Worth it to sell - NT05R?

[Riptide]

I was going to mount a set of 285/40/R18 NT05R to my enkei RPF1 and run with that. I keep reading about how a slick will get you better sixty foot times out of a clutch car and it is also supposed to be easier on the driveline. It seems like what I should have done was bought a different set of wheels (15s) and a slick/skinny setup instead.

You guys think it's worth selling these tires for a slight loss and just putting the money towards a different setup?

 

[Brezick]

While not a manual, that is what I eventually did. I ran NT05R's on some knock off 17" rims for the track, but eventually just got a race star setup.

 

[Swarzkopf]

Agreed. Run 15" wheels. They don't need to be slicks- 15" MT or Hoosier drag radials will hook a LOT harder then those 18" Nittos will.

 

[HellsBells]

I think it depends on your power level and driving ability. I ran 305/40/18 NT555Rs (not even the NT05Rs). Scared myself on the first run when the car dead hooked off the line (3500rpm launch). I let off the throttle right after I launched and still managed a 1.8s 60'.

I say run the tires until they're done and go from there.

 

[rayS197]

I would ask Greg about the Nittos. He bought them when they first came out. Didnt keep them long at all. I know he runs the MT's now. I agree with Swarzkopf's statement but also look into M&H tires. Never heard a bad thing about them. Did you get your line lock up and running??

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I used the NT05's until I put the s/c on and then found the car was over powering the tires and then went to the skinny front/15x10 rears for all around better traction and weight loss.

If you are interested I have the 15" skinny fronts for sale that are mounted, balanced, ready to bolt on and only weigh 21 lbs each.

 

[Swarzkopf]

I just don't see the combination of twin screw blower and 4.10 gears working out well with 18" Nitto drag radials. LOL

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I agree; 15x10's is what I would recommend...Ray is running a twin screw/410's with 15x10's and cut a 1.52.

 

[JeremyH]

+1 for all the responses above. lol

 

[Riptide]

Everyone thanks for the input on this it helped with my decision. Discounttiredirect is taking the unused Nittos back minus a $40 return ship fee. Not bad after sitting in my garage for 10 months. Good service IMO.

Racings over for the season here. Plenty of time to figure out what to get. Is a 15x10 really needed? It's gonna be a long while before the car makes much over 400whp. If I ever build it 550 will probably be it..

Did you get your line lock up and running??

Yep it's in. Been kinda lazy about it and honestly haven't even tested it yet other than up on stands. I'll get more serious about it when they reopen next year. Gotta save a few bucks also since slicks/skinnies gonna cost a bit plus the clutch may not even last one outing lol.

EDIT:
These look nice.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/race-sta...k-chrome-direct-drill-15x10-2005-2013/p/W514/

 

[Brezick]

I just don't see the combination of twin screw blower and 4.10 gears working out well with 18" Nitto drag radials. LOL

It didnt for 17" Nittos.

 

[Mystickeith50]

Although I agree with the above statements, Chris Cruz ran a 9.70 on a 20 inch nt05r so it can be done.

 

[Riptide]

God damn. Even cheap race stars are going to end up costing me close to 2000$ after you factor in tires, mount/balance, etc.. That is a fuck ton for something that gets used rarely.

Pay to play I guess.


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[Greg Hazlett]

Uhh....I have my front racestars for sale with tires that are mounted and balanced for $500 plus shipping...that's a lot cheaper than $2000.....let me know if you are interested.

 

[Riptide]

The 2g's was for a whole setup. Fronts, rears, tires, etc..

I appreciate the offer. I'm picky and want the black chrome ones.


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[Greg Hazlett]

Ahhh..the darkstars are nice and agree that you will pay out the nose for that setup!

 

[Riptide]

Yep. Its either them or welds. No way on bogarts those things are wayyyyy expensive.


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[Marc s]

I was going to mount a set of 285/40/R18 NT05R to my enkei RPF1 and run with that. I keep reading about how a slick will get you better sixty foot times out of a clutch car and it is also supposed to be easier on the driveline. It seems like what I should have done was bought a different set of wheels (15s) and a slick/skinny setup instead.

You guys think it's worth selling these tires for a slight loss and just putting the money towards a different setup?

I ran the NT05R's and liked them as a street tire but not as a drag tire. They handle great, drive great, wear great, but hook up just ok. I think my best 60' was in the high 1.60's low 1.70's. With 15" MT DR's, my 60's were in the mid 1.50's. With slicks, my best 60' was a 1.41. I never bought into the "slicks are easier on parts than DR's" hype. I understand the theory behind it. Drag slicks have softer sidewalls and absorb the shock. My theory is, a quick 60' and high RPM launches breaks parts. I never broke parts with a DR but I have ruined a lot of parts with a slick. With a DR, I leave around 3500 and feather the clutch out of the hole. With the slick, the engine is full throttle, on the two step, at 5500 RPM's and drop the clutch. Also, with the DR, I don't powershift into 2nd because it spins. On slicks, I powershift every gear.

 

[Riptide]

I understand what you're saying regarding the launch being softer on drag radials since you can't dump it without breaking them loose. Makes sense. Probably won't be power shifting it in my case. On slicks it would be a 5K dump at first on a stock clutch until that gets fried.

I don't absolutely have to buy a new wheel setup. I have access to a couple 17" bullitts with M&H 275/50/17 drag radials on there if I want to use them. For free. TBH if I could just get this car down into the mid 12s I would probably be happy with that and might just can the idea of blowing 2 grand on a whole new setup.

 

[Marc s]

I'm keeping the enkei rpf1 and might put a drag radial on there some day for street use. I understand what you're saying regarding the launch being softer on drag radials since you can't dump it without breaking them loose. Makes sense. Probably won't be power shifting it in my case. On slicks it would be a 5K dump at first on a stock clutch until that gets fried.

I don't absolutely have to buy a new wheel setup. I have access to a couple 17" bullitts with M&H 275/50/17 drag radials on there if I want to use them. For free. TBH if I could just get this car down into the mid 12s I would probably be happy with that and might just can the idea of blowing 2 grand on a whole new setup.

Are the new owners of the drag strip doing a good job?