Streetability of big stalls

46Tbird

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Holy shit. If someone tells me they're running 302ci, 4.10 gears, and a 5000 stall converter in a 3900lb Ford, I start thinking of C/FX Galaxies.

bill-hoefer-1965-winternationals.jpg



It's kind of a strange combination but I hope it works well for you.
 

SSPSTANGBANGER

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Holy shit. If someone tells me they're running 302ci, 4.10 gears, and a 5000 stall converter in a 3900lb Ford, I start thinking of C/FX Galaxies.

bill-hoefer-1965-winternationals.jpg



It's kind of a strange combination but I hope it works well for you.
Yea but that was on a C6 or FMX with a 2.46 first gear giving a 10.08 final drive in first with 4.10 gear. not a 6R80 with 4.17 first gear giving a 17.10 final drive in first gear with 4.10 gear. If you put a final drive of 10.08 on a 6R80 that would be a 2.42 rear gear
 

Unreal

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A 3.31 or 3.15 would be quicker, get better gasmileage, not be as dependant on track/tires/suspension. I see zero advantage to 4.10s besides doing burnouts and lighting them up on the street.
 

Swarzkopf

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With drag radials it might be ok. But yah on street tires.. Negative. But then any 400hp car on street tires is gonna spin.


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There's spinning and then there's SPINNING...LOL
 

Grabber Blue 5.0

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You guys crack me up with your anti-4.10 sentiments with the 6R80. Did you not see my post quoting 1/4 mile ET's for naturally aspirated Coyote/6R80's from the very 1/4 mile list on this forum? 4.10's are in some of the very quickest examples. Quicker than most of the N/A 3.15 cars. 3.15's work well with forced induction and high powered, low weight Coyote/6R80's. If I were going with forced induction someday, I would have left the 3.15's.

While I appreciate everyone's grave concerns for my choice of rear end gears, I have two acquaintences with Coyote/6R80's that run in the 11's in the 1/4 mile with just tunes/4.10's/DR's at our local tracks. So, I have personally witnessed how well 4.10's work. Trust me, I've researched this topic to death and am no stranger to modding and gear swaps.

Throw a big stall converter in the mix like I have, and I believe I have the recipe for solid 11's consistently. And, this is in a heavy car (almost 3900 lbs with me in the car) with the factory paper air filter, 100% stock engine, 100% stock suspension, 100% stock exhaust, etc.
If memory serves me you were also the guy that thought that 4.56's were the perfect gear for the MT82 but could never get out of the 12's.

You strike me as one of these guys that just throw parts at a car without really thinking it through. Kind of like the guys many years ago that threw a Holley 850 cfm double pumper carb on a bone stock 302 and thought it was a perfect fit.
 

SSPSTANGBANGER

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If memory serves me you were also the guy that thought that 4.56's were the perfect gear for the MT82 but could never get out of the 12's.



You strike me as one of these guys that just throw parts at a car without really thinking it through. Kind of like the guys many years ago that threw a Holley 850 cfm double pumper carb on a bone stock 302 and
thought it was a perfect fit.


"Winning"



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Riptide

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Really looking forward to seeing how mine does vs mishri. If the 4.10 are a wash against the 3.15 then the only mod hell have over me is the boss mani. My tune should be better though. I may have to track it this year no matter. In the interests of science of course.


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FIVE-OH

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Really looking forward to seeing how mine does vs mishri. If the 4.10 are a wash against the 3.15 then the only mod hell have over me is the boss mani. My tune should be better though. I may have to track it this year no matter. In the interests of science of course.


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Boss mani def helps. Who are the two tuners?
 

Riptide

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Bbr email vs aed road tune.


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kdanner

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You guys crack me up with your anti-4.10 sentiments with the 6R80. Did you not see my post quoting 1/4 mile ET's for naturally aspirated Coyote/6R80's from the very 1/4 mile list on this forum? 4.10's are in some of the very quickest examples. Quicker than most of the N/A 3.15 cars. 3.15's work well with forced induction and high powered, low weight Coyote/6R80's. If I were going with forced induction someday, I would have left the 3.15's.

