility that is needed, when you solder, with vibration it may tend to break on the long term. With that being said, I still solder all my stuff.

Makes sense I guess, I made sure it was a solid solder for sure. Then heat wrapped it and electrical taped it. Then put the wire loom over it and electrical taped it too so it's covered from the elements.
 

86GT351

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There is a reason Ford does it this way, if you get to disassemble the harnesses you will find places where they don't even cramp them or even tape the joints and for someone who doesn't know, one would say, what the hell???

Cramping would allow some flexibility that is needed, when you solder, with vibration it may tend to break on the long term. With that being said, I still solder all my stuff.

I have also used the Ford connectors in the past and once properly crimped also soldered them. The Metal is soft enough that with some temp it actually all starts to melt together for optimum continuity!
 

2005Redfire6

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I am glad you figured this out as I have an auto PCM for my V8 swap with my manual transmission (Tr3650). Bookmarked!
 

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