Battery Relocation

[scramblr]

Yes....many threads on this, I've bookmarked them all across multiple forums. There's always differing opinions and different ways to do things. I've combined a few different ways to do this along with borrowing the chart from tmcolegr with my edits and this is what I'm getting ready to do. I'm not versed in electrical...at all...so making sure what I'm doing won't literally go up in flames. The 1/0 and 4 gauge are welding cable. Am I on the right path?








Battery Box $97.40

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Battery Terminals $11

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Cable $111.52

https://temcoindustrial.com/temco-wc0149-welding-cable-4-awg-25-ft-red/ 35.06


TEMCo WC0413 Welding Cable - 1/0 AWG 25 ft - Red 76.46


Crimping Tool $22.45

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Positive Switch $122

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Ground Switch $30

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Terminal Boots

Have


Lugs $31.44

https://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Welding-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00O5BB89C/ref=sr_1_46?crid=JKLA9BZFYPG6&keywords=4+awg+3/8+copper+lug&qid=1643383419&sprefix=4awg+3/8+copper+lug,aps,76&sr=8-46&th=1 21.05


https://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Welding-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00O5B7QXE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=R34OWBOMWHZH&keywords=tEMCO+25+Pack+Tinned+Copper+Welding+Battery+Cable+Ends&qid=1643387645&sprefix=temco+25+pack+tinned+copper+welding+battery+cable+ends,aps,100&sr=8-2&th=1 10.39


Heat Shrink $10

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Power Distribution Block $11

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Fuse Holder $12.99

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Split Braided Cable Sleeves $30.00

1/2"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08887TZH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $13 4AWG

3/4"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FJ34LYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $17 1/0 AWG


Fuses $10.80

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...762ece6/littelfuse-150-amp-fuse/lit0/meg150bp $5.00 x1


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...amp-fuse/lit0/meg200bp?q=littelfuse+200&pos=0 $5.00 x1


Remote Terminals $38.00

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[JEWC_Motorsports]

Missing ground wire, or i just dont see it. Id replace them all with 0 welding wire. Everything else looks good.

 

[DBcooper]

I just went through this a few months ago, and it wasn't too bad of job. You look to be on the right track. The hardest part for me was figuring out which junction block to run and where to mount it. I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Po...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

And ran it right into the firewall where the battery used to sit using some self tappers

 

[DBcooper]

And while you're at it, upgrade your power wire from the junction box to the starter, fuse box, and alternator to some bigger stuff. You'll thank yourself later.

 

[scramblr]

Missing ground wire, or i just dont see it. Id replace them all with 0 welding wire. Everything else looks good.

Ground is in the trunk. Seen differing opinions about grounding at the trunk or running a cable to the front. Both seem to be fine and haven't seen any reason why one is better than the other. Cable is 1/0, typo on my part which is fixed now.

I just went through this a few months ago, and it wasn't too bad of job. You look to be on the right track. The hardest part for me was figuring out which junction block to run and where to mount it. I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Power-Distribution-Block-Cover/dp/B078VGKC8T/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=34FWEQ6NTBGNQ&keywords=junction+block&qid=1643749300&sprefix=junction+block,aps,134&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOEVZUldDNFVVVFVKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTcwNDAzOEs2MEU4QjlOSzBKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NjEwMzcxRjFRQkRCUEhRMlkwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

And ran it right into the firewall where the battery used to sit using some self tappers

I have that one on my wish list as I'll use it to organize additional components, i.e., fans, water pump, lights, etc. I went with this one and will be placing it in the same area.

Amazon.com: Recoil DB14 4 Way Power Distribution Block, 1 X 0/2/4 Gauge in / 4 X 4/8 Gauge Out Power Distribution Ground Distributor Block for Car Audio Amplifier Splitter (1PCS) : Electronics

And while you're at it, upgrade your power wire from the junction box to the starter, fuse box, and alternator to some bigger stuff. You'll thank yourself later.View attachment 81477

So no problem doing this, but didn't find much info on it in other threads. I believe the stock is 4 gauge already. Are you suggesting to go with 2 gauge? What are the benefits of doing so?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

8 gauge isnt very big. Ive always run 0 awg when relocating the battery or doing any kind of stereo system. In fact im waiting on cable for my amp install in my mustang.

