transmission fluid mt6

[J.Kidd]

Not any more. All of the currently published Ford documentation on the MT-82 (as of September this year) calls for Motorcraft Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid. It's the only fluid listed for the MT-82 in the Owner's Manual and in Ford's Shop Manual. It's the fluid that Ford installs at the factory.

There was a time, fading fast in the haze of history, when Ford put Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid 75w-90 in the MT-82. But those days are past and today, if a Ford dealer services or repairs one of those transmissions, it will be refilled with the Dual Clutch fluid.

So, what that means is that the transmission will probably work with any gear oil that's 75w-90 or thinner down to a viscosity comparable to an ATF. However, there's no evidence anywhere that ATF itself will work.

Yup - quoted directly from a TSB 11-3-18 addressing shift effort:

"SERVICE PROCEDURE
Replace the Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid with 2.6L (2.7 qt) of Motorcraft Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 308-03A for the transmission fluid draining and filling procedure"
​

Anyone know where GM Synchromesh fits in with these synthetics? I still have 2 quarts on my shelf. Figured I'd use them in my '92's T-5 next time I change the tranny fluid.

As for the MT-82; I do notice a bit of increased effort when it is cold. I typically baby the car until she's warmed up anyway. I might just deal with the increased effort when cold knowing I have better protection when she's warmed up since it is only noticeable and not terribly intrusive.

 

[atistang]

My car has whined 1st thru 4th for the last 16,000 miles and still shifts like butter.

That fuild are you using?

 

[Wingspan]

I've had the MTL in my '12GT for ~800 miles now. My tranny shifted fine overall but had some issues when cold and whine in gears 1-4. Overall I'd say the MTL did improve the shift quality, but wasn't a cure for any of the less than desirable traits of my transmission. The whine is the same (or slightly worse) and you still have to be careful for the first few shifts on a cold day. ~300 miles after I did the fluid swap I installed the MGW shifter. Again, the overall shift quality improved (A LOT!) but none of the above traits were eliminated.

The fluid swap did improve shift quality and so was worthwhile on that basis but I wouldn't want anyone to get their hopes up that MTL is some magic cure for the issues some folks are having. It wasn't in my case.

FWIW, every manual tranny I've owned has had some whine and my '96 Mustang GT (purchased new in '96) also shifted like crap on cold days for the first few miles.

 

[J.Kidd]

I'm currently saving up for the MGW shifter as well. While overall I don't feel the stock shifter is terrible for most daily driving situations, there have been a couple instances (quick downshifts, going from reverse to first, etc.) where a "vagueness" and "softness" were felt and I did NOT like it. I much prefer and very positive engagement and more direct-feeling path to the gear. From what I have read, the MGW addresses that exceptionally well.

 

[Wingspan]

I'm currently saving up for the MGW shifter as well. While overall I don't feel the stock shifter is terrible for most daily driving situations, there have been a couple instances (quick downshifts, going from reverse to first, etc.) where a "vagueness" and "softness" were felt and I did NOT like it. I much prefer and very positive engagement and more direct-feeling path to the gear. From what I have read, the MGW addresses that exceptionally well.

The MGW is a very nice piece. Just don't judge it until it's had a chance to break in. Mine was VERY still for the first ~100 miles. So much so that I was feeling some buyers remorse. However, once it loosened up it is very nice and no way would I want to go back to the stock shifter.

Much like the fluid change though (trying to get back on topic)...it won't "fix" anything. It'll make what you have better, but don't expect any sort of problem (gear grind, nibbles, cold weather operation) to suddenly heal itself.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

ok so heres my dilemma, my car has a whine in 1st through 3rd. i only have 950 miles on it

other than that it shifts ok, i wouldn't call it fine, but i wouldn't call it bad. i thought my 03 tacoma with 100k miles shifted shitty, but after driving my mustang it feels like butter lol.

anyways, should i try some different fluid or take it to the dealer first?

i'm worried that it might be a cracked input bearing race or something serious, i don't want to mask the problem then have it rear its head after the warranty is up

Fluid swap first. That will not void your warranty. If you are worried about that, save the dumped fluid and put it back in the transmission in the small chance the new fluid didn't fix the issue, then take it to your dealer.

Troy

 

[BAKnBLK2010]

That fuild are you using?

Whatever Ford put in it from the factory.

