Paint care for us novices..

Steedman07

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I figured I would post up the thread I made on my local club site. I am a rookie when it comes to paint care, hope this might help guys like me who use to just wash the car and throw on some wax and wonder why the paint still looked like shit..The Jeremy I speak of below is the Northeast Regional Sales Rep for Meguiar's products. He is the man when it comes to paint and how to take care of it..


Up until the Meguiar's day @ Hoffman, I was still unsure on alot of things with the paint on our cars. I am the type that needs to know who what where when and why before I get comfortable with something I know nothing about. Those that know me well, know that I am a rookie when it comes to paint care. Well, not anymore
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..I think I graduated from middle school today, lol. Now that I understand paint better, thanks to Jeremy, and understand the different Meguiar's products and when you should use them and how you should use them, thanks to Jeremy and the Meguiar's website, I feel I made a big step today. Some of you guys already know the process, but I figured I would share my day today for those in the club that havent attended any of Jeremy's classes, or who are kind of intimidated with proper paint care, like I was. Up until today, I was a wash it and throw some wax on by hand and be done with it guy.



Obviously I started with a good wash/dry with Meguiars shampoo. I skipped clay barring this time cuz Jeremy just did my car completely last September and it was only driven a few times since then.

From what I learned from Jeremy, the first step after clay barring was to inspect the whole car and look for swirl marks, blemishes and scratches. I did that and it was now ready for Meguiar's Ultiimate Compound(part # G17216)..And thanks to Brendon for letting me use the DA polisher and pads
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..This was so much easier than I always thought. apply it with the DA and wipe away with a clean 100% cotton terry cloth.(Meguiar's part #X2050) Thats it!!!
The tool with a Diamond foam polishing pad..
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And the result..No more friggin spider webs, no scratches..Wow, to think this whole time I was worried I would hurt the paint with anything other than wax/polish..this is the hood with nothing more than Ultimate Compound under my garage light..
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I ended up doing most of the car with Ultimate Compound, and it really didnt take long. Next step, with the recommendation from Jeremy, was Meguiar's Polishing Compound. (part #G18110)..I applied it by hand with a small pad and removed it very soon after with a 100% cotton terry cloth towel. Again, didnt take long, and was pretty damn easy. I did the whole car top to bottom with this step..
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A quick pic of the hood after Polishing by hand
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Seeing as I left most of my car care products in the garage over the winter and had to toss them in the garbage .....AGAIN
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..I chose to go with Deep Crystal system Carnuba Wax(part #A2216) instead of the Tech wax 2.0 for the final step in protection..I again used the DA polisher with a Diamond foam finishing pad to apply the wax.
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I let it dry for a while and removed the wax with a Supreme Shine microfiber towel(part #X2010) ..

And the result...I am very happy that I was able to do this 5 step paint care process myself. Understanding a little about paint, and understanding all the Meguiar's products was what I needed..Until the next full detail, I will use Ultimate quick detailer(part # G14422) for removing dust and fingerprints in between washings, and use Meguiar's Quick Wax(part #A1616) before a show or something..

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And the money shot..Black car under direct sunlight..No swirl marks, spider webs or scratches!!! Hell YA!!!!
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In summation, I hope this helps a few of you guys who are in my position when it comes to paint care. The club and its members should be greatful that someone with Jeremy's expertise takes time to give those classes, because they are invaluable for a rookie like me..And I hope I didnt bore the show veterans who already knew all this stuff, and MORE..
 

mikeysgt

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Bad ass man. Thanks for the details and I'm definitely going to give this a try next month! Just need to buy a da now
 

05fastblk

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any tips on claybaring? I waxed my car this weekend and noticed the hood and rear has alot of dirt and stuff really stuck on it.
 

bigwilly43729

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Nice thread. I often get confused by posts from guys who are more experienced with this kind of stuff. This is simple and straight to the point. If I ever get around to washing this thing again, I'll look into doing this.

Question: is that DA basically an angle grinder?
 

AJ

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for some serious detailing talk you guys should check out autopia.org
 

Steedman07

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Bad ass man. Thanks for the details and I'm definitely going to give this a try next month! Just need to buy a da now

Thanks man, I am reallly happy with it. Like I said I usually have Jeremy do the whole car for me, but its gratifying finally being able to do it myself.
Meguiar's has a new DA now that has cruise control. SO it will maintain you're selected speed even if you are applying a little or alot of pressure. I am getting one real soon..

any tips on claybaring? I waxed my car this weekend and noticed the hood and rear has alot of dirt and stuff really stuck on it.

