Whiteline Watts Link Failure

csamsh

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Parts fail. Searching for Fays2 failure on Google has returned results with at least one person claiming the Fays2 unit failed. Several regarding the Lakewood unit as well as both Shelby designs.

Searching for Koni failures also yields a huge list of results.

Coyote engines failing, 3v engines failing. Googling Prius breakdown returns tons of results.

While I wish Whiteline would make this bell crank out of a solid piece I think that you are being somewhat silly here as there are many more examples of non-failing units than failing ones.

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especially when people are RACING
 

Sky Render

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Everything breaks eventually. The question is whether or not the bolts were torqued properly. Has Whiteline ever given definitive answers on torque specs?
 
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NoTicket

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Yeah they updated the install guide a few weeks back. The torque spec on the retainer bolts was correct.

They have responded and are sending a new propeller, bushings, and mounting hardware.

I did test the bolts in the other remaining pivot points to ensure they were in spec and they were. The bolt is still in the threaded sleeve that snapped out, torqued down, never to be removed.

It seems to be their opinion that it was a defective weld as well.

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DiMora

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Make 10 and sell the spares as upgrades. :)

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Me too!

Hey, everyone has bad parts sometime. I will know tomorrow if we can make them and a rough cost.

I would buy one and install it just for the piece of mind if the price is right.

Don't let WL figure out you copied it and are going to sell it...

Unless it's not patented.

Whiteline can have their chance to make an upgraded piece...until that occurs...I don't think a small guy making a few examples for distribution to owners that want extra safety re-assurance and have already ponied-up for a Whiteline Watts link would warrant any legal action. If they did, that would be reprehensible...so I don't see it happening.
 

csamsh

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Whiteline can have their chance to make an upgraded piece...until that occurs...I don't think a small guy making a few examples for distribution to owners that want extra safety re-assurance and have already ponied-up for a Whiteline Watts link would warrant any legal action. If they did, that would be reprehensible...so I don't see it happening.

....and...do you think WL would go to the trouble of applying for foreign patent protection for a part like a Watt's link? I don't know what that costs/what's involved/if they'd care.
 

B2B

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While I prefer the mounting method (not clamping to the axle tube, and bushings instead of rod ends) of the Cortex/Whiteline watts link, I do like how Fays2 designed their propeller. Just wondering if there are enough room for a similar propeller with the Whiteline/Cortex watts link...
 

Roadracer350

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I'm not worried about it. A US Patent is their to protect that design. If you change a couple things about an item you can repatent it under your design. At least that's what I was told by the lady at the patent office.
 

SoundGuyDave

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Roadracer, you might want to google the fight between DefNder/Necksgen and HANS...
 

sheizasosay

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I had mine modified and put in double shear for the center pivot a while back after it had wallowed out after a day at the track. The diff cover basically had a bridge built over the propeller. I haven't had any issues since 908SSP fabbed it up. He also fabbed me up some adjustable arms to center the axle.

The watts arms might be better off with a heim derivative, but I don't know how "necessary" that really is. Probably beneficial though. When the Saleen Watts failed, the same engineers slapped on some Techo uniforms and went to making changes. One of the changes involved making the arms articulate even though that wasn't necessarily at the heart of the previous failures.

Bottom line is if you want to mod it or possibly improve it, there are folks that can get it done.
 

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sheizasosay

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What wallowed out on it? The bushing?

No. The center pivot bolt hole/threads in the diff cover. Helicoil and the billet bridge to put in double shear was the fix on that. Luckily 908SSP had a Techo unit that he had access to analyze. He wound up building his own watts link based off that, but he of course put his in double shear and then made it adjustable for roll center aswell as adjustable arms. Pretty much on par with a Griggs or Cortex type unit. That guy just does what he wants in the machining/fabbing department.
 

jayman33

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I had mine modified and put in double shear for the center pivot a while back after it had wallowed out after a day at the track. The diff cover basically had a bridge built over the propeller. I haven't had any issues since 908SSP fabbed it up. He also fabbed me up some adjustable arms to center the axle.

The watts arms might be better off with a heim derivative, but I don't know how "necessary" that really is. Probably beneficial though. When the Saleen Watts failed, the same engineers slapped on some Techo uniforms and went to making changes. One of the changes involved making the arms articulate even though that wasn't necessarily at the heart of the previous failures.

Bottom line is if you want to mod it or possibly improve it, there are folks that can get it done.

Now that is nice!
 

Roadracer350

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No. The center pivot bolt hole/threads in the diff cover. Helicoil and the billet bridge to put in double shear was the fix on that. Luckily 908SSP had a Techo unit that he had access to analyze. He wound up building his own watts link based off that, but he of course put his in double shear and then made it adjustable for roll center aswell as adjustable arms. Pretty much on par with a Griggs or Cortex type unit. That guy just does what he wants in the machining/fabbing department.

Boy has skills!!! Wish I had machines at the house to play with!! :thumb2:
 

NoTicket

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I have been thinking about doing something similar, but I don't have any idea how to go about it. Basically I want to get a 3-5mm thick metal plate that has 3 holes. 2 of the holes will be placed over positions in the mounting bracket and 1 over the center pivot. Then use 2 crush tubes between the mounting holes and the plate, and secure everything together with those bolts.

I am not sure how to get the plate made, or where to find the appropriate size crush tube. If I measure everything out and draw up a schematic, can I just give it to a machine shop and ask them to make it?
 

sheizasosay

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I have been thinking about doing something similar, but I don't have any idea how to go about it. Basically I want to get a 3-5mm thick metal plate that has 3 holes. 2 of the holes will be placed over positions in the mounting bracket and 1 over the center pivot. Then use 2 crush tubes between the mounting holes and the plate, and secure everything together with those bolts.

I am not sure how to get the plate made, or where to find the appropriate size crush tube. If I measure everything out and draw up a schematic, can I just give it to a machine shop and ask them to make it?

Probably could, but Alex (908SSP) has made his own watts and has a ton of experience and has specific experience on S197's. I don't remember what I paid, but I remember thinking it was very fair and the work was solid. Since that issue I had on the track, I paid a lot more attention to bolt torques and "un-wanted" movement on parts of my car, to include the watts. The watts has been rock solid since he fabbed my parts up and I gotta say, it's genuinely a relief.
 

Roadracer350

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I have talked to my engineer and we are going to make the propeller a little different and put it in double sheer. The side plates for the diff will be made out of 7056 Aircraft Alum and the prop will be done out of 4140CM with either roller bearings or oil impregnated bronze instead of a poly bushing but you will be able to retain the stock Whiteline arms. Let's see if it works. I'm going to use mine as a guinea pig so cross your fingers!!
 

BMR Tech

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I have talked to my engineer and we are going to make the propeller a little different and put it in double sheer. The side plates for the diff will be made out of 7056 Aircraft Alum and the prop will be done out of 4140CM with either roller bearings or oil impregnated bronze instead of a poly bushing but you will be able to retain the stock Whiteline arms. Let's see if it works. I'm going to use mine as a guinea pig so cross your fingers!!

Is the car in your avatar, yours?
 

Roadracer350

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No its a FR500GT. I have an FR500S tub in storage because it's bent. When I get time I am going to grind all the seam welds out and cut part o the cage out to fix it. I have an 06 that I'm going to transfer a lot of the parts over to it from the FR. I am trying to get everything squared away so I can put all the suspension on before thanksgiving and then do all the body and aero to it after Christmas.
 

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