 

[DBcooper]

So no problem doing this, but didn't find much info on it in other threads. I believe the stock is 4 gauge already. Are you suggesting to go with 2 gauge? What are the benefits of doing so?

I don't remember what the stock gauge is, but it's much smaller than 4 gauge IIRC. I'm pretty sure I went with 2 gauge when I did mine. Going bigger reduces resistance and improves the efficiency of your electrical components which in turn leads to less voltage drop under load (dimming of headlights when your cooling fans turn on, etc)

 

[scramblr]

8 gauge isnt very big. Ive always run 0 awg when relocating the battery or doing any kind of stereo system. In fact im waiting on cable for my amp install in my mustang.

For the alt? Running 0 to the Fuse/BEC and 4 to the alt.

I don't remember what the stock gauge is, but it's much smaller than 4 gauge IIRC. I'm pretty sure I went with 2 gauge when I did mine. Going bigger reduces resistance and improves the efficiency of your electrical components which in turn leads to less voltage drop under load (dimming of headlights when your cooling fans turn on, etc)

Probably 6, I need to look. I'll have a bunch of 1/0 left over, so I'll look at that. Hopefully it's not to difficult to swap out.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Midlife Crises]

Am I on the right path?

Your 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery is hot at all times. I would connect the alternator to the 1/0 wire at the junction box through a 150 amp continues duty solenoid. This eliminates the 4 gauge wire to the battery. The disconnect would have to be a dual switch to energize/deenergize the solenoid. This would leave no hot wires beyond the main disconnect when it is open.

 

[DieHarder]

I would recommend one more ground be added (separate 4 gauge wire) from a mounting bolt from the alternator to the passenger strut tower main ground. This will ensure the alternator ground reference is at the same potential as body ground.

 

[scramblr]

Your 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery is hot at all times. I would connect the alternator to the 1/0 wire at the junction box through a 150 amp continues duty solenoid. This eliminates the 4 gauge wire to the battery. The disconnect would have to be a dual switch to energize/deenergize the solenoid. This would leave no hot wires beyond the main disconnect when it is open.

Yes, this is one of the many ways I found to do so and almost went this route. However, I believe the above schematic is NHRA legal which is what I'm looking for although did not mention. I don't want to deal with extra components, i.e., solenoid, relay, etc. Thank you for your input.

I would recommend one more ground be added (separate 4 gauge wire) from a mounting bolt from the alternator to the passenger strut tower main ground. This will ensure the alternator ground reference is at the same potential as body ground.

Had not read that before or missed it. I did mention I don't know squat about electrical. Isn't the alternator grounded to the motor by being mounted to it? And the motor has a ground strap to the chassis. I'm obviously missing something here.

I am looking at following the previous advise of upgrading all the ground wires along with the starter, fuse box/BEC. I have plenty of 1/0 welding cable.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I believe the above schematic is NHRA legal

The NHRA rulebook says the disconnect switch should remove all power. Your alternator wire bypasses the disconnect switch and being connected to the battery is hot at all times. Yikes!

 

[DieHarder]

Yes, this is one of the many ways I found to do so and almost went this route. However, I believe the above schematic is NHRA legal which is what I'm looking for although did not mention. I don't want to deal with extra components, i.e., solenoid, relay, etc. Thank you for your input.



Had not read that before or missed it. I did mention I don't know squat about electrical. Isn't the alternator grounded to the motor by being mounted to it? And the motor has a ground strap to the chassis. I'm obviously missing something here.

I am looking at following the previous advise of upgrading all the ground wires along with the starter, fuse box/BEC. I have plenty of 1/0 welding cable.

It's supposed to be however the normal grounds can develop resistance over time. In my case I found that I had what appeared to be low voltage output from my charging system and thru testing found that I had voltage drops from the alternator body (ground) back to the main ground on the passenger strut tower. If you measure voltage across the battery with the car running and find that you don't have 14.5v - 14.75v DC then check for voltage drops (just take the leads and stick them) at various points on the engine; from the alternator body to the engine and also to body ground on the passenger strut tower. If your VOM indicates voltage (any voltage) you have ground issues. I had several... What you're shooting for are zero voltage drops and the full 14.75v DC across the battery. If you have that then you're done. If not, you'll want to find out why. Adding an extra ground (4 gauge) from one of the alternator mounting bolts (also ground) back to the main passenger ground took care of my issues.

