TREMEC T56 Magnum S197 Transmission

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Also... I noticed a very obvious drivetrain vibration (really violent) and I'm assuming it's more than likely the rear end side of the driveshaft and the way I installed it. Is this common? It's a slip yolk style on the rear end


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Do you have the rubber mount on the rear transmission crossmember or the poly energy suspension?

If you have the rubber one supplied with the kit, it will tear itself apart...
 

NUTCASE

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Use a vacuum pump! Problem solved.
Auto zone has a complete kit for 35 bucks that has everything needed to bleed this system. Including brakes. And all accomplished from the master cylinder.


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I hear people complain about this all the time. It feels like everyone either refuses to try it or simply insists to me that it won't work.

The vacuum pump method has worked for me 100% of the time and I have never bench bled a slave on these cars. The only time the vacuum pump has not worked was when parts were broken.
 

JeremyH

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I hear people complain about this all the time. It feels like everyone either refuses to try it or simply insists to me that it won't work.

The vacuum pump method has worked for me 100% of the time and I have never bench bled a slave on these cars. The only time the vacuum pump has not worked was when parts were broken.


I have found the exact opposite, the vac pump is a last ditch effort for me and helps but still doesn't seem to be a miracle cure. I will never put in a dry slave again. Weeks or months of using the vac pump and pumping the clutch, jacking it up etc., vice no bleeding at all if you fill it all first. I think there is a difference from getting lucky (which would be awesome) and installing it methodically to ensure there is no chance to get air trapped in the first place.

Out of the 4 times I've done it now, my last time was the best so far and it required no vac pump, and no clutch pumping, this is what I did.

I fully filled the slave squeezing it in and out while the end was inside the bottle of brake fluid. After it seemed full I continued to do it slowly for a few more minutes at different angles to ensure all the air was out. I bolted the slave to the trans and installed it into the 90 degree plastic elbow. I filled the elbow with fluid to the brim and slightly depressed the slave a few times to ensure there was no air in the slave line or plastic elbow and fluid was up to the brim. Jack the trans up into place and filled the master cylinder with new fluid and gravity drained the line into a bucket. Once I had new fluid coming through I put a cap on the line to keep it from leaking and put the cap back on the master cylinder. Seated the trans and got a couple bolts started then uncapped the line and installed it in the elbow, again fluid overflowed some as I had it filled to the brim and I wiped it up. Finished the trans install, driveshaft, exhaust, starter yadda yadda which took a few more hours. Took it off jacks and started it up and the clutch felt amazing and drove perfect right off the bat. This is the way I will do it from now on.

Slave cylinders are fragile, like baby panda eggs lol (some of you may get that reference) But here are some pointers from my experience working on the clutch systems in these cars. First off never install a new clutch without a new slave cylinder and never install a new slave dry (this gives you the highest chance of getting trapped air). Just don't do it, don't take the chance.

Also don't reuse old fluid in your new stuff use this time during the clutch install to do a fluid flush of the master cylinder and ensure you have new clean fluid. Don't save or use old brake fluid either btw, it doesn't have a shelf life once opened and will absorb moisture and contaminates from the air. I always get the smallest bottles for this reason and return or trash what I don't end up using. Its best to do the flush right before you go to put it all back together and minimize the time the cap is off etc.

Something as simple as slave mounting surface not clean or true or too much material removed from a resurfaced flywheel can cause engagement problems. Also stay away from stiffer pressure plates in upgraded single discs clutches they reek havoc on the save cylinder as well. It seems to be a gamble. I already know I don't have good luck lol

Torque specs, follow them. From flywheel to pressure plates, floater plate, slave cylinder mounting bolts etc check and ensure all torques are good and even. Also most install directions say locktite isn't needed but I would recommend a little blue locktite on all these bolts as they rotate with the drivetrain and have a higher chance of drifting over time.

I would at least inspect the pilot bearing if not just replace it each time its a cheap part, either way ensure its clean and add some fresh grease to it.

And finally some bad habbits that do affect everything over time, don't ride your clutch, take your foot off when done shifting and try to avoid holding the clutch in every time your coming to a stop. A clutch in shift to neutral and braking and sitting in neutral will all prolong the life of the clutch and slave. Don't use the clutch to hold your self on a slight up hill either lol.
 
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NUTCASE

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Ditto on the new slave. 65k mile factory slave against a brand new high pressure plate means you'll be taking it back apart again in a few months.

This is where I come from on my opinion of the vacuum pump:

Stock clutch died, a friend of mine just opened a repair shop and a used car lot at the same time and I wanted to support him, so I purchased an Exedy mach 600 and went to him. His mechanic was supposed to be some NASCAR suspension guy but I have my doubts.

He called me in the middle of the job and asked me how to bleed the clutch. I was not sure at the time, all my other projects had a nipple somewhere. It took him 3 1/2 days to put the clutch in.

New clutch always engages on the floor. I figured it would wear in. Then 1 month later clutch does not disengage at all. I pull it apart and find the pressure plate bolts walking out. Fix it and put it back together.

I tried every trick in the book to bleed the system. I was just like everybody else and had my doubts. After trying everything else I get a vacuum pump and was done in 3 minutes.

Then the clutch killed the stock slave. I installed the slave dry, used the vacuum pump, and all was good to go.

I had one friend do his own clutch and never got it to bleed. He tried the jack up the car and pump the clutch method but he was just about able to get the car to work. He comes to me, I use my vacuum pump and he is good to go.

Then I had another who had a friend install his clutch, who had never done it before, even after I offered to do it first, come to me because the other guy could not bleed the clutch. vac pump and done.


As far as everything else written just above me +1. A lot of people don't realize that you need to apply some craftsmanship to these things to make them work right. Either that or after the 2nd stubborn bolt they stop caring and just want the job done.
 

AutoXRacer

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Geez, why are people having such a hard time with slaves...? I bench bleed mine, then pop it in the transmission and button everything up per Ford Service Manual torque specs. Never had an issue... I just pump the pedal a few times (probably 20 or so) and it firms up.


Do you have the rubber mount on the rear transmission crossmember or the poly energy suspension?

If you have the rubber one supplied with the kit, it will tear itself apart...

Also what is this about the Tremec T-56 Magnum cross member rubber mount tearing up? I've been driving mine since 2013 with loads of drag racing, track days, and daily driving with no issues.
 
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NUTCASE

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Not worth editing this far after the fact but there was another time I vacuum bled.

about a year ago my heavy ass clutch caused the plastic joint on the master with the pedal to break. Granted this is the master and not the slave, but vacuum bled successfully none the less.

All this talk of slave and master LOL. How did talking about trannies become so dirty.
 

Graham19922011

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Lol. Well the stock clutch plate fixed the issue. The one American Powertrain sent me was bent and curved and JUNK. This is a warning, do not buy there custom made clutches. To my understanding they won't warranty it either.


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Graham19922011

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Does anybody else think that 3rd and 4th are worlds apart? 1-3 is so fast but I hit 4th it falls off big time..


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cgornowich

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T56 Magnum GARBAGE

So I finally decided to get the Magnum XL 6-speed. Nice looking kit from JPC. RST clutch, all the good stuff. Bolted it into my Saleen, and ...
What a piece of junk! It doesn't rattle in neutral or anything silly, but below 2,000 rpm in 3rd or 4th it makes the loudest noise, sounds like a coffee can full of rocks ON YOUR HEAD! and forget shifting hard from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th. It's notchy and even hard to find 3rd if your above 5,000. Man, $4,700 for the trans kit and another $1,400 for the required 3.73 geared rear. WORSE $6,100 I EVER spent.

Yes, the alignment dowels were installed.
Yes, it's a brand new Ford Racing shortblock.

I HATE this trans. I shoulda just put a blowfish racing shifter support on.
 

cgornowich

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After going back through the box of parts, I did notice three small metal dowels. The were supposed to go in the flywheel. I hate to sound stupid, but could it be "My Mechanic", you know, me?
 

JUSTA3V

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If you lug the RST below 1700 rpm they will buzz. I believe it's the floater plate. Both my RST clutches have done it.

I use penzoil synchromesh. When cold it's notchy and grinds a little.

Once warmed up its a champ. I beat on it no lift shifting at the track at 6700 and I never blow a shift.
 

JUSTA3V

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After going back through the box of parts, I did notice three small metal dowels. The were supposed to go in the flywheel. I hate to sound stupid, but could it be "My Mechanic", you know, me?

Those are important to ensure the pressure plate is as close to centered as you can get.
 

cgornowich

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I understand "buzz" and this is not that. It sounds literally like a coffee can full of rocks. And it sounds worse OUTSIDE the car. And only in 3rd or 4th. !st, 2nd, 5th and 6th are silent. I guess that combined with the three dowels could be the problem. I'm just getting tired of pulling the trans out and putting it back. And this is only the second time...
 

JUSTA3V

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Ok if it truly sounds like a coffee can full of rocks.... You might have other issues inside that gearbox. How many miles on it?
 

cgornowich

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It was a brand new trans, and has been making the same noise since day one. I've had in about 2 months, and drive the car occasionally, so probably less than 500 miles.
 

skwerl

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The T56 absolutely does not like to be lugged down to 1700 rpm or lower. I always tried to keep mine over 2000rpm where it was much happier.
 

cgornowich

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Magnum GARBAGE

Stay above 2,000 rpm? I should put a Honda badge on my Saleen. With the stock 5-speed the engine would pull from 1,600 rpm, no problem. It's a roots style supercharger, torque is it's specialty. No, this Magnum is a piece of junk, what a waste of money.
 

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