skwerl
tree hugger
With a tiny pulley, throttle body, etc. I topped out at 435hp with the M90.
With a tiny pulley, throttle body, etc. I topped out at 435hp with the M90.
Didn't realize you had already bought the TB. But $1k for a pulley and tune sounds really high. Be sure to post your results. I am really curious as to the numbers with those adds.
That would be nuts!The $1K includes the tuner, the JDM pulley, plugs, a new air filter/intake and a custom tune from JDM. However, I could see why would assume $1K would be a lot for a pulley and tune.That would be nuts!

This thread makes me think I should really re-list my Steeda intake. It works with M90's, and I'd basically give it away. I thought all those M90 guys were gone!
I hope my TVS starts paying dividends when I crank up the boost over 10 psi.
The FRPP twin 62mm is a nice piece of polished bling, but you will not get another 20-30 hp with it, not a chance, not with an M90. Maybe 5-7 hp. ( perhaps another .5 psi boost). If you install the 2.49" pulley + mating larger 90mm idler, LT's, twin 62mm TB, then chop out the vanes in the airbox lid, plugs 1 heat range colder, then a 93 tune, you should see 450-460 rwhp. Removing the vanes in the airbox lid was a JDM idea, and works, good for another 7 rwhp. But it has to be tuned for the removed vanes. No big deal. You can do any or all of this in one shot, or in stages. Do it all in one shot, then less tuning involved. LT's will also require a tune, and ditto with the smaller 2.49" pulley.
Which HE did you get with the M90? Is it the larger 18'" tall x 21" wide one..or the real small one? I assume you have the 2009 version..with the real long CAI tube going to the pass side, with blower elbow also on pass side.
If you have the small roush HE, you may well have issues in warm + hot wx. It needs the bigger HE, whether you use the oem 73mm pulley....or the 2.49" pulley.
I know this site is about top notch performance, and I love that. But I have to say... you can pick up one of these M90's for what... $2500 - $3k used? That's cheap money to get a 3V to 385hp. Then add in another $1K for the JDM stuff and that takes your 260whp to 430whp for around $4K. That seems like a great deal for the average 3V owner.... to me anyway.
Remember my intent is to stay below the 450whp rumored threshold. That said, I am not sure I need the other add ons like long tubes. In truth, I have considered skipping the pulley and tune and going with cams and a tune with the TB. That would get me around 410 - 420, but then I have to get the GT500 pumps to run them. I guess I am trying to sort the best way to get to ~430 - 450whp and keep the motor safe. Not sure on the HE size, but I will check it tonight.
Remember my intent is to stay below the 450whp rumored threshold. That said, I am not sure I need the other add ons like long tubes. In truth, I have considered skipping the pulley and tune and going with cams and a tune with the TB. That would get me around 410 - 420, but then I have to get the GT500 pumps to run them. I guess I am trying to sort the best way to get to ~430 - 450whp and keep the motor safe. Not sure on the HE size, but I will check it tonight.
HP isn't necessarily the motor killer. The tune, iats, and fueling have a whole lot to do with it. Spinning a blower to max output is never a good idea imo. Probably one of the best things you could do for more power and safety would be to run E85. It doesn't detonate and it burns cooler.
You would need to address fueling concerns with E85 but that's it. I would guess based on experience that just a switch to E85 and a tune would get you close to where you want to be. A set of take off 47lb injectors would handle it easy. Stock pump with a 8 gauge wire and bap should handle the pump side. You would be into it about $350 at most not counting the tune and tuner. You have to buy the tune and tuner no matter what you do.
^^^^ BEST bang for the buck right there.
Forget the cams + GT-500 pump. All you require is the simple 10 ga wire upgrade. Then your fuel pump duty cycle will drop like a rock.
Instead of the pulley mod, I installed the jba ceramic lt's + hi-flow cats, K+N panel filter, 10 ga wire mod, DSS-DS, FRPP twin 62mm TB, and a 94 tune. I end up with the same 5.8 psi as before. The increase in rwtq will throw you into the back seat. You would be sitting at 425 rwhp. My FPDC is 80% @ 6.2 kprm....so plenty of fuel pump capacity left. If you want more, chop out the vanes in the airbox lid, that's good for another 7rwhp.
The LT's is the one mod that made a helluva big difference. The problem with the bullitt exhaust is the 2.5" diam disc that ford welded dead center, inside the H section.....with a puny 3/8" hole dead center in the middle of the disc. Any after market H will have no disc, and a full 2.5".
By not going to the smaller blower pulley, you won't have high IAT's, not with < 6 psi boost..provided you have a half decent HE. The roush HE used on the 05-09 cars is way too small. The 2010 got the bigger 18" tall x 21" wide HE. If you use the smaller 2.49" pulley, (your boost will increase to just under 9 psi), the M90 is then operating well out of it's eff curve, generating loads of heat. Combined with the semi usless roush HE, iat's will be too high in warm wx, timing gets pulled, and power drops a bunch, and you are back to square one.
The smaller pulley only works in blower mode. The LT's, bigger TB, chopped out airbox vanes, one piece DS, 94 tune, all work in both NA..and blower mode.
My IAT's are hardly discernible between an M90 going beyond it's rated speed with the 2.49 pulley on 91 to my newfangled TVS 1.9 idling along with a 3.22+ inch pulley.
My IAT's are hardly discernible between an M90 going beyond it's rated speed with the 2.49 pulley on 91 to my newfangled TVS 1.9 idling along with a 3.22+ inch pulley.
You aren't the only one who's had high iats with the 1.9.