While I appreciate everyone's grave concerns for my choice of rear end gears, I have two acquaintences with Coyote/6R80's that run in the 11's in the 1/4 mile with just tunes/4.10's/DR's at our local tracks. So, I have personally witnessed how well 4.10's work. Trust me, I've researched this topic to death and am no stranger to modding and gear swaps.

Throw a big stall converter in the mix like I have, and I believe I have the recipe for solid 11's consistently. And, this is in a heavy car (almost 3900 lbs with me in the car) with the factory paper air filter, 100% stock engine, 100% stock suspension, 100% stock exhaust, etc.

I'm just going to say get some results rather than just talking about it, which I do believe you have every intention of doing. Here's a target for you that has a LOT of similarities with your car:

2013 auto/recaro/brembo/tech package. Way less converter(3C) than your 5E, stock 3.15 gear, off road X/catback, no suspension other than a Roush upper control arm, wheel/tires, driveshaft, front swaybar removed, good calibration. Nothing else, no weight removal, engine 100% stock down to the paper filter. +950DA not some mine shaft hero run.



If your theories are correct about way more gear and converter you'll tear him a new one. Get after it, let's see it.
 

Unreal

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Really looking forward to seeing how mine does vs mishri. If the 4.10 are a wash against the 3.15 then the only mod hell have over me is the boss mani. My tune should be better though. I may have to track it this year no matter. In the interests of science of course.


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Same tires? If you are both on stock tires then he doesn't stand much of a chance since it won't hook.
 

retfr8flyr

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Same tires? If you are both on stock tires then he doesn't stand much of a chance since it won't hook.

With 4.10's it wont hook well no matter what tire is on it. With the 1st gear in the 6R, it will spin and shift to 2nd gear almost immediately, then it will hook.


Earl
 

Five Oh Brian

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What's traction like on the street? I'd have to imagine with 4.10s, a 6R80, and a 5000 stall it doesn't hook at all. LOL

I run 275/40/19 Eagle F1 SuperCar tires that actually hook pretty decent on the street. I can spin the tires at will in 1st and 2nd, and chirp them hard from a roll in 3rd on dry pavement with AdvanceTrac off. But it's not like I'm at WOT all the time, and partial throttle traction can be modulated easy enough. If I leave it in Sport Mode, the AdvanceTrac works well to keep the car well behaved. Also, for those who don't have big stall converters, please know that I'm not at 5000+ rpm's all the time. Some people that I've encountered over the years have actually told me that they think a 5000 rpm stall converter means the engine can never go below 5000 rpm's, regardless of throttle position - LOL.
 

Five Oh Brian

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I can tell you this, all the gains you get will be from Mike's tune, not the gear swap...

I have asked Bama to update my current Bama tune for the 4.10's, with no other changes. I will try that tune at the track to isolate gearing to evaluate how it affects my 1/4 mile ET's. Then I'll run Mike's tune to isolate that change to my combination. I'll be sure to report back what I learn, regardless of whether the 4.10's help or hurt my ET's.

Some of you may remember when I put 4.56's in my '11 5.0L MT. I started a thread here about how they actually slowed my car down through the traps (even though they dramatically helped my 60' times). So, please know that I'm not afraid to admit when I make a mistake. So far, I really like the 4.10's in my '14 5.0L AT, though.
 

Five Oh Brian

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...the current quickest 6R80's, N/A and F/I run 3:31's or 3:15's, and that is a fact...

That's not a fact; it's simply your opinion based on a small sample of vehicles, just as my assertion that 4.10's are quicker was based on a small sample of vehicles.

What will be much more important to ME, is whether 4.10's work better with MY car's combination than the 3.15's did. Building quicker cars is about the combination! And which gears/cams/heads/etc. work best depend on the rest of the parts list on the car. You can't simply make a blanket statement that 3.15's/3.31's are best in every circumstance.
 
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