Some pypes long tube install questions.

[Mach1Run]

Got my GT up on jack stands this morning so I could look at the instructions and the car at the same time.

The instructions say to remove some stuff and I am not sure why, but it may because they are very generic instructions for like 6 types of headers.

Removal of spark plug wires - does the motor have to be jacked up so much those are in danger of being pulled?

Is there EGR or anything that needs to come off hard for me to tell?

Dipstick removal?

Coil pack removal?

When I unbolt the rack from the frame to move it forward I can see several hardlines on it, will those move with the rack or what?

Do I need to take the front wheels off to make things easier to get to or is access still blocked from there?

All I can think of so far lol.

 

[Mylilpony]

You might be able to find a kooks headers install how-to (should be the same bc from what I know, pypes are direct copies). There is one in the DIY section, I know that. If you happen to find others, let me know. I plan to buy the pypes and install them as well.

 

[usafimj]

Don't have spark plug wires so to say. Yes the motor will have to jacked up but for a different reason. Its 1 bolt and just pull up on the oil dipstick. Make sure the o-ring is still attached at the bottom. COP don't need to be removed. Only thing you'll need to unbolt is the top motor mount bolt on each side and remove 3 bolts to remove the starter to make clearance. I also removed 4 bolts/engine to motor mount bracket for more clearance. No need to removed the wheels.

Use the write-up in the How-to section. its was I used and was very easy to follow

 

[Mach1Run]

Started a little while ago with the kooks guide. Stuck on the top starter bolt at the moment. Looks like I will have to go buy a 3/8 ratchet + extensions and swivels. My 1/2 is just too fat to fit through the gap where it needs to go.

 

[usafimj]

Take the battery and battery tray out and go from the top. Use a 1/4" dr rachet. Can't remember the size. Just lay the starter on the K-member when you're done. No need to remove the wires off the starter.

 

[Mach1Run]

did you have a helper? car is on jack stands and I cant quite reach around to get it on the bolt from the top with the tray out.

 

[Top00Cat]

From my experience, I would reccomend using oem gaskets. The ones they give you are garbage. You do not want to go through the whole process again because you have an exhasut leak. I also reused as many of my stock studs and have only had to tighten them down once after the first heat cycle

 

[ReMustang05]

From my experience, I would reccomend using oem gaskets. The ones they give you are garbage. You do not want to go through the whole process again because you have an exhasut leak. I also reused as many of my stock studs and have only had to tighten them down once after the first heat cycle

+1 The OEM Gaskets are the best.

 

[Mach1Run]

got the bolt loose by getting both the motor mount and the header off. Top bolt was real easy after that.

Re-use the stock gaskets or head to the parts store for a new set?

 

[ReMustang05]

Re-use the stock gaskets or head to the parts store for a new set?

Stock Gaskets should be fine as long as they arent bent or anything. Or if you want to be positive i suppose you could pay the extra cash for something you already have

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

I JUST went through this install last weekend with my Kooks and I can assure you there is a MUCH BETTER gasket option than OEM. (not saying OEM won't work but after seeing the OEM ones against the Percy Seal-4-Good gaskets, I was glad I bought the Percy's)

http://www.percyshp.com/store/Seal-...d/Seal-4-Good-Ford-4-6L-3-Valve/prod_433.html

Topshelf quality and extremely fast shipping. Absolutely no leak and easy to use. Trust me.

 

[Mach1Run]

Passenger side is done now except for battery tray and hookin up the 02s. THE END IS NEAR! Got the driver side mount pulled no problem and the header was a breeze to get out. Dipstick tube made me a little nervous after reading how one guy busted his off flush at the motor but it finally came out. Jacked the motor all the way up and snaked the header in without having to disco the steering shaft or even loosen the rack. Head is barely bolted in now while I cool off before tightening things up.

 

[V8power]

From my experience, I would reccomend using oem gaskets. The ones they give you are garbage. You do not want to go through the whole process again because you have an exhasut leak. I also reused as many of my stock studs and have only had to tighten them down once after the first heat cycle

+1 The OEM Gaskets are the best.

I had a leak with my OEM gaskets. I went with the Mr Gasket ones that cj sells

 

[RetroGT2006]

Sweet, what is your muffler setup? I have pypes LTs o/r x and frpp/borla stingers..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBC-hpnKuIU

 

[Mach1Run]

All done, though I did almost forget the dipstick tube. Going to try the spark plug non fouler trick with the brenspeed bits and if that wont work I'll have some one weld in the cats.