Clay barring is very easy..Get a clay bar kit, wash the car completely, and use plenty of the supplied lubricant and follow directions. You will be able to feel with your hand if you clayed it enough.

Nice thread. I often get confused by posts from guys who are more experienced with this kind of stuff. This is simple and straight to the point. If I ever get around to washing this thing again, I'll look into doing this.

Question: is that DA basically an angle grinder?

Thanks..
for some serious detailing talk you guys should check out autopia.org

Ya, that is a crazy site. Some guys are completely crazy when it comes to their paint, almost obsessed. I am not at that point..lol
 
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Bingo

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Why the diamond pad and not a standard pad or waffle pad?
 

Bingo

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I dunno..I will find out though..:beerdrink:
Thanks! :beerchug2:

I've been using the same standard white pad that came with my Porter Cable orbital for probably 5 or 6 years now...aside from the fact that it's falling apart, it has different kinds of chemicals all mixed in, which I don't think is good. I'm gonna end up buying a backing plate one of these days so I can easily switch between pads, but I'd like to know the difference between pad styles before I go out and get 'em.
 

TexasKyle

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The different pad selections for the different steps is one of the things that I get confused with as well. It's really the main reason I have not attempted some heavy duty work on my paint with a DA.

I know autopia breaks down which pad to use for each step, but I like knowing "why" before I do things. Also, I don't know if I would use the same pad for a particular step if I was using a different product than what is being discussed on the demostration. Etc etc.
 

Steedman07

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Ya, definitely use 1 pad for only 1 type of compound from one brand and the same level of abrasiveness..They can be easily pulled off and on the backing plate and put back in a the sealed bag they came in. I got a bunch of info from here...

www.meguiars.com
 

Procharged06

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The foam pads are broken down by color by cutting properties. Assuming you use Lake Country pads they break down as;

Purple - aggressive cutting
Yellow- cutting
Orange - light cutting and scratch removal
Green - light cutting and heavy polishing
White - polishing
Black - waxing or glazing
Blue & Red - 1 step polishes and sealants
Gold - sealants

Then you have the wool pads which are for cutting, polishing, and finishing.

If just starting with a DA go with orange, white, and red pads. They will do most of what you need to get out fine scratched and swirl marks.
 

antonio1988

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Very nice write up for novices, easy and right to the point with no b.s.... I do detailing and I happen to be one of those people who list so much information that it turns people off from doing it themselves lol.
 

jre8806

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When you say you let the wax dry for a while, how long is that exactly and what do you look for when it is dry? I always think i let mine either dry too much or not enough, sometimes i when i wipe it its still liquid and other times as i wipe it, some flakes come off.
 

Steedman07

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When you say you let the wax dry for a while, how long is that exactly and what do you look for when it is dry? I always think i let mine either dry too much or not enough, sometimes i when i wipe it its still liquid and other times as i wipe it, some flakes come off.

Depends on the wax your using..The stuff I used, I just ran my finger through it after about an hour of drying and it didnt smear or squeak. So I knew it was pretty much dry..I believe, you can leave synthetic type waxes on over night and it will come right off andf leave no white crap all over the place...
 

TexasKyle

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The foam pads are broken down by color by cutting properties. Assuming you use Lake Country pads they break down as;

Purple - aggressive cutting
Yellow- cutting
Orange - light cutting and scratch removal
Green - light cutting and heavy polishing
White - polishing
Black - waxing or glazing
Blue & Red - 1 step polishes and sealants
Gold - sealants

Then you have the wool pads which are for cutting, polishing, and finishing.

If just starting with a DA go with orange, white, and red pads. They will do most of what you need to get out fine scratched and swirl marks.


Thanks for this. I am assuming these guidelines apply not matter which brand of products you are using.
 

Procharged06

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Thanks for this. I am assuming these guidelines apply not matter which brand of products you are using.

I don't know about other brands because I only really use Lake Country pads. All the companies usually label their pads from most aggressive to least aggresive. Just have to read the descriptions on each.
 

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