 

[scramblr]

The NHRA rulebook says the disconnect switch should remove all power. Your alternator wire bypasses the disconnect switch and being connected to the battery is hot at all times. Yikes!

I certainly understand what you're saying. The rules actually state the switch must stop all electrical functions. The above schematic does that by not allowing the engine or any component to run. And I do realize the alt cable is hot at all times, but it still meets the intent of the rules. At least that's how I understand it and if I'm wrong please let me know.


8:4 MASTER CUTOFF Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is “push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.

It's supposed to be however the normal grounds can develop resistance over time. In my case I found that I had what appeared to be low voltage output from my charging system and thru testing found that I had voltage drops from the alternator body (ground) back to the main ground on the passenger strut tower. If you measure voltage across the battery with the car running and find that you don't have 14.5v - 14.75v DC then check for voltage drops (just take the leads and stick them) at various points on the engine; from the alternator body to the engine and also to body ground on the passenger strut tower. If your VOM indicates voltage (any voltage) you have ground issues. I had several... What you're shooting for are zero voltage drops and the full 14.75v DC across the battery. If you have that then you're done. If not, you'll want to find out why. Adding an extra ground (4 gauge) from one of the alternator mounting bolts (also ground) back to the main passenger ground took care of my issues.

I think I came across a thread of yours about this. I was seeing some issues with my voltage being in the 12s-13s through the Aeroforce gauge and then started getting the check charging system message. So I got a new alt and I'm back to 14-14.2. Never seen higher than that though. I'll start looking at that, but really, there's no downside to upgrading all the cables. May as well do it now.

 

[DieHarder]

I think I came across a thread of yours about this. I was seeing some issues with my voltage being in the 12s-13s through the Aeroforce gauge and then started getting the check charging system message. So I got a new alt and I'm back to 14-14.2. Never seen higher than that though. I'll start looking at that, but really, there's no downside to upgrading all the cables. May as well do it now.

14.2 v is actually not bad. Still, it's a good idea to check if you're getting voltage drops from the body of the alternator to one of the heads and from the body of the alternator to the passenger strut ground with the engine running. If you see voltage on the VOM adding a ground will ensure max voltage output.

 

[scramblr]

14.2 v is actually not bad. Still, it's a good idea to check if you're getting voltage drops from the body of the alternator to one of the heads and from the body of the alternator to the passenger strut ground with the engine running. If you see voltage on the VOM adding a ground will ensure max voltage output.

And I would do this with a voltage meter, positive to the alt and neg to the ground, right?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

We do not have a track anymore....not sure if that matters in your thought process.

 

[DieHarder]

And I would do this with a voltage meter, positive to the alt and neg to the ground, right?

Correct. Set VOM to measure DC volts. Really doesn't matter which direction for the leads. The VOM will simply indicate if there's a voltage drop or not (whether pos/neg). You can do the same thing from any metal point on the engine to a major frame ground (use the passenger strut tower ground).

 

[scramblr]

We do not have a track anymore....not sure if that matters in your thought process.

Yeah, saw that. Waiting to see what comes of it later this month. That place has been down this road before, guess we'll see. Are you familiar with any other tracks in the vicinity? Little River by Temple is the only other one I can find nearby.

And the main reason for the relocation is to make room for an expansion tank. But since moving the battery anyway, may as well do it right the first time.

Correct. Set VOM to measure DC volts. Really doesn't matter which direction for the leads. The VOM will simply indicate if there's a voltage drop or not (whether pos/neg). You can do the same thing from any metal point on the engine to a major frame ground (use the passenger strut tower ground).

Great, thank you. Now need for the weather to get warm again. Not used to the ice shit...

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I have not heard anything but speculation on the track. The current on the way out owners leased the property from a management group and haven't paid their lease payments for 6 months (again rumors) but they make sense since now its closed. Some have tried to say its the city government shutting it down but knowing most of them i doubt that is true, they are all for us gear heads. What i was told was that the plan is to doze the entire property and build apartments which makes sense with the growth happening along ih10.