 

[JAJ]

ok so heres my dilemma, my car has a whine in 1st through 3rd. i only have 950 miles on it

other than that it shifts ok, i wouldn't call it fine, but i wouldn't call it bad. i thought my 03 tacoma with 100k miles shifted shitty, but after driving my mustang it feels like butter lol.

anyways, should i try some different fluid or take it to the dealer first?

i'm worried that it might be a cracked input bearing race or something serious, i don't want to mask the problem then have it rear its head after the warranty is up

If you haven't taken it to the dealer to complain, then do so. Only after, if they don't have a solution for the problem, should you think about changing anything on your own.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

If you haven't taken it to the dealer to complain, then do so. Only after, if they don't have a solution for the problem, should you think about changing anything on your own.

If he has the OEM "thick" fluid in the car, their first solution will be the TSB and using their "thin" fluid.

That's not going to fix a thing.

True Synthetic or live with the grind. No way around it.

 

[BlackMamba03]

If he has the OEM "thick" fluid in the car, their first solution will be the TSB and using their "thin" fluid.

That's not going to fix a thing.

True Synthetic or live with the grind. No way around it.

This.

 

[fake]

I've had MTL in since June. During the summer, I can shift with 1 finger. Now that it is cold, the 1-2 is a bit notchy. I just shift from 1st to 3rd until it's warmed up.
I also have the JHR shift bracket, and that gave the shifter a more direct feel. I will be getting a MGW this summer.

 

[JAJ]

If he has the OEM "thick" fluid in the car, their first solution will be the TSB and using their "thin" fluid.

That's not going to fix a thing.

True Synthetic or live with the grind. No way around it.

Is "True Synthetic" someone's brand name or marketing tag line? I think this thread is the first time I've seen it. I presume it's capitalized for a reason.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Is "True Synthetic" someone's brand name or marketing tag line? I think this thread is the first time I've seen it. I presume it's capitalized for a reason.

When I say "True Synthetic" I mean an oil formulation that uses group IV & V base stocks, not group III.

Red Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple do not use group III base stocks in their top tier lubricants.

It's not a companies specific brand name, or marketing ploy. If anyone is getting duped....it's the buyers of Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, and Valvoline.

The bottles say synthetic, but you are actually buying group III (highly refined petroleum)

 

[Rob72]

I'd like to add that $15 for a quart of Amsoil, Redline or Royal Purple isn't too expensive when compared to Ford's DCT fluid. I was quoted $29 at one dealership for it.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I'd like to add that $15 for a quart of Amsoil, Redline or Royal Purple isn't too expensive when compared to Ford's DCT fluid. I was quoted $29 at one dealership for it.

WOW!

That's a ripoff. Can I get any lube with that? Ford can

 

[TheRookie65]

When I say "True Synthetic" I mean an oil formulation that uses group IV & V base stocks, not group III.

Red Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple do not use group III base stocks in their top tier lubricants.

It's not a companies specific brand name, or marketing ploy. If anyone is getting duped....it's the buyers of Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, and Valvoline.

The bottles say synthetic, but you are actually buying group III (highly refined petroleum)

Which True Synthetic do you prefer? Does one stand out above the rest?

Thanks!

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I'm an Amsoil guy. It performs second to none, and you can buy it at dealer/wholesale cost. Why pay full retail prices for Red Line or Royal Purple, yet perform no better?

Amsoil preferred customer

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

So 75w90 is whats in the mt82, no wonder it shifts notchy. What would happen if you used something much thinner? Syncromesh, synthetic atf, or synthetic motor oil?????

 

[Napoleon85]

When I say "True Synthetic" I mean an oil formulation that uses group IV & V base stocks, not group III.

Red Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple do not use group III base stocks in their top tier lubricants.

It's not a companies specific brand name, or marketing ploy. If anyone is getting duped....it's the buyers of Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, and Valvoline.

The bottles say synthetic, but you are actually buying group III (highly refined petroleum)

Not that I don't believe you (I do for the record), but can you explain how to know if a lubricant is derived from a class III, IV or V base stock? Are manufacturers required to disclose this in a MSDS or product data sheet somewhere? Has there been any scientific testing on the synthetic lubricants based off group IV and V base stocks versus lubricants based off class III stocks?

I was hoping that the Wikipedia article would be half as clear as your posts in this thread ... it's not.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Not that I don't believe you (I do for the record), but can you explain how to know if a lubricant is derived from a class III, IV or V base stock? Are manufacturers required to disclose this in a MSDS or product data sheet somewhere? Has there been any scientific testing on the synthetic lubricants based off group IV and V base stocks versus lubricants based off class III stocks?

I was hoping that the Wikipedia article would be half as clear as your posts in this thread ... it's not.

http://globalindustrialsolutions.net/base-oil-definition.php