Stuck installing koni struts/steeda strut mounts+springs

[2kanchoo]

Hey everyone. So I'm "trying" to install koni adjustable yellows with steeda springs and upper strut mounts. I read a bunch of threads that said instead of a spring compressor tool just put a jack under the a arm, undo the bolts above and gently lower it down. I did that and it worked perfectly.

I put the new koni strut with the steeda mount sitting on top back into position, put in the two bottom bolts and started jacking it up. I got the steeda emblem aligned correctly, the strut mount bolts to come up through the holes and I finger tightened them down. Now the problem. The top of the strut with the threading will not come through the top of the hole. It comes up till the top of it is flush with the top of the strut mount and will not go any farther. It actually started to lift the car up. I'm not sure what the problem is. When I had the strut and steeda mount out of the car I was able to quickly push down on the mount and see the strut pop up through the hole enough to get the nut on, but obviously I wasn't able to hold it in that position to get the nut on. I don't get why jacking it up wont push the strut through.

Thanks.

 

[Jeffk]

did you put the spacers that came with the Steeda mounts on the strut correctly? with lowering springs you shouldn't have to compress them at all even out of the car to get the top nut on the strut.

 

[Robstang]

I just did the exact same mods but I did have to compress the spring to get the strut nut started.

 

[Powered by Ford]

I just did the exact same mods but I did have to compress the spring to get the strut nut started.

I did as well.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Having 2 people makes this a lot easier; one person to work the jack while the other guy peers down into the strut tower hole to ensure the threaded part of the strut is coming straight up through the hole; if it is not lined up the threaded part will catch on the side of the strut tower and as you continue to jack the A arm the strut will just compress.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

Sub'd, will be installing konis soon as well

 

[2kanchoo]

As far as I can tell I had everything with the upper strut mounts lined up properly. The steeda springs lower the car 1.25" I believe. I was standing looking in the hole and jacking up the a-arm with my leg, the strut appeared to be going up the hole smoothly. It would just get flush with the top and not go any farther. I tried backing it out and back in a few times with the same result. As much as I enjoy playing "just the tip", it doesn't get the job done. I guess I'll try it again today and if no luck then go pick up a spring compressor tool, take the assembly off the car and get the strut nut started before hand.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I assume you are doing this by yourself; it works a lot better if you have someone else assist you, trust me on this!

It is not the spring as it is already shorter than the stock one, it is the alighment of the strut going up.....and I had to play with the placement of the jack to get the strut to go up straighter into the hole...I think we put it toward the middle of the A arm to assit in the line up.

Where are you located?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

You DONT need a spring compressor. If your using steeda sports and new struts there is NO reason you cant assemble everything out of the car. This is one of the easiest things to do. IMO your making it too hard. set the spring on the strut, place the upper strut mount onto the spring and press down, then start the nut, tighten it with a wrench. Easy.

 

[2kanchoo]

The spring and upper mount can't be pushed down manually when it isn't in the car. As I stated first post I could get it down far enough with both hands pushing down but I'd need someone else to put the nut on for me. No way to hold it compressed with one hand. I'll try jack placement as it's already in the car and some lube, and if that doesn't work I'll take it out and find someone to start the nut while I compress the spring. I'll post back in here with what I ended up doing and if I run into any other snags or tips for others.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

^^ agree, this cannot be done by one person; I have done 4-5 of these swaps and once you get one side in and figure out what you did right the other side will take 5 mins.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I did mine by hand, it took me all of an hour to do both side from lifting the car to setting it back down.


Greg, you can put everything together by hand outside of the car, then you slide it all in place and use the jack to hold it in place. Its so easy. If he was close id go do it.


See how the nut is barely on, but its on. Exactly how i did mine.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I understand, my challenge was being able to watch the alignement from the top of the car while using the other arm to operate the jack...was very....ummm...challengin so Luke/Jeremy helped me out.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Its not my fault your like a t-rex lol. Im just kidding man. What i did was leave the nuts close enough that i could reach them once i got it up in the holes. screw on 2 nuts and go from there. then worry about jacking it up.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

LOL....I have been callled many things in my life but that is a first!

 

[Fullboogie]

Ok - I can't help but ask whether the problem is that the strut rod is simply compressed and needs to be pulled out to make it longer? Maybe on your first attempt to jack up that side of the suspension, the rod wasn't aligned with the hole in the tower and you compressed the rod into the strut body. Make sense?

I bring this up because I changed struts on my Durango a few months ago and had this very issue.

 

[Robstang]

The only problem I had is I cant get the top nuts torqued properly because the strut will start to spin before it gets tight enough..

 

[2kanchoo]

Ok - I can't help but ask whether the problem is that the strut rod is simply compressed and needs to be pulled out to make it longer? Maybe on your first attempt to jack up that side of the suspension, the rod wasn't aligned with the hole in the tower and you compressed the rod into the strut body. Make sense?

I bring this up because I changed struts on my Durango a few months ago and had this very issue.

I was thinking that might be the problem but. A buddy came over and we couldn't get it on by hand either. I broke down and went and bought compressor tool for 40. Had to compress it pretty damn tight too. I"ll pull it all the way out by hand for the other side and see if that helps.

Edit: The parts are -

Steeda HD strut mounts
Steeda sport springs
koni sport shocks (adjustable yellows)

 

[13726548]

The only problem I had is I cant get the top nuts torqued properly because the strut will start to spin before it gets tight enough..

I had that problem as well. It took me a while to notice the strut itself was spinning. A vice grip was all I needed.

 

[2kanchoo]

So I tried extending the strut to full length, lubing the strut mount and pushing it down to get the nut on. It was a no go. Still a good 1/2" to 3/4" short to get a good few threads. Anyway I used the compressor tool and got it all put in.

My only remaining question is can one tq the top strut mounts down with the suspension hanging or does it have to be under full load? The only thing I could find was the ford service manual says to tq the lower strut mount when it is at the same as ride height.