The questions you should be asking yourself are:
1. Is it worth spending $25k on a $10k car?
2. Do you really need 700hp (you didn't specify if that's at the crank or at the rear wheels) on a road car?
Keep in mind that if you DO want 700hp, you'll need to upgrade a boatload of other mechanical components such as the transmission (TR6060 or T56 Magnum XL), clutch (McLeod RST or RXT with billet steel flywheel), aluminum driveshaft, Moser axle shafts, suspension, chassis stiffening, GT500 brakes, cooling system, and fuel system.
Therefore I suggest you build the rest of the car first, see how much you have left out of your $25k, and spend that on the engine plus dyno tune.
By now you'll realise there won't be sufficient funds to do a Coyote swap, build the engine, and boost it. It would be more sensible to build your existing 3V with forged rods/pistons (the stock crank is fine for 700hp crank or rear wheel), refurbish the camshaft drive system and valvetrain with new cam followers/lash adjusters/upgraded valve springs/valve stem oil seals, upgrade the oiling system with a '13-'14 GT500 pump fitted with Boundary billet gears, GT500 oil pump pick up tube, GT500 windage tray, and GT500 8.5qt. oil pan. These measures will make the engine near bombproof.
Now to boosting the engine. You could keep the stock camshafts, stock intake manifold (with CMCV delete and a 62mm throttle body), stock exhaust manifolds (though LT headers better), and add an intercooled Paxton Novi 2200SL supercharger kit. I'd say you'll need something like 15psi of boost to get near 700 crank HP (610ish rwhp) or about 19psi to get near 700rwhp.
Keep in mind that you wouldn't recoup much of the $25k you want to spend on upgrades should you ever need to sell the car. Plenty of food for thought there.
