Recent content by DieHarder

Good Day, Can anyone provide a part number for the driver's side breather tube that runs from the head to the intake tube for the supercharger? Any help is appreciated. I believe this is a 2011. Thanks, YKY

If the problem remains I'd suggest it's time for another radiator fan. GET the GT500 unit. It's a direct replacement and has 7 blades vice 6.

Have you checked out all of the Front/Rear Lower & Upper control arms? If it's moving around under acceleration I'd suspect the rubber could have perished if it's still stock. Same for the sway bars. Probably a good idea to go with some urethane replacements. Additionally, if the sway bars are...

So it's not overheating anymore? If swapping the relays made a change then you need to determine why. Was it the high-speed or low-speed? If you want to it's easy to test a relay. Using any 12v source touch the negative lead to pin 86 and the positive lead to pin 85. If the relay clicks check...

Got the air conditioner on? Switch the hi-speed/low-speed relays to see if there's any change. If not, and it still makes too much noise for your liking might be time to replace it. If so, get the GT500 fan. Think of it as preventative maintenance and besides, it's a better unit.

I'd take it back and tell them to verify/fix it as I'm sure it wasn't cheap. Hopefully, it's not making noise and no bent valves.

Ah, Ok, that's a problem. How high did the water get? Sounds like you have water (and possibly corrosion) in the cabling/connectors causing a short. That will need to be dried out before you do any additional troubleshooting. If it were me I'd start by pulling any of the cabling in the engine...

I believe you've found the likely source of your problems. At least it's usually my experience most problems are self imposed. Clear the codes then start by removing one connector at a time; thoroughly blow them out w/compressed air; check the pins; connect back up and retest. Hopefully, that...

Functionally, they're the same though the steel/rubber might be tougher overall I'm sure this version will fit/work fine. It'll definitely look better.

Not sure if this is a workaround or better method to install the rear seal. Any ideas? https://www.cjponyparts.com/rear-main-seal-repair-sleeve-mustang-1983-2014/p/HW4665/?year=2005&gad_source=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3d6256W1hQMVq7haBR2_qQUhEAQYBCABEgIybPD_BwE

Good work. Yes, VOM's are your friend. And "Add-a-fuse" is likely the cleanest installation to add "accessories."

Can't see what you're talking about... Stance is about as good as it gets. Lowering it further will only cause other problems (i.e. camber will go more negative and likely wear the outside edges of your tires in the front. Shocks look like they're compressed already so lowering it further you'll...

I bought one but haven't seen a discount code. They said it won't ship until sometime this month. After looking at the other supports most of them go for $300 so at $250 that's a bit of a break. Still, much cheaper than a new driveshaft provided the one you have is still in good shape.

Outermost area both sides of the trunk towards the bumper. The voids extend down forwards towards the rear wheels. May have to move a bit of trunk liner to get your hand in there.

The driveshaft itself is okay and I'm only using it on the street. That said, less than 1/3 the cost of a new driveshaft (not to mention labor/hassle unless you do it yourself). I'm at retirement age and in my situation so much easier not to have to fight with all of the components necessary to...