alternator woes

[whitmanink]

hey guys,,
soo driving my car the check charge system light came on,,
i get 13.4 v when at idle and revved up to 2000 rpm,,
and the battery dies from just sitting hooked up to the car over night,

so i want to replace my alt,, i have an 2009 gt,, searches in google arent really helping me as i see the alternators for 05\08 year only, or 2011 and up..

ive seen on here a thread where someone used a 2010 alt ,,, is this a plug and play or must i rewire Sumthing?
id really like a plug and play ,, and i have an underdrive pulley so i guess a higher amp output would be better, ???
Amazon.com: Rareelectrical NEW 150 AMP ALTERNATOR COMPATIBLE WITH FORD MUSTANG GT EQUIPADO 2009 2010 9R3T10300DB 1042102021 9R3T10300DB 104210-2021 9R3T-10300-DB 9R3Z-10346-D 9R3Z10346D GL-960 GL960 IR IF 12V : Automotive

this is the only one i can find,, have no idea about them ,, but any leads or insight would be much appreciated

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Your 2009 model should already have the later Denso alternator that was fitted to 09-10 models. It sounds like the voltage regulator is failing so replacing that alone may fix your problem without resorting to buying a complete replacement alternator. The voltage regulator will come as part of a rebuild kit that includes front and rear bearings.

 

[GriffX]

13.5 V is not bad. Do a further test, idle, turn on all lights, rear window, if the voltage drops not below 12.9 the alternator and regulation is ok.

The battery can have an internal short cut.

 

[86GT351]

Do some additional testing. Sounds like there might be a battery with a possible dead cell or a parasitic draw on the vehicle.

 

[whitmanink]

i did use another battery out of my other car and still the same result,,

thanx dino, im gonna take a look at the rebuild kit

 

[whitmanink]

is this correct Alternator Rebuild Kit for 2009-2010 Ford Mustang Bullitt GT 4.6L M/T - Regulator, Brushes, Bearings - 11526RK - Alternator Rebuild Kits (maniacelectricmotors.com)

 

[86GT351]

is this correct Alternator Rebuild Kit for 2009-2010 Ford Mustang Bullitt GT 4.6L M/T - Regulator, Brushes, Bearings - 11526RK - Alternator Rebuild Kits (maniacelectricmotors.com)

Why not confirm the actual problem rather than guessing?

 

[whitmanink]

what would you recommend that i didnt already do?
i used a known good battery just to be sure it wasnt the one in the car,
the volts im getting from the battery connectors without battery hooked up is .034v down to .001 to 0 volts,,
nothing is staying on in the car to draw power ,, other than the clock radio ,,,

so unless im forgetting Sumthing , im pretty sure its the alt,,

unless theres another test i can do im forgetting?

 

[golkhl]

what would you recommend that i didnt already do?
i used a known good battery just to be sure it wasnt the one in the car,
the volts im getting from the battery connectors without battery hooked up is .034v down to .001 to 0 volts,,
nothing is staying on in the car to draw power ,, other than the clock radio ,,,

so unless im forgetting Sumthing , im pretty sure its the alt,,

unless theres another test i can do im forgetting?

Do you have a Shaker audio system?

 

[whitmanink]

yea ,, i got the shaker , ? what were you thinking?

 

[Pentalab]

I measured 14.75 vdc across the battery terminals, with eng on, just idling.

Put your DVM directly across the battery terminals, with eng idling, and you should see no more than 20-30 Millivolts of AC voltage. IF u are seeing a lot of AC voltage, then one or more of the 6 x diodes has shorted...which pumps raw AC into the battery, which will screw up a battery real quick like.

It could also be the regulator, but typ, when they are bad, the Vdc is way higher than it should be, not less.
IF the battery is dead the next morning, either your battery won't hold a charge....or u have a parasitic draw on the battery somewhere. You can measure any draw, by inserting the DVM, in DC current mode, between either battery lead....and the battery terminal.

IE: disconnect the negative terminal wire, and insert dvm (in DC current mode) between the negative wire (hanging in mid air)....and the negative post of the battery. Eng must be OFF.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

is this correct Alternator Rebuild Kit for 2009-2010 Ford Mustang Bullitt GT 4.6L M/T - Regulator, Brushes, Bearings - 11526RK - Alternator Rebuild Kits (maniacelectricmotors.com)

Yup. That's the one. Even if your alternator turns out not to be the problem, that rebuild kit would be useful to save in your parts box for a rainy day.

It could also be the regulator, but typ, when they are bad, the Vdc is way higher than it should be, not less.

The VDC could be higher or lower if the regulator is bad.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Alternator charging the battery with good voltage but the battery goes dead overnight. Classic diode failure symptom.

 

[dark steed]

The Shaker system is known to drain the battery. I have the fuse out of mine because it is sitting in the barn right now


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[Daniel Roberson]

The Shaker system is known to drain the battery. I have the fuse out of mine because it is sitting in the barn right now


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you know my shaker was crap from the get-go.

 

[Daniel Roberson]

Has anybody ever taken their shaker out with a radio delete kit? I couldn't hear my radio if I tried.

 

[Forty61]

Has anybody ever taken their shaker out with a radio delete kit? I couldn't hear my radio if I tried.

Isn’t removing it a ‘delete kit’ ? Lol. I replaced my Shaker headunit a while back.

 

[GtGirl07]

My battery couldn’t keep a charge, I replaced my alt thinking it would remedy my issue and NOPE. I did a bit of digging in other forums and there’s a nasty drain in the electrical where the amps to the door speakers do not shut off and by the way, my stereo cycles EVERY TIME I OPEN MY DOOR. Ford’s solution—make sure the stereo is turned OFF before turning key off. Wow. However, lol, since putting their excellent advice into motion, I haven’t drained the battery yet! Knock on wood.

 

[whitmanink]

My battery couldn’t keep a charge, I replaced my alt thinking it would remedy my issue and NOPE. I did a bit of digging in other forums and there’s a nasty drain in the electrical where the amps to the door speakers do not shut off and by the way, my stereo cycles EVERY TIME I OPEN MY DOOR. Ford’s solution—make sure the stereo is turned OFF before turning key off. Wow. However, lol, since putting their excellent advice into motion, I haven’t drained the battery yet! Knock on wood.

interesting you say that,,, mine does the same thing,, open the door and it cycles what sounds like the cds, but theres none in i think (i dont have any in) ,, its done that since day one i got it from copart,

but the fact i have a check charge system light , and the alt is only putting out 13.3 or 13.4 (cant remm)
and when the car isnt at idle ,,its still only at 13.4v,, ,,,,

so i think its a combo of alt and radio,, today i will rip the fuse out for the radio and hook up the batt and see if that stops the draining ,,
i still think the alt is bad as well tho, others were seeing 14v at idle ,, and that sounds more on par with what i should have,

 

[Pentalab]

I measured 14.75 vdc on my 2010 GT...at idle. And 14.62 vdc on my 2011 Fusion. (again at idle).

I don't get any cycling of CD's with door open, but mines a 2010 GT, which may well be different than the 05-09 cars.