Luckily I'm practicing on a bare aluminum snowmobile tunnel so it's not like I have anything to burn through. I am finding it takes a bit more careful technique to get the same results as the DA. I guess practice makes perfect!
I've already bought the more expensive Flex Rotary. Orbital for sale! :gr_grin:http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126185
The heaviest cut I've use is M105 with a Cyan med cut foam pad which gets "most" everything out but that's with me being very picky. I agree that I should try...
Up for sale is my Flex XC 3401 VRG Orbital Polisher. Polisher is in good shape. Has only been used a handful of times to polish the car. Aweseome polisher but I'm going to switch to a rotary Flex. Retail is at just under $400. Asking $260.
Link to ebay ad...
i've done a little wet sanding on deeper scratches before and have seen what it looks like to go through the clear. are there any tips or warning signs before burning too much off with a rotary?
Probably a shot in the dark here but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience between Flex rotary polisher models L3403 and the PE 14-2 150. I currently have the Flex DA but would like to give a rotary a try.
There's about $100 difference between the two rotary models without a clear...
That's def on the list of possibilities to check but any advice on how to check it? Place loads on it in various directions to check for any play? I tried doing this with the wheels on and the car in the air but they felt pretty solid.
Well I have an update for anyone that was interested. Just got the car back down on the ground last night. I feel like an idiot but I fixed the rear end shimmy, it was the relocation brackets (good call abdulla). I re-torqued everything upon reassembly and the middle bolt in the BMR relocation...
Bushings are on their way. Axle end play may not be an issue since I just realized that those measurements were with the center pin in the differential removed. :crazy: