What coil-overs should I buy? Poll inside

[turka]

Hello all,

Going to be finally pulling the trigger on some higher end coilovers (IMO) for my 2012 Mustang GT as my budget now allows it and I'm torn between the following choices:

1. CorteX-JRI Single Adjustable, 2005-2014 Mustang - $3,500 (Black Friday deal)

2. MCS TT1 Single Adjustable Dampers with Hyperco Springs and Vorshlag camber plates - $3,650 <-- This is the one I'm leaning towards as of now

3.Vorshlag-Bilstein TrackPro Monotube Coilover Kit - $2,500

I know that most will say it all depends on my driving needs and usage so here is what I intend to do with the car:

• Autocross for fun locally in CDC events where classes are simply sorted by weight
• constant hard backroad driving / on-ramp attacking
• Daily driving ~80 miles a day when not raining
• Maybe some Summit Point/Shenendoah Speedway hot lapping if budget allows
  

I'm leaning more towards more adjustability offered by the MCS/JRi setups because I'm not sure I would like not being able to change the damper settings since this is something I've always tinkered with before on previous setups based on how and where I was driving. I also plan on supplementing the coilovers with Whiteline sways, watts link, and better FLCA bushings shortly thereafter along with 315 section rubber all around. I already have adjustable LCA's and relocation brackets along with better rotors and pads for harder driving on the factory brembos.

All input would be greatly appreciated, but especially the input by those that are currently running one of these setups or have run them in the past.

 

[csamsh]

I'm sure the JRI are good stuff. Don't like the eye to eye rear for a mustang- eats up damper stroke. I also do not know what brand of damper the fronts on that setup are, or even if they're monotube....in the interest of not ignorantly slamming someone's product, I'll keep my suspicions on the origin of the internals to myself. Suffice it to say, I would not buy those unless I knew exactly what I was buying.

I ran AST 4150's on my mustang, most similar to the MCS from this list. I run MCS on my corvette now and have been very pleased. It's a quality product, and very customizable. Stellar ride quality, durable, etc. The next set of shocks I buy for whatever car will most likely be another set of MCS.

The bilsteins are good but not adjustable. If you can swing the MCS, do the MCS.

 

[Stephen31201]

What are you going to be doing with the car? Street, Drag, AutoX, Road Courses, DD?

 

[turka]

I'm sure the JRI are good stuff. Don't like the eye to eye rear for a mustang- eats up damper stroke. I also do not know what brand of damper the fronts on that setup are, or even if they're monotube....in the interest of not ignorantly slamming someone's product, I'll keep my suspicions on the origin of the internals to myself. Suffice it to say, I would not buy those unless I knew exactly what I was buying.

I ran AST 4150's on my mustang, most similar to the MCS from this list. I run MCS on my corvette now and have been very pleased. It's a quality product, and very customizable. Stellar ride quality, durable, etc. The next set of shocks I buy for whatever car will most likely be another set of MCS.

The bilsteins are good but not adjustable. If you can swing the MCS, do the MCS.

Thank you very much for the insight on on AST's, I just barely missed a hell of a deal on a used set on here a few months ago. I also don't think Vorshlag sells them anymore so the MCS package just seems easier to purchase / piece together.

I didn't even think of the eye to eye rear on the JRi, I had something similar before and I agree that it eats up damper stroke.

Also the MCS being rebuildable as well as modularly upgradable in the U.S. has me swaying towards those now.

What are you going to be doing with the car? Street, Drag, AutoX, Road Courses, DD?

Mostly auto-x for fun and daily duty and maybe some road course if budget allows.

 

[Mark Aubele]

Honestly if you are going to DD the setup I would go for the Biltsteins.

 

[SlowJim]

Ditto. The MCS may not even have an anti-rust coating since they are more of a race coilover.

Although, I must say it... you can buy some standard Bilsteins, lowering springs and camber plates and duplicate the Vorshlag kit for about half the price if you don't need adjustable height.

 

[csamsh]

MCS definitely have an anti rust coating....not sure why being a "race coilover" would mean a subpar surface treatment???

Agreed on Bilstein being a good choice for a DD.

 

[Stephen31201]

IMO. I have and really like Ground Control's kit. Will save you about $700 and the customer service has been great. I have never had the others so I cant say anything about them, just what I have used. Anything will be leaps and bounds above stockers or lowered springs on standard length dampers.

 

[Sky Render]

80 miles a day commuting? I wouldn't go with "high-end" dampers; they're most likely not designed to deal with the harshness of everyday driving. Of those three choices, I'd go with the Bilsteins.

 

[Mark Aubele]

IMO. I have and really like Ground Control's kit. Will save you about $700 and the customer service has been great. I have never had the others so I cant say anything about them, just what I have used. Anything will be leaps and bounds above stockers or lowered springs on standard length dampers.

Minor thread jack, but have you ever compared the Konis GC supplied compared to OTS Konis in length? I have Ground Control's race camber plates (vorshalg was out of stock, I despise these plates) and I suspect the additional bump travel they get is from the plates. I have well over an inch additional bump travel with these compared to MM plates. Only good thing about them. Might have a ton to do with how Konis have stood up to me hillclimbing and street driving the car an entire year with no issues when everyone else seems to blow them out.

 

[speedform]

Might have to agree with some of the other posts promoting the Bilstein route, if only for the fact your daily commute is quite long and depending on the spring rate you go with, may be a bit brutal day-in day-out.
It is true the ability for a rebuild is beneficial (currently running AST4100's on my '11 GT) but per their recommendations, rebuilds should occur every 12,000-16,000 miles depending on driving style (not sure what MCS or JRi's recommended rebuild schedule is). Whether they (AST) was just blowing smoke to make a buck I can't say, but at a cost of $800.00 for a full rebuild (+ shipping) this option gets pretty pricey. Something to keep in mind.

 

[Stephen31201]

Minor thread jack, but have you ever compared the Konis GC supplied compared to OTS Konis in length? I have Ground Control's race camber plates (vorshalg was out of stock, I despise these plates) and I suspect the additional bump travel they get is from the plates. I have well over an inch additional bump travel with these compared to MM plates. Only good thing about them. Might have a ton to do with how Konis have stood up to me hillclimbing and street driving the car an entire year with no issues when everyone else seems to blow them out.

Not trying to jack the thread, simply save the guy a bunch of money on something that he and prob 75% of the DD/Occasional race guy would never know the difference. IMO I would be looking for spring rate and a damper that is valved to handle it. I had the Koni Yellows with lowering springs (rode like shiz) but never blew them out, even with a lot of abuse. Again, this is just my opinion because I have never had the other setup. Take that $700-1500 you would save and buy a dang good set of tires. I do know first hand that you can only handle as well as your tires will hold, and none of that matters if you don't have seat time and cant drive a stock car to its limits first. I say get a good set of tires and use all of the $$ for track time!

 

[TGR96]

^^^ You can do a lot of track days and buy a lot of seat time for $2500+

 

[csamsh]

Well here comes the "don't buy parts just do track days" crowd....perhaps he does track days AND wants to buy parts????

 

[CobraRed]

Well here comes the "don't buy parts just do track days" crowd....perhaps he does track days AND wants to buy parts????

While hard to argue against, I have a theory this argument (over buying parts) originated in crowds like M3 owners, miata owners, porsche owners where mods are for the purpose of shaving time.

Let's face it, the S197 needs a lot of help. I've never tracked a stock mustang and never will, maybe that makes me 2-3 track days less experienced - but I don't work for MotorTrend, most stock mustangs belong on the freeway.

 

[TGR96]

Well here comes the "don't buy parts just do track days" crowd....perhaps he does track days AND wants to buy parts????

I personally like to mod my car AND do track days. My only problem is that I only have so much money to spend on both

 

[Stephen31201]

Well here comes the "don't buy parts just do track days" crowd....perhaps he does track days AND wants to buy parts????

Says the guy in a corvette that handles like its on rails in stock form. I am not saying don't buy parts, heck I bought parts before I could out drive the stock suspension. I am just saying that IMO I don't see spending $2,500-$3,500 for suspension parts that will probably never be used to its potential and probably not even close. Dean Martin took me out in my car with street tires (300 tread-wear) and kicked many a track cars asses. And that was with a mismatched set of Koni yellows on sagging lowering springs and crappy tires.
I am just saying "just when you think you are close to the cars stock potential you probably aren't". Let a very good driver take you out in your car and show you what it can do, and when you match his time, upgrade your equipment. If money is no option then I say shop away.
Until you have a lot of seat time you don't even have the ability nor knowledge (seat of the pants) to make the right spring rate choices, adjustments etc. I say this because I learned the hard way and spent a lot of money way too early.

 

[Mark Aubele]

I will never understand when people try to talk other out of upgrading their cars. Just because some take 7 years to drive the car at 7/10 on track doesn't mean everyone else is like that. Upgrade away, enjoy the car the way you want to.

And lol at the most Mustangs belong on the freeway comment. A standard Brembo GT from 11-on is pretty much right on par with an E92 M3 on track, for half the money. Give the car a little respect.

 

[ford20]

I will never understand when people try to talk other out of upgrading their cars. Just because some take 7 years to drive the car at 7/10 on track doesn't mean everyone else is like that. Upgrade away, enjoy the car the way you want to.

And lol at the most Mustangs belong on the freeway comment. A standard Brembo GT from 11-on is pretty much right on par with an E92 M3 on track, for half the money. Give the car a little respect.

To add to that, I mean ... and motherfucking Boss right here. Instant half a racecar .... driver is instant kinda retard though

 

[Mark Aubele]

Not trying to jack the thread, simply save the guy a bunch of money on something that he and prob 75% of the DD/Occasional race guy would never know the difference. IMO I would be looking for spring rate and a damper that is valved to handle it. I had the Koni Yellows with lowering springs (rode like shiz) but never blew them out, even with a lot of abuse. Again, this is just my opinion because I have never had the other setup. Take that $700-1500 you would save and buy a dang good set of tires. I do know first hand that you can only handle as well as your tires will hold, and none of that matters if you don't have seat time and cant drive a stock car to its limits first. I say get a good set of tires and use all of the $$ for track time!

I typed "minor thread jack" because of me asking you a question in someone else's thread. I wasn't saying you were jacking the thread. Just trying to see if the Konis GC supplies are shorter than my OTS yellows.