How much can u bore the coyote block

BlackMamba03

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NO MORE,,,, I called Weisco and ask again about that short block and apparently the crank cost too much to build and balance so no 351 for the 5.0.

:horseshit: Why companies promote their products if they are not sure they can deliver..... Like Tremec :roflmao: T-56 Magnum

Why are you laughing at Tremec??
 

Trav4011

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Why not just offset grind the stock crank? Take it to a 2" rod journal. There's 4.6 stroker rods out there made for a 2" journal, and they'll work just fine in the Coyote.
 

KenB

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Obviously. You have to have sleeves in an auminum block.
Most modern engines dont have enough meat in them to get much from a dry sleeve without weakening the cylinder walls significantly.

What I meant was punching it out into the water jacket and putting in a new wet sleeve.



I would be more inclined to make custom pistons with the wrist pin moved up inside the scraper ring. Should provide a fair bit of added rod length.
Or, if youre already sleeving, weld on a deck plate to get some serious added length. The only problem would be that the intake manifold, exhaust, timing chain, and god knows what else, would no longer fit.

Hearing a cross plane V8 at 10k would be very cool though. I know its been far exceeded with flat plane engines, but Im not sure how high anybody has reliably reved a cross plane.

We spin our 4.6 to 10k

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 

Adam@ST

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If possible, just do a clean up hone and install a factory bore size. The spray in liners are weak. Make sure you use 2 torque plates and the mains are torqued to spec before even touching the block. The deck of the block is the weakest parts of all. There isnt much support around the cooling jackets. This block is definitely the weakest compared to all the earlier 4.6 blocks in the deck dept.
As for going with a wet sleeve..now you have to deal with sealing issues as the block moves around. People will swear by it, but they eventually leak.
Filling the block would be the next thing, but that is normally done to make the bore more rigid at the bottom and help support the mains . If you go more than a 30% fill, the block wont cool enough to drive on the street.
Ive been talking with someone to mod the deck of the block, but I'd like to see Ford build a better one. Id live with an extra 50-75 lbs for some strength.
Last but not least..the oil pump gears are exploding just like the 4.6's did. So if your gonna build, use some billet gears. Lower boost cars will be ok...10-12 psi or less. Get past that and its a crap shoot.
 

KenB

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The GT500 has a spray bore block but the Coyote still has liners


Also the oil pump gears usually go because of detonation so keep a good eye on the tune
 
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stkjock

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I would check with TSS, they make one for the 4.6/5.4L motors
 

Adam@ST

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The GT500 has a spray bore block but the Coyote still has liners


Also the oil pump gears usually go because of detonation so keep a good eye on the tune

My bad on the liner..if thas what they want to be called. They are beyond thin. On the detonation..I seen the oil pump gears break where detonation wasnt an issue.
 

Nastystang06

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How does detention break an oil pump? Just wondering because my car is down from a #8 issue getting forged but im on a budget and don't know if the new oil pump is necessary or if I need yo stud the heads and mains

Im aiming for 800ish hp one day lol

Did the hellion that made over 900 have any of that?
 

Bad Intention

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Several people that i have spoken with have used TSS oil pump gears. Better to have and not need than to need and not have. With these motors reving so high and the added stress from more power. Great lil ins policy.
 

KenB

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How does detention break an oil pump? Just wondering because my car is down from a #8 issue getting forged but im on a budget and don't know if the new oil pump is necessary or if I need yo stud the heads and mains

Im aiming for 800ish hp one day lol

Did the hellion that made over 900 have any of that?

Detonation is like taking a hammer and hitting the top of your piston as it approaches top dead center. When this happens, it's a huge shock to crank and the oil pump is driven by the crank. In this case the stock gears shatter while the billet gears can take it.

I think new gears are a good idea. But I'll stand by my statement that at least 90% of breakage is due to the tune.
 

19COBRA93

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Last but not least..the oil pump gears are exploding just like the 4.6's did. So if your gonna build, use some billet gears. Lower boost cars will be ok...10-12 psi or less. Get past that and its a crap shoot.

So far you're the only one I know of that's had oil pump problems on a coyote. Didn't you attribute that to the aftermarket balancer you had?

Also, I'm having a hard time associating broken pump gears with boost level. Pump gears break from harmonics. The cause of those harmonics can be many different things, but boost level has nothing to do with it. The oil pump is doing the exact same thing in a motor making 400hp at 7000 RPM as it is in a motor making 800hp at 7000 RPM assuming oil pressure is the same. The oil pump only knows RPM, that's it. You might be right blaming the balancer, but boost level, no way.

You're also the first I've heard suggest the blocks are weak. There seem to be a lot of dyno numbers and proven quarter miles times that suggest otherwise. Although, "weak" is a relative term. So far the blocks seem to be holding up fine to 1000-1200 crank hp. At what power level are you suggesting the blocks are limited to?
 
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beefcake

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So far you're the only one I know of that's had oil pump problems on a coyote. Didn't you attribute that to the aftermarket balancer you had?

Also, I'm having a hard time associating broken pump gears with boost level. Pump gears break from harmonics. The cause of those harmonics can be many different things, but boost level has nothing to do with it. The oil pump is doing the exact same thing in a motor making 400hp at 7000 RPM as it is in a motor making 800hp at 7000 RPM assuming oil pressure is the same. The oil pump only knows RPM, that's it. You might be right blaming the balancer, but boost level, no way.

You're also the first I've heard suggest the blocks are weak. There seem to be a lot of dyno numbers and proven quarter miles times that suggest otherwise. Although, "weak" is a relative term. So far the blocks seem to be holding up fine to 1000-1200 crank hp. At what power level are you suggesting the blocks are limited to?

Not true. There are at least 3 others that i know of that have broken the oil pump gears.

Mike @ powerhouse has broken 3 blocks as well. there is a bit of a weaker area in the water jackets above the cylinders. Those issues could possibly be tuning related, but who knows.

that said, i am 10 over and have put lots of street miles and nearly 100 1/4 mile passes this year without issue.
 

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