Recent content by freeloader1969

If you can do all the work yourself with a full donor car, it's easy. If you simply want to swap your engine, transmission and rear end out and call it a day, you'll need to get a 2005 or 2006 donor car. The 2005 and 2006's are very similar with the exception of one connector, C110 from the body...

Thank you everyone for the replies. I picked them up for 500 CDN on a whim and was hoping they were decent rods.

Can anyone help me identify these rods. Did a Google search but not much showed up. I know they're for a 4.6L/5.0L but would like to know HP limits and the material they're made from. Tried contacting Eagle but got no response.

Quick question, did you pull some of the tape off the wires leading up to that connecter to verify colors? If not, do so. The wires right at the connector tend to get discolored due to road grime, etc...I'm trying to find the connector/wiring diagrams for the 10 now. I have diagrams for the 06...

I have the factory electrical pinouts for a 06. If that works let me know.

Good luck with your search as they're getting super hard to find. BTW, you can convert an automatic harness to work with a standard, so you should be searching for both.

I have one you can have. Sent you a pm.

I have one. You can have it, just pay for shipping. I'm in Canada.

Probably damaged the control arm where the ball joint sits and it's out of round now. I had the same problem on my 2009 Escape after hitting a curb. IMHO, it's just as easy to change the lower control arm than it is to replace the ball joint on our Stangs.

I have the factory electrical book for a 2006. If you need anything from it, LMK. BTW, you can get a harness from a 2006 auto as well. It's very easy to convert the auto to a manual harness. I have the instructions for doing that if you need them.

I had way less routing issues on my On3 kit. What I really like about this kit though is the routing of the hot side pipes, they don't go under the control arms. As far as clearance problems, turbo kits always need some tweaking here and there. Doesn't matter if it's a Hellion kit, CX or On3...

I'm going to be ordering a set of Brisk 3VR12S or 3VR14S, probably the 3VR12S. Any other suggestions?

I'm at 25 degrees total timing at 6.5psi @3000 rpm+ on 94 octane. Timing while not under boost, I've seen as high as 40 degrees. Seem reasonable? BTW, does anyone have an SCT config file I could use for data logging? So many options to choose from that I'm not quite sure what I should be...

I will certainly do that. I'm going to pull out 2 to 4 degrees.

Ok let's put this in the book of weirder things to happen. The piston didn't hit anything as diagnosed via compression check and bore scope. What did happen is somehow the porcelain slipped out of it's spot in the plug. I can shake the spark plug up and down and the porcelain